I hold a ball under my arm. Start be having him sit next to me. I say my command. He looks up, i drop the ball.

As soon as he knows to look at me, I take a step.
Then progress from there.

 

A target on the ground isn't what I would do. That would draw attention to the ground, away from you. Its probably the same as Cloud, but to use a toy as a target on you, the dog has to really want the toy and learn to maintain controlled focus on it to get it. It was a little over 2 mos before I ever took a step, but this is the basic sequence of what I did. It all begins with that capping in an attentive sit, and then I step into position. Later on you add drills where he finds the position.

 

A target on the ground isn't what I would do. That would draw attention to the ground, away from you. Its probably the same as Cloud, but to use a toy as a target on you, the dog has to really want the toy and learn to maintain controlled focus on it to get it. It was a little over 2 mos before I ever took a step, but this is the basic sequence of what I did. It all begins with that capping in an attentive sit, and then I step into position. Later on you add drills where he finds the position.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2axsIrtXV2Q

I'm not pretty like you to make a video

 

Reading this thread, I had a 'doh' moment. Have been trying to lure my pup into position but as she will sell her soul for play and a ball, definitely going to change my approach.

 

So the general consensus seems to be to teach the dog the "sit at my left side" position, then walking forward, and then introute pivots and finding the position? Most of the videos I've watched and articles I've read started out teaching the dog to keep it's head up and pivot on a target, then find the position, then pivot with you, and then walk forward, backward, to the sides, increase distance, etc. Has no one else done this method, or does teaching the position first seem to work better?

 

*then introduce pivots...

Won't let me edit post on my phone

 

Irregardless of how you begin movement, your dog needs to understand the position and be able to maintain the focus. I didn't exactly work on pivoting till a lot later and I did it sort of like an extension of left boxes and left circles.

 

He just expects the toy to always come on that line. I only look at him briefly here and there. I'm not looking for eye contact. Once he could focus in drive, for probably 30 seconds or so I started one or 2 steps. It was probably 6mos before I started moving out actually heeling.

 

Also doing a lot of pedestal or box work to teach rear end awareness will make the transition to movement much easier.
If I notice the dog swinging out or in I'll go back to the box and it straightens it right out.

 

Interesting. When I started luring into position with my male, I used hand placement and mirrors to control the back end.

 

We train in Mondioring, attention heel isn't required, I did it with my Mal just for fun.

My Mal had no toy/prey drive as a puppy (her prey drive turned on when she was 17 months old) so I had to use food for all of her foundation training.

I made this video a while back, it shows her progression from a young puppy to 2 years of age.....

 

I start it in pieces. I work focus first. Getting the dog to look at me in various position. Next to me, in front of me, between my legs and so on. I will sometimes use a wall or barrier to keep the dog straight. Still no movement.

In another session, I work perch work to teach some rear end awareness. Spinning around a bowl and so on. I will sometimes use a square on the ground and get the dog to pivot around that.

Then a different session, I work luring. Depending on the dog, this can be done with toy or food. Then I slowly start fading out the lure.

With some softer less drivey dogs, I have taught it with a pinch or choke chain. First starting with loose leash walking, then working the focus by popping up towards my face. When they look, big release and praise. Continue this until they get it.

This is Areli as a baby. You can see in the video, I've already started all those pieces.

I don't have any current video, but here are a couple pictures of her from a week or two ago. You can see the progression
21731241_1901168576867899_5091653692172802397_n by Jeremy Friedman, on Flickr
21462869_1901167256868031_6673750928549287646_n by Jeremy Friedman, on Flickr
21462724_1901168406867916_7945332898907319603_n by Jeremy Friedman, on Flickr
21433120_1897678903883533_2913241391083318448_n by Jeremy Friedman, on Flickr

 

I also work stupid sessions like this for their meals. This is Kimber,

 

What do you all use as a target? Or box? That's what I meant by a target- a target for their front two feet for them to pivot on. Everything I've tried seems to be too small or too big, and slides around on the grass/kitchen floor/concrete. My dog just never seems to "get" the concept of putting his front two paws on it either

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I use a rubber bowl. Like one used for grain for horses, about 12 inches in diameter. Smaller works as well.

 

Did you notice something in the different videos Tulip? We all used similar things a little differently to fit our dogs. San makes it pretty clear how she adapted to fit her dog. That may be whats giving you some problems, trying to make your dog fit into something that's not going to work for him.

 

Well that's why I was asking everyone how they trained their dogs, so I can get an idea of each little variation and see which one would work best for my dog. I'm thinking I'll probably just have to make a video and ask for advice that way. Thank you all for the responses!

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In addition to "how" you also asked "why". I haven't taught any of my dogs a focused competition heel because I have no need of that. Instead, I've taught a polite loose leash walk.

Is it something you need, due to a venue you wish to compete in?

 

Looking at Steves time line on his videos I think I may have moved too fast as well. Should have laid a better foundation for each step.

Another method for keeping the dogs attention I've seen people at the club use is spitting out the treat/reward from their mouth. Have not tried this, but it seems to work for them. Talking to someone with a mouthful of cheese cubes or hotdogs is a bit awkward though.

 

I asked why because I wanted to know what method worked for everyone's dogs. Like, say your dog is super bouncy and food motivated so used this method. Or maybe your dog is calm and not very motivated, so you used this other method.
I would like to compete him in Schutzhund. I don't know if we'll ever make it to a competition, but I enjoy a challenge in training him because I'm wanting to be a dog trainer and so I just love teaching my dogs as many things as possible and giving us both a challenge.

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A little luring with my puppy. Second time moving. I want her to get used to being in position and will clean up as she gets older

 

food a clicker and a rubber bowl. https://www.instagram.com/p/BTruR1_gBsi/?taken-by=domenik.and.mile