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rod5591

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
We want to cross the street, Our girl is on her leash at the road side, and acting OK, although she follows each car and tries to jump at some of them, finally the way is clear and we step into the street and she takes the opportunity to leap up at my hand and try to take the leash in her teeth, then starts pulling like it is a tug of war---which we play on the patio sometimes for fun, but while crossing the road, with cars coming, definitely it is no fun at all,. Is she trying to kill us both, I wonder? How do we correct this?
 
Is that the only time she exhibits that behavior? And when she does what do you do?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
well, it is like she is trying to play tug of war with the leash, but she only tries to do it when crossing the road. When she does it, if there is no car coming, I try to yank her collar up by the part of the leash she isn't tugging on, saying "no". It doesn't seem to work too well. If there is a car coming, I have to yank her out of the road by force. There is a bend in the road near us and sometimes cars driving fast can arrive in a hurry.

Where is she in her obedience training? We took her to one class but had to stop. Not much offered in this area at an affordable cost on the weekend which is the only time I can take her. She can sit, and stay, and sometimes come, but not if we are playing tug of war with her rope. Wonder if I should stop with the tug of war? But all I have read says this is OK.

This is our 2nd GSD. We had to give away our young male rescued dog a few years ago because he was too big and strong for my wife to handle. This time we got a female, whom we have raised from a pup, thinking she would be easier to handle, but she is still a handful taking her out on the leash. Rest of them time she seems to do well, and is a good, sweet dog.
 
You need to take her through an obedience course where they work on leashwork with distractions. Usually they offer them in the evenings for people who work. If you can't do it, get someone else close to her to take her. I don't usually recommend that but she must have training. Or find a private trainer who can work with you on weekends.

She could be terrified of the traffic, so before you try to cross the street with her, get her used to cars from a distance. Without observing, it sounds like you are dong too much with her before she is ready without doing the basic training. I had a dog that was scared of tall people holding things, so I took her to a pet store and let her sit from a distance and watch employees carry sacks of food. I told them what I was doing and asked if we could stand near the food section. They said of course and we did that for hours. Eventually she got to the point where she wasn't scared out of her skin when people carried bags of food or other large objects. Now she wouldn't even notice it.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
thanks for the feedback. a couple things--maybe she is afraid of the dark? she barks at the woods in the dark which she doesnt do in the daytime. and she whines and barks at the cars at night with their headlights on.

can dogs be scared of the dark?
 
Right idea, wrong conclusion. She's afraid of things that she is seeing, hearing, smelling or otherwise sensing that appear different in the dark than in daylight. Maybe different animals, scents. Cars with lights look different. She's not afraid of the dark, she seems to be afraid of cars with lights.

It may not be fear, it may be unfamiliarity. To desensitize her to cars, walk her around cars that are parked first. Then have someone turn a car on but not drive it and walk past that. Do that for a while before you expose her to moving cars. Then walk her down a street with one car driving slowly by. You will have to set that up with someone else in the car on an otherwise deserted or nearly empty street. Then when you do take her in an area during the day with cars driving by, find a place without a lot of traffic, and stand well away from the street. Once you get her used to cars during the day, then do something similar at night, but be sure to stay out of the way so you don't get hit by a car who doesn't see you. Everything should be introduced slowly and in stages to a dog who is uncomfortable with those things.
 
We want to cross the street, Our girl is on her leash at the road side, and acting OK, although she follows each car and tries to jump at some of them, finally the way is clear and we step into the street and she takes the opportunity to leap up at my hand and try to take the leash in her teeth, then starts pulling like it is a tug of war---which we play on the patio sometimes for fun, but while crossing the road, with cars coming, definitely it is no fun at all,. Is she trying to kill us both, I wonder? How do we correct this?
Looks like you got some good feedback from LuvShepherds. One thing I want to be sure of is that you are not playing tug-of-war with her leash on the patio. That was not very clear. Don't let your dog get the idea that a piece of working equipment such as a leash is a play toy or she may try to play at inappropriate moments. If she likes to jump at or chase cars, she could perceive the leash as holding her back.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Looks like you got some good feedback from LuvShepherds. One thing I want to be sure of is that you are not playing tug-of-war with her leash on the patio. That was not very clear. Don't let your dog get the idea that a piece of working equipment such as a leash is a play toy or she may try to play at inappropriate moments. If she likes to jump at or chase cars, she could perceive the leash as holding her back.
No we play tug of war with a thick rope.

Hard to avoid her seeing moving cars, as our home is right on a moderately busy street. Every time we take her out, there are cars going by and we can hear them from our house as well.
 
Take a look here:

Slip Lead leash - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums

Slip Lead leash if you read that and view the clips you'll get an understanding of how it works. If you have a basic understanding of how it's used?? I think I can help??

I'll also say you don't need to buy one you can make one with a regular leash! But you would still need to understand how it works! The real thing is easier to keep in position.

If you use the same tool I don't know if you can do it?? But I think I could explain what I would do in the same position! :)
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks!

Take a look here:

Slip Lead leash - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums

Slip Lead leash if you read that and view the clips you'll get an understanding of how it works. If you have a basic understanding of how it's used?? I think I can help??

I'll also say you don't need to buy one you can make one with a regular leash! But you would still need to understand how it works! The real thing is easier to keep in position.

If you use the same tool I don't know if you can do it?? But I think I could explain what I would do in the same position! :)
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
It seems funny--I had a 3 ft Slip lead leash from the vets from when we had her spayed--just a nylon rope. Anyway I read the links and videos and used it with Rosie on the patio--at first she didn't understand that she needed to follow me when walking, but after a few corrections she "got" it and started walking really nicely with a loose leash--no pulling, waiting for my lead. She tried biting and pulling the lease a few times also but with the short length and slippery nylon rather than longer leather it was easy to correct her on this also. Pretty amazing results Thanks for the suggestion.


Take a look here:

Slip Lead leash - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums

Slip Lead leash if you read that and view the clips you'll get an understanding of how it works. If you have a basic understanding of how it's used?? I think I can help??

I'll also say you don't need to buy one you can make one with a regular leash! But you would still need to understand how it works! The real thing is easier to keep in position.

If you use the same tool I don't know if you can do it?? But I think I could explain what I would do in the same position! :)
 
It seems funny--I had a 3 ft Slip lead leash from the vets from when we had her spayed--just a nylon rope. Anyway I read the links and videos and used it with Rosie on the patio--at first she didn't understand that she needed to follow me when walking, but after a few corrections she "got" it and started walking really nicely with a loose leash--no pulling, waiting for my lead. She tried biting and pulling the lease a few times also but with the short length and slippery nylon rather than longer leather it was easy to correct her on this also. Pretty amazing results Thanks for the suggestion.
Well ... that was ridiculously quick!! I did not even get a chance to say hey you could just use that! I'm most impressed!

Congratulations on the break through! :)
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I was too quick to claim success. Although she behaved well with the short leash on our small enclosed patio, when I take her outside she still pulls.

Crossing the road--what she does, is a soon as we step into the street, she spins and faces me, watching my face intently--sometimes grabbing the leash, sometimes not.

I bought a small bicycle tire inflater, powered by a small cylinder of CO2--got the idea from watching one of the video links--she doesn't like the hissing sound of the escaping CO2, and will drop the leash and try to move away from the sound of the gas--it stops her from stalling us in the middle of the road.

Maybe she senses increased anxiety on my part as we step into the road? We have to cross the road in a hurry since a speeding car can come around the bend at any moment.

This dog seems sharp and alert--when we are outside, she sees and hears everything it seems--except she doesn't "get" or understand cars--that they are dangerous for her.
 
OK relax, and I didn't see the pet convincer coming. Not a problem just a bit of a surprise here.

So no matter but first I think I said it somewhere?? A SLL can be a bit tricky to use, it's as much an are as it is a skill and no less than Jeff Gellman says props to those who can use one and "you can't correct a dog with a SLL!" Well ...he would know but I tend to disagree! :)

And before you run out and grab a "Prong Collar" I'll add that no less than Sean O’Shea, this guy:
FAQ - The Good Dog

He has apparently had clients struggle with the prong collar?? These days his clips have him walking a dog and he uses two leashes! A prong collar and a second short traffic leash attached to a Dominate Dog Collar?? He explains why in here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR_tfAVvFdA

Half way in I think? He explains how he changes over to the DDC for corrections?? For those that use a SLL you can do the same thing! The answer is in that clip. :) At any rate he uses to much stuff for my taste but I "assume" he has seen some clients have a problem with the Prong corrections?? I could ask but I'll just wait till some one else does for an answer.

Maybe a real SLL will be easier, in a nut shell position high, snug it down and you'll need it in kinda close and shorter than normal maybe a foot or so. If she forges ahead apply gentle pressure "sideways" towards you to put her off balance that is the basic SLL correction. And you stop (not in the street of course) when she pulls and when she relaxes then you move. Repeat as needed, they get it pretty quickly in most cases.

But since it seems the traffic thing is a big issue for you two ...you can work on that also and we'll go back to basics as it were. This time your going to show her that traffic is not a big deal by doing ..."nothing" but Sitting! :)

You'll want to find a quite safe place to observe traffic and your going to "Sit on the Dog."

Details can be found yet again ... here:
Fearful, Anxious or Flat Crazy "The Place CommanD - Boxer Forum : Boxer Breed Dog Forums

Sometimes ...less is more. :)
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Rosie is getting worse on her walks. She is now taking the leather leash and playing tug of war with it, for the whole walk, until I give up and take her home.

Thinking of getting a chain leash so she can't get a good hold on it.

On the good side, she is 11 months old, 72 lbs, with a sweet disposition, loves giving kisses, and she is less brutal in her play with out other smaller dog--she used to pound our small dog with her paws but less and less so as she gets older.

I see other GSDs out walking with their owners and they all seem focused and calm. Rosie is anything but that.

Someone suggested an ecollar in another thread. I think I probably need to find a trainer, but we are pressed for cash these days, wonder if we can find one who is not super expensive.

Still she is a good girl. She barks when anyone approaches the house--that is what we want her for. Her bark is deep and frightening!
 
Rosie is getting worse on her walks. She is now taking the leather leash and playing tug of war with it, for the whole walk, until I give up and take her home.

Thinking of getting a chain leash so she can't get a good hold on it.

On the good side, she is 11 months old, 72 lbs, with a sweet disposition, loves giving kisses, and she is less brutal in her play with out other smaller dog--she used to pound our small dog with her paws but less and less so as she gets older.

I see other GSDs out walking with their owners and they all seem focused and calm. Rosie is anything but that.

Someone suggested an ecollar in another thread. I think I probably need to find a trainer, but we are pressed for cash these days, wonder if we can find one who is not super expensive.

Still she is a good girl. She barks when anyone approaches the house--that is what we want her for. Her bark is deep and frightening!
OK don't freak out. Your dog has thrown a couple of curves at you, but that's not a cause to panic!

And yes the fastest and most humane way to train your dog is with the proper use of an E-Collar! Not 'my' thing but I know where to go for "information!" You can start "researching" that options here:

Home

And Lou is a member here and you can PM him or start a new thread if you have questions. :)

Also, Jeff Gellman at :

Free Advice – Solid K9 Training

and Jeff says "he can help people find a trainer local to them. You can contact him thru his website or Facebook. :)

His E Collar "stuff":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk_0PW5MMbo&list=PLJ7o1pCCSIaHkGV59eAY4-EkkMmUCU-tv

But I still go "old school" so I will work with the "new information" you've given!

A new leash is not an answer, teaching the dog to behave is! First, step in that process will cost you "nothing!"

The next time the dog "starts" to misbehave with the leash, it's "NO" you stop and pull straight up hard on the leash with one hand and with the free hand push down on the dogs butt to force a "Sit!"

Repeat as necessary but if you get it right "once" that should be all it takes??

Another approach and this time, we will add a new tool that will also have multiple uses is a Pet Convincer:

It's in the last two links here:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/7400865-post6.html

And another cost free but less "athletic" method than the first suggestion, is stopping the "leash crap" with a "Bonker!"

It's a small towel, wrapped with rubber bands if the dog goes for the leash ... you say "NO" and hit the dog with the "Bonker!"

Details are here:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/7410522-post2.html

You should read the whole thread to put the whole of the process into context!

What do you think??
 
Not sure if this helps, but when I started doing formal training with a balanced trainer this year, Tchai exhibited a few instances of 'leash fighting' with me. Basically, if he didn't want to do what I was wanting like heel, sit, wait etc. he would jump or grab the leash in his mouth and try to tug it out of my hands. It happened 3 times before we stopped it. I had him on the prong, so a little leash pop and/or tap on the but depending on his position. Then an immediate follow through so that no matter what, he always ended up doing what I told him to. He soon figured out that my command wasn't a request, and the leash fighting stopped. As soon as he complied, we would praise and/or give the 'break' command so that he could relax.

Can you get a trainer to show you how to use a prong? Or is she food motivated? Maybe you could teach her what behaviour you would like instead by treating her when she walks next to you properly.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
What do you think??
Thanks to you and the others for the advice. I live in So. California, I bet if I used a "bonker" on her outside I bet someone would call the cops and report me for "animal cruelty", lol.

My wife and I were looking at ecollars today.

We won't freak out, but I wish I had more time for the dog--away at work for most of the day, according to the wife the two dogs just lay round sleeping all day, its only when I come home they get active and demanding. They compete for attention like a couple of kids.

I will read the links and try to learn something.
 
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