I'm talking about a full KMODT class, not just one session of that class.
I don't know of any other dog training method that will have graduates LITERALLY walking out the door and into an AKC match and qualifying at the level of the class. ALL others that I've ever seen require quite a bit more work before a qualifying score is possible. That's not the case with KMODT classes. Do you know of another method that allows this?
Again, what is it that "they say about Ecollars" that you find "interesting?"
Lou, I got my hands slapped years ago for talking about e-collars with you, so I won't do it.
I have taken dogs through eight weeks of ordinary classes and at the end have qualified. It's not that difficult if you have a good dog, and take the dog each week. I rarely work with my dogs at all between classes -- yep, I am one of
those owners.
Personally, I think that most training methods would work with any dog. The thing is most methods do not work with most handlers. Or, because of differences with their previous dog, the handler applies the same method, the same way to the different dog and it doesn't work, the method is not ok with this dog. But they don't give it a chance really because the dog is not acting the same way the previous dog did, and every method gets adjusted somewhat to the handler and what worked with the first dog. Good positive training works with all dogs. It just doesn't work with all handlers or all dog/handler combinations. And if someone approaches it with the opinion that it won't work, it won't. The problem is not in the dog, it is in the human.
I really do not know anything about purely positive or positive only training. I think that most people have some sort of negative marker to communicate effectively with a dog. I think good positive training includes the use of negative markers of some form, typically and EH! or No! when necessary, lack of praise and redo is also a method of letting the dog know he performed a task incorrectly.
I do not like the idea the the Koehler method has no room for improvising. I think good training assesses the dog, the handler and finds the best combination of methods to get from point A to point B with the dog. I have a passel of dogs, I have put a dozen or more through titles and some with multiple titles. I do not train them like robots. They are individuals, and I adjust my training to get the best results out of each dog. That is practically impossible to advise someone over the internet when they are having a problem. This is why, find a good trainer is generally a good answer. A trainer can observe the dog and the owner and the interaction between both. Why teach a limp bit of spaghetti to jerk her dog properly and bark commands and corrections with force that is totally unnatural to her, when you can see she has the patience of Job, and can probably do better with follow through and persisitence, consistency, etc.?
It really doesn't help though, that people don't seem to consider training, or can't seem to justify/come up with the money to start training until the dog is exhibiting serious issues. Some of those might make progress with methods that take time and patience and persistence, but unfortunately, by the time some people go the trainer route, it's a last ditch effort before the dog is put down, and there is no time for the dog to progress at a reasonable rate. And, unfortunately, too many of these owners are half-accepting of the ultimate demise of the dog if this doesn't work, and are less than half-believing that it will.
And so we have dogs that have bitten three separate people and the judge feels the dog needs a new owner, the dog needs training, the training to remove bad habits and inappropriate reactions may be less comfortable for everyone once you have a dog that will bite.
Ah well, too many dogs fall into the hands of people who would be better served owning a pet rock. And nothing will change that. I will say that when I get a dog back, I treat them like all my other dogs, give them some time, then take them to classes. I don't use correction collars on them, negative markers are tone of voice, and rewards are generally praise and I get very good results. Maybe I have just not yet worked with a dog with a very bad temperament yet.