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Escaping/catch me if you can behavior typical?

7.9K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Chip18  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

I am new to the forums. Came in search of advice about my 8 month old Aussie-GSD male. He is 65 pounds, and for the most part he is well behaved for a puppy. I get a lot of compliments regarding his behavior when we are out walking so I think I am doing it right. He has typical puppy behavior that we are correcting, and for the most part everything is going smoothly. But this one thing has me stumped. I am not even sure how to correct it.

First of all is this normal puppy behavior, a training issue, or both?

We live in an apartment right now. The apartment is not big, and the dog has easy access to the front door. If someone is coming in or out he will bulldoze them to get outside. I try to keep the door locked while I am home so if one of the kids tries to get inside I have enough time to secure the dog. That does not always happen though. Once outside it's a game of catch me if you can. This will go on forever. And it is always pure luck that I catch him. He will run up to a neighbor most of the time, and they will capture him for me. Keep in mind this is a game that will last 2+ hours. In a perfect world he would not try to escape, he would come to me when I call him, or he would sit when I command him to do so and I would go and retrieve him.

He sits and stays on command indoors but once outside its like all the training I've done goes out the window. ESPECIALLY if he escapes, and is off leash. It is a nightmare. Ironically, these behaviors do not occur at the off leash dog park, but there is lots of stimuli there.

As a "human" behaviorist in my profession my first though is an ecollar so that I can use stimuli to correct it, but it is extremely controversial. My husband is totally against it, and I get the stink eye if I bring it up. So my second thought was clicker training, but I am not sure that would even phase him when he's doing this game of catch me if you can.

Any other ideas? Could this be a call for more exercise? Treats do not work. It doesn't matter what kind of treat it is. It could be a BBQ'd cat dipped in peanut butter, and he wouldn't come :D It just isn't happening with this dog in this particular situation. It is so frustrating!
 
#8 ·
I provide different forms of exercise. Also we aren't going to be in an apartment much longer, we are in the process of purchasing with land. And our apartment complex is extremely dog friendly. We even have a dog run in the complex for exercise. As far as exercise, we walk him daily, he goes to the dog park several times a week, he plays fetch, laser tag, he spends time in the dog run, he plays with the other dog. We were running laps with him, but his vet said not to do it because its bad for his joints. THAT was the best way to kill all the energy but we were told not to do it.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi! We have a wonderful GSD aussie mix too! He also bulldozed the door for a while and we fixed in just one day!!! I stood at the door (with his leash on him and in my hand) and asked him to sit stay and opened the door (a little at first) and said stay, if he tried to bolt i shut the door in his face (not to hurt him, or on his face just stopping him)and said oopsies, we did this over and over until he stayed then I said okay to release and we went on a walk... He has NEVER since that day (it's been over 2 months) stepped a foot outside without the word "okay" and my boyfriend accidentally leaves the door open all the time... I think we practiced it every time he needed to go out to potty that day. Anyways no need for shock collars! Also if your pup is a Bolter you should always keep a leash on him until it's fixed, he could really hurt himself! We play the opposite game when off leash of catch me to get a treat so that when he doesn't come and we run away he thinks we are playing and comes... He doesn't have perfect recall by ANY MEANS but he does always run towards us so it makes him easy to catch.
 
#4 ·
"Treat" doesn't always mean food when we play, it just means play, toy, food, excitement and happy time whatever he wants most... But it never works if there is a person or dog nearby... He loves THAT the most lol. Although he doesn't bolt through the door anymore so we only have off leash time on purpose...
 
#5 ·
Sounds like my Misty:) She has to be leashed or kenneled at home at all times.She does obey the wait command next to the door if I'm standing right there.We go out on state land once a week and she tears around until she's had enough after an hour or so.She zooms around the house and kennel with her best bud Samson the rest of the time.
I used to have an Australian Cattle Dog that I rehomed because I simply couldn't exercise him enough physically or mentally.He's on a farm chasing goats all day now.
 
#10 ·
That's what I am afraid of, that him being half Aussie is creating this super hero energy in him, and on top of that he's got the GSD speed so it REALLY sucks if he gets out. It is no fun at all. And we do exercise him a lot, talking like 2 hours a day of action plus a walk and bathroom breaks/walk as reward. I won't rehome him though, that just isn't happening. I am hoping once we move into a rural area we can get something for him to herd. Just right now this is a PITA. It's literally the only issue we are having with him.
 
#6 ·
Best thing I ever bought for my dog was the e-collar. the version i have (Sportdog 425S) has vibrate/tone/7 levels of stimulation. never have I gone over level 3 and that was when he was chasing turkeys into the neighbors yard and ignoring me. He plays the keep away game all the time and I play along, but once he even hears the (beep beep) or vibrate he comes running back and does not need to be shocked. Sure there are the initial shocks to correct his behavior but after he learns that he will associate the beep or vibrate (your choice) with a future shock if he continues the behavior as long as you train him this way!!! Best purchase yet and I still have my loving puppy and he is by no means a broken dog or emotionally scarred from his few shocks. Do your research...get him some more exercise...stick with training.. he will be fineeeeeeeee!!! goodluck and let us know how it goes!!:D
 
#7 ·
While the goal is training the pup to control himself at the door, the immediate need is his safety. Block his access to the front door area using a xpen or a tall baby gate (depending how the area is set up). Meanwhile, you can work on a place command and recall (on a long line) when outside.

The 2 hours you don't spend catching his escaped butt ;) you can wear his brain and body out.
 
#11 ·
Yeah I plan to get something for the door but have not found anything that will fit the area, and he is strong and will literally run right into it to knock it down if he really wants to be a naughty boy. I've been working on recall but for some reason the spot where my apt is located seems to be a big distraction for him. I know the playground, and kids across from us is one of his distractions so I do try to keep him from kids when we are outside. They tend to get him going real quick :)
 
#12 ·
I agree, safety is your priority. I have another sort of safety net suggestion (though I think being on a leash is the best idea).

When I rescued great danes, I had a fellow rescuer with a dane that had the same habit of bolting (and pretty much ANYONE would get out of the way of a great dane in a hurry!). Along with training manners at the door, she took a plastic resealable bag and kept the bag on a bench in her front yard (far from the road and close to her door). EVERY time she thought about it and EVERY time she took the dog out of the house, she would walk the dog to the bench, open the bag and give the dog a treat.

In short order, he learned going to the bench would get him a treat, he just needed mom to come open the bag attached to the bench. So the next time he bolted, rather than going for a wild chase, he galloped to the bench and waited for mom to come open the bag. She would then grab his leash or collar and walk him back home, praising the whole time (probably with gritted teeth).

Again, I think your best bet (and it wouldn't actually take that long) is to teach better manners at the door, to make sure everyone in the house is mindful of the puppy's tendency to run, and to use a leash until the behavior stops. The bench idea isn't a cure all nor should it be your first line of defense by any means, just a suggestion for when the leash is dropped accidentally and the baby gate is toppled over while the door is left wide open and children can be heard at the playground :) . However, since you won't be in the apartment much longer, and if your pup is partial to treats, having a 2nd or 3rd level safety net wouldn't hurt. :)

Another simpler possibility is to keep high doorway traffic times in mind and keep your pup in his crate during those times. Have his crate close to the door and NO ONE comes in without him being placed in his crate first. Then you can welcome someone in, or go back and forth to the car for groceries without any worries. But don't forget, every encounter at the door is a teachable moment!

All the best, congrats on your new home and land!

Remi's mom
 
#13 ·
it's a game to him!

Once had a dog that I had to start the car (loved to ride) to get her in the house...

Since learned that recall is super important.

E collar properly researched and responsibly used can be an answer.
 
#14 ·
You are right, it definitely is a game to him, his little smirk on his face and the way he carries himself, as well as his play stance as he gets within a centimeter of my fingertip before he darts of reach says it all. I think what makes me the most frustrated is that little smirk he gives me :help:
 
#15 ·
Ha!

you have 'one of those!'

Did I mention, the dog I mentioned was one of the best I ever loved?
 
#16 ·
Ugh, yes I've got one of those assholes lol. He's also really cute, which is why he's still alive after the 2.5 hour stand off.

Seriously though, I'm going to give some of these ideas a try. Not sure the treat bench will work where I am at but the other ideas people been giving have been well received.
 
#17 ·
Practice door manners every time you go in and out. he doesn't set a paw on the other side of the threshold until invited. I make this an automatic behavior with all my dogs.

Find something he likes. Every dog has SOMETHING they like. If not a treat then a toy or a physical game (mine likes wrestling) or a small flirt rag. It will be easier on you if you have things he likes. You mention the clicker. It's not supposed to "phase" him. It's to teach behavior. If you use it, please use it properly as a marker of correct behavior. Build up a recall inside and then outside on a long line and finally with distractions before ever trying to use it in a situation where the dog is focused on a keep away game.

Most of all, it sounds like he needs way more mental stimulation. Herding breeds do need a lot of exercise, but if you're giving that much exercise and he's still bouncing off the walls, that tells me he needs something to focus his mind on. Look into teaching more complex tricks, games, tracking, etc. Engage his mind heavily, not just his body.

And most of all, do whatever you can to block off the doorway, even if it means the dog ALWAYS goes into the crate before the door ever opens. The more he practices this behavior, the stronger its reinforced (and it's reinforced VERY strongly when he gets a chase game) and the harder it is to replace it with a new behavior.
 
#18 ·
Update to the catch me if you can fiasco

I ended up not using a shock collar or clicker training. I am more of a love em until they drop kind of owner so I needed something that I knew I would actually do consistently. I ended up just practicing door manners everyday with him. He has improved GREATLY. In fact the other day my 16 year old left the door open by mistake, and he did go out the door but he just sat outside of the door waiting, and when he was called back he walked right in no issues at all. I think part of it is indeed the training, but he has been getting much calmer as he gets closer to his 1 yr bday.

So yeah basically he's is a perfect dog now. There were no other major issues to remedy. I feel like I have been very lucky so far but I hear years 2 & 3 are the hard ones?
 
#20 ·
It's good that you've put a stop to his door bolting, but it's just the start. I believe that every dog on the planet needs at least two "bombproof" commands, a recall and a stationary movement, such as a sit or a down. "Bombproof" means that he'll do them on one command, no matter how far he is from you or what distraction is present. I suggest the use of an Ecollar with my methods as the best way to get there. Instructions for the use of the tool are on my site and they're free!
 
#21 ·
I live in a house, and worked on the door losing it's allure. Every time I went outside, took stuff to the bin, or checked the mail box, I would put the dog on a leash and take the dog with me. Going outside, doing it at the start 10, 15 or more times a day, lost its excitement. I would also open the door a lot, have a look outside from the doorway, and then close it again. In a nutshell, I guess I desensitized him to the front door opening.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Hmm well Lou has already chimed in here but I'll add my two cents as JQP average pet owner...well... OK slightly above average...but that's not the point! :)

E collar is only "controversial" to the "uninformed!" As I understand the fastest and most humane way to train your dog is through the proper use of an E collar!

Everything you need to know to properly use an E collar, can be found here:
How To...

You've just hear from the author so if you go that route, he's your guy!

As for me...not my thing. Maybe some day but no need so far.:) I "expect" the same behavior in my dogs "regardless" of breed!

Right now your depending on dumb luck! "Not" good enough! You need to train a behavior you want! And "The Place Command" should solve your dog/door problem!

See here:
Why the “Place” Command is So Important and Your Dog Should Know It! - TheDogTrainingSecret.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIGq_5r0DeE

Every dog should be taught that period!

More subtle is this:
Wheres my sanity: Sit on the Dog, aka: The long down
Energy - it's all about confid-tude

Again "every dog" should be taught this!

And a little more straight forward as "wick" referenced can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9w1aGQCZ2w

Not a fan of "luck" in training a dog myself! :)