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A rant... from a helper... to novice handlers

9.6K views 69 replies 27 participants last post by  dOg  
#1 ·
Handlers... hold your freaking leash tight and *consistently* tight. I can't do my job if you don't do yours. Tonight I got a punch in the eye by a muzzle, and a crappy bite after crappy bite by another dog b/c the handler wouldn't just hold the leash firmly. Makes it very *very* hard to work a dog when they have 6 feet of wiggle room at the end of the leash. Nor do I like being charged and rammed by a dog b/c you let go of your lead by accident. :help: me :help: you!

Also, tonight one dog decided instead of the bark and hold we've been working on for months, he was just gonna fully on ram me in the crotchal region for reasons none of us understand. First time I wish I had a cup.

There, I'm done :)
 
#2 ·
When I first started protection work nobody explained to me why I should be a post and when I should be a post. I wasn't told when the helper is working on grip (with pulling / pressure from the harness), when the helper is reading the dog and needs to know where the edge of the leash is, etc etc etc. It was only until I was told what the purpose of these exercises were that I started to figure out when I should let go of the leash, when I should be a post, etc.

Just saying, some of the handlers may not know what they are supposed to do and when. It always helps to maybe explain these things to them _before_ they bring the dog out. Neither the dog nor the handler is using their head while working in the beginning - everything is probably moving too fast for both. Try to explain to them, or maybe even tell them "when I say post you hold the leash, don't move, don't let the leash move, when I say give you give a little room and when I say go you let go of the leash" - or something like that, just a form of communication for the beginning - obviously you dont want the handler or dog to use these words as crutches but it might help put you both on the same page...

Also, sorry about your crutch :) hurts me just thinking about it...
 
#3 ·
That's true, but many times you are constantly telling people to be a post and they get so caught up in watching their dog that they inadvertently start moving again or better yet, holding the leash in closer and extending their arms when the dog launches like that is going to give the dog some extra oomp! More close calls or bites come from bad handlers than all the bad dogs combined.
 
#4 ·
Have seen the clueless look on many a face - many novices need to have explanations on WHAT something means...they dont come to the field knowing the venacular....they also need to watch and listen so that they learn what goes on on the field - not spend the whole time dragging their puppy around looking for admiration of same! or getting their time in and leaving to watch football!! That being said - BACK TIE !!!!!!!!! Puts it all in the helper's control!!

Lee
 
#5 ·
sounds like you really got beat up tonite!!! I feel your rant:)
 
#6 · (Edited)
Maybe you should channel Steve House's personality on for a bit, get your handlers in line! JK...
Hope your not too broken, and you let the handlers know how important their end of the leash is.
 
#8 ·
yes explanation can help, but come one. Most can't handle hold the leash and don't move! How are you expecting them to grasp anything else :). It makes me laugh all the times I've heard it myself and have said it to others, POST, DON"T MOVE and as soon as you start working, their feet are moving.

It would be more funny it it wasn't more dangerous.
 
#11 ·
Have you ever explained to them a proper way to hold a leash for protection work? Because trust me, most girls my size can't hold back an 85 pound dog, and I definitely couldn't until I was shown the proper way to "post" yourself. I used to stand there with the leash in both hands with both arms extended and I am just not strong enough to hold him that way, as are many people.
 
#9 ·
I also think it's safer to back-tie until the handler can fully understand the concept on how to work the line during protection. That way neither the helper or the dog gets screwed over in the work because it's all in the control of the helper.

I had no idea what I was doing when I first started and no one ever explained to me how I (a 17 year old girl) was supposed to correctly post myself to hold back my 85 pound dog. Needless to say, I moved around quite a bit, because its awful difficult to not move when you're holding the leash with two hands completely extended :eek:

The first time I was ever told otherwise was at my last club's fall trial almost a year after I had started in Schutzhund. The judge was doing some helper work after the trial had ended and I brought my dog out. He told me to be a post or he'd whip me.

Guess who got whipped. :p But seriously he was the first one to explain to me a better way to hold my leash, and had me wrap around and pretty much sit on it, and it made a world of difference (obviously). Three years later, I will approach any stranger working their dog who is holding the leash incorrectly At at club, trial, etc, and I'll show them how I was told to hold the leash. If I can hold back my dog, then they can definitely hold theirs. And all the time, I'm told that they were never given that advice before.

So just make sure you're not assuming that the handlers all know exactly what to do. It's scary enough already, being new to the sport, and a lot of people aren't being properly informed before they start.
 
#46 ·
Good post and ...*sigh* trust me it's not any easier when you're 48 years old.

:eek:

I at least have TONS *pun intended* of experience handling 1000 pound plus horses so I knew how to center myself and hold on fairly well......but the nuances of it all - interaction between dog, handler, helper.....still a work in progress for sure.

Hopefully we'll get to keep working on it again soon though.....



I also think it's safer to back-tie until the handler can fully understand the concept on how to work the line during protection. That way neither the helper or the dog gets screwed over in the work because it's all in the control of the helper.

I had no idea what I was doing when I first started and no one ever explained to me how I (a 17 year old girl) was supposed to correctly post myself to hold back my 85 pound dog. Needless to say, I moved around quite a bit, because its awful difficult to not move when you're holding the leash with two hands completely extended :eek:

The first time I was ever told otherwise was at my last club's fall trial almost a year after I had started in Schutzhund. The judge was doing some helper work after the trial had ended and I brought my dog out. He told me to be a post or he'd whip me.

Guess who got whipped. :p But seriously he was the first one to explain to me a better way to hold my leash, and had me wrap around and pretty much sit on it, and it made a world of difference (obviously). Three years later, I will approach any stranger working their dog who is holding the leash incorrectly At at club, trial, etc, and I'll show them how I was told to hold the leash. If I can hold back my dog, then they can definitely hold theirs. And all the time, I'm told that they were never given that advice before.

So just make sure you're not assuming that the handlers all know exactly what to do. It's scary enough already, being new to the sport, and a lot of people aren't being properly informed before they start.
 
#12 ·
A complaint from helpers the world over. And a legitimate one for sure. It's dangerous and it makes for bad training.

But at the same time, like everything else, "being a post" isn't something that comes naturally. Sometimes people forget or are mesmerized by watching the work and not paying attention, but very often they just don't know *how* to properly post a dog. None of us were good posts when we first started out as newbies. We had to learn.

With poor post technique, a 50lb Mal could pull over a linebacker. And with proper post technique a 100lb granny could hold back a 150lb Rottie. So make sure your newbies aren't just told to "be a post" and constantly yelled at that "posts don't move!" but show them how to do it properly and let them practice the technique, off the field, without a dog. And if it's someone who still can't master it after lots of teaching and practice, then that's what tie out poles/trees are for. ;)
 
#13 ·
At our club, it is my job, or the VP's job to explain to newbies what is expected of them and how it relates to the training. (Why we want the dog to "miss" the wedge or whatever). Since most people getting started don't have their own gear, we have a 10 foot biothane line that we let them borrow. We have tied a knot in the line at a certain distance and show the person to hold the line behind their body and to hold the knot in their hand and that the hand should stay at a certain place on their body. Most people do just fine when they are given an exact thing to do. For those that seem to have trouble following the instruction, we have one of the other helpers or other handler either take the line from them or go stand with them on the field to remind them of what is expected and how to do it. Of course, the experienced handler's real reason to go out onto the field is to protect our helper! They are a valuable commodity that we don't want abused :D.
 
#16 ·
So while we are discussing proper posting technique... I still feel like I haven't gotten it down 100%. And I'm not small (6'1" and 220)... Usually I go left forward like a boxing stance and use my right hand to sink the leash into my hip behind me, weight on the back leg. Still I feel like I am not 100% rigid, although none of the helpers have ever complained... I've also seen some people do the around the butt hold. So, whats the "proper" way?
 
#20 · (Edited)
I'm 5'7" 140lb female and I either use a prong on a live ring or I "sit" on the line. Honestly though if we're doing some kind of work that involves a lot of line restraint I just back tie the dog. You can always back tie the dog AND have a second line that you are controlling with more subtlety which is my preference since I think safety is important but so is learning good line handling. You'll never get good at it if you don't concentrate on it. My Nikon has never been that hard to handle b/c he tends to just work out at the end of the line without any of the spinning/flipping or backing up and then lunging forward and pretty much has always worked on a prong collar. Pan doesn't spin/flip either but he used to do the backing up and then rearing forward like below, obviously an awkward moment! And I'm guessing those tears on the scratch pants are results of poor "posting"!
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I'll admit, when I'm restraining my dog and the helper offers a real bite I do let up a bit and let the dog take the bite. Every once in a while we mess up, like there's a miss that was too close, or I didn't let up when I should have, or I did let up when I shouldn't have. Luckily we're at the point where whoever is at fault immediately apologizes and laughs it off.

Often I line handle for a friend who is a featherweight and has a large, super strong dog. They're just no match physically and unfortunately we sometimes have control and overloading issues with him so it takes two people to work him safely and teach him the right lessons.
 
#18 · (Edited)
My pup was big(13 mos here) and my posting was not what it should have been. I didn't let go of the line however....
Image

The same session the helper went down, too...so maybe gravity was messing us up(or the gopher holes)?
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Karlo had a blast that day!
 
#21 ·
Oh it's fully explained beforehand and demo'd. I constantly fix how people are holding leashes only for them to revert back within 5 minutes, or walk with me as I'm putting tension on the dog, or keeping the leash tight when I'm trying to get a regrip. Sometimes itd be much more productive if I just had someone else handle the dog lol.
 
#23 ·
I remember reading an interview many years ago from a helper that stated when a helper gets bitten it is their fault. They did not take the necessary precautions to prevent the bites (I can already hear the arguments :) ). This helper got bitten one time because they went against their better judgment and didn't back tie a dog they didn't know whose handler they had never met before. Except in a trial situation where the helper has little control over the situation, for the most part helpers should not be getting bitten if they are careful (yes, stuff can happen). If a handler can't handle their dog then put the dog on the pole or back tie them for your own safety and for the benefit of the dog. I have stepped in and helped a few handlers (been an anchor for them until they learn), but they still must handle their own dog.

When I started I was taught to handle my dog and expected to handle my dog. I was also reminded countless times during a session if I was wrong. I learned quickly. :) I lock my left hand on my left hip, lean my weight back over my left leg and take the brunt of much of the pulling on my right leg (and right arm). Even so I could not hold Donovan on a flat collar anymore. My girls, yes, but not him.
 
#24 ·
Gabor is the training director and training/teaching helper. We do explain, ensure that everyone knows what equipment to have and use, show ahead of time and go slow initially to ensure that people understand in the beginning. People watch other handlers, so they understand from both sides what it looks like.

We are pretty standardized on what collars and leashes to use.

We have a lot of new people and so far, no issue with the leash handling. And we have a few people that have strong young males that are not big handlers. One started P90x even……… J
 
#25 ·
I am definitely a novice handler, so...

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Honestly, though. I am hoping to get proper instruction on how to hold that leash. My 8 month old pup Hunter is getting quite strong and I have a hard time holding him back when he is in drive. I know there is a certain way to stand and hold the leash, I just need to be taught how. Not a big deal yet though since I haven't started protection work. Feel terrible for the helpers who get beaten up for improper control on the handler's part!
 
#26 ·
Just to be clear, I didn't get bitten, I got nose punched in the eye socket. Was teaching a Doberman to settle into a bath and hold (first time), and I went just a touch past his stress threshold and instead of a self controlled bark and hold, he decided to lunge/jump. It could be partially my fault, but he was able to reach me bc the handler relaxed a little sice he was not doing his normal pulling at the end of the lead and he bought himself a few extra inches I handed planned on. It messed him up more than me lol. That unplanned interaction made took his confidence down a touch for the rest of the session :-/

But yes you could argue it is always the helpers fault if he gets bitten, in so much as he/she didn't mitigate the risks at hand
 
#27 ·
While, as a newbie, I'm not particularly bad at posting myself. (rather good actually, never had to be taught how to possition myself) Jaxon's only 70 right now and I'm not light. ;) But he can still tilt me off my balance.

I had to learn the differences between helpers because each of them do it a little bit differently. It got frustrating at first, now I just roll with it cause they know what they're doing. xD Some say I don't move enough, one says I move too much! Especially when we were applying pressure for rebites in the beginning.

I'm more likely to NOT let go of the line at the proper time and piss my helper off than actually let go before the right time. LOL. I have poor timeing for sure, but we're learning, only been doing it for 7 Months. And I'm sure they have TREMENDOUS patience when it comes to us newbies.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Piece of advise... Strive to learn what you want done with your dogs and how, so you can tell the helper what you want, and fix him if he's wrong ;-) I always start my sessions with "what do you want to do" and get a blank stare and I guide them through to suggestions... But that's my subtle way of conditioning our club members to take control and responsibility for their dogs training

Btw, I'm 138lbs and have no issue holding with of mine firmly enough that they will backflip in the air on a flat before that squeeze an inch out of me. It's ALL in the technique. I have even held both dogs on a Y lead... That's 150lbs of retarded agains my 138
 
#29 ·
Question. How are you teaching the handlers (or is the training director and/or teaching helper doing this?) what to expect for foundation work? What are their goals? How are you explaining what builds on what?

New handlers cannot tell you what to do if they have no idea what they need to do and why, in the beginning. They should be able to tell you what they did the last session and the results.
 
#30 ·
First, I'm sorry if you got hurt. That's never fun.



Thank you for saying that.

Still a novice myself and just wanted to share a bit of my experience.

I remember sending a video to Sundance’s breeder because I wanted to show her our progress, I was rather proud of how the dog was doing and her response to me was that *I* needed to stand still! I didn’t even realize how much I was moving around until she pointed this out to me. My own club members didn't say anything to me.

The following week I went back to club, told them what she said about my moving around and asked one of the other handlers for help teaching me to "post". Last thing I want is for the helper to get injured/hurt due to my ignorance. But would anyone have taught me if she didn't tell me and I hadn't asked for help?
 
#31 · (Edited)
I am one of those novice handlers and I agree with you 100%. I am working on holding the lead tightly and I have never let it go yet! My decoy always says...you better hold on to that lead...can't say I blame him. My girl is 70 pounds at 1 year old and I weigh in at 115. I have strong legs and I am short so I have good center of gravity. Yesterday was my first time working with an agitation harness and she was a lot stronger on that than the agitation collar so I will be continuing to work out to stay in shape to do this sport.
 
#41 ·
It's not so much just holding the line but not moving to give the dog closer access to the helper. My 90# dog has popped me off my feet more than once on a flat collar, and I keep my legs bent, body low, it still happened.
I had to go to a prong to have more control, didn't set my dog back whatsoever.
 
#36 ·
Your group does it a little differently than what I have worked in, have seen other clubs do.

Usually, the teaching helper is the one that is working with the young dogs and puppies. The foundation is put on by the experience teaching helper. After a certain point in training, and working with the teaching helper, the new club helper start working with the younger dogs, under the guidance of the teaching/training helper.

I have heard of some interesting scenarios. New person shows up, new to sport, with young dog. With no direction to the handler or explanation, “helper” takes the leash and has the handler toss around the puppy tug…… And requires payment for that…… J