I have a GSD in desperate need of a good working shock collar to train with. we are limited in funds as my husband has been laid off and I enter into Chemo in January. We have a GSD that is a great dog but we have gone as far as we can with the tools we have now. She is at a point that she will do as she pleases and we want that to change. If anyone has one they would be willing to sell on the cheaper side or can donate we are trying to be the best owners we can on limited budget. ANY help would be appreciated!!!:fingerscrossed:
ISO Training shock collar
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Jennperry
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I agree with what Lou has said. In my post I said we went back after MANY complaints I found we never took her back to the previous trainer. we've worked EXTREMELY hard with Sura. She is fantastic in stores, my doctor's office very food motivated she knows and does sit, stay, lay down, however it's the "she see red" whenever someone comes up to her too quick at night or to our home.
Yes I know now we should never have taken her so soon and we've reported the breeder. HOWEVER we want to be responsible owners.
I have been reading Lou's pages and agree about not giving a tonal warning will be a dble 3 strikes your out kinda thing. Lou's information has been so extensive and insightful. I know I am not hurting Sura we just cannot take a chance she won't listen and the pronged collar we've taken it as far as we can so this is our next step. For her and Us.
We want to enjoy her and we do she sleeps every night with me. every morning she wakes me with her ears back and her head under my chin telling me I am her master and I love her loyalty. She isn't affraid when we go shooting she stays right where we place her. She just needs some "fine Tuning" that she won't be hurt because the neighbor kids come to the door.
Yes I know now we should never have taken her so soon and we've reported the breeder. HOWEVER we want to be responsible owners.
I have been reading Lou's pages and agree about not giving a tonal warning will be a dble 3 strikes your out kinda thing. Lou's information has been so extensive and insightful. I know I am not hurting Sura we just cannot take a chance she won't listen and the pronged collar we've taken it as far as we can so this is our next step. For her and Us.
We want to enjoy her and we do she sleeps every night with me. every morning she wakes me with her ears back and her head under my chin telling me I am her master and I love her loyalty. She isn't affraid when we go shooting she stays right where we place her. She just needs some "fine Tuning" that she won't be hurt because the neighbor kids come to the door.
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I think for you right now ... much more "appropriate" and "viable" options can be found here:
http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/7378442-post9.html
Any tool incorrectly used can create more problems than it solves! Out think your dog.
If you're on a limited budget and are committed to using an e-collar then the $30 Petrainer e-collars on Amazon work perfectly fine. I've had $250 collars from Cabelas and I've had the $30 Petrainer collars. They both do exactly what they were designed to do perfectly fine. The $30 collar is just much lighter construction and not appropriate for harder field use, but for the average pet owner playing in suburbia or an open grassy field its fine.
Just learn how to use the tool on yourself before using it on your dog.
Just learn how to use the tool on yourself before using it on your dog.
They may work acceptably for methods that just give corrections, but they will not work with my methods. They claim 100 levels but people I know have tested them on lab quality gear, and they do not have that many levels. The stim level on them changes from button press to button press. This is not that big a deal once a dog is collar literate, being off a bit is not an impossible hurdle, if all you're doing is giving corrections. But if you're using my methods, they're not adequate. With quality collars a dog will first feel, for example, a 20. He won't feel a 19 and a 21 will be too high for him. If your collar is not consistent, my methods won't work. And just as important, with this brand, you cannot hold down the button, turn the dial and have the stim change continuously. You don't get consistency and the necessary features with cheap electronics.
My experience with cheap collars like this is akin to buying cheap crap from China, probably where they are made. They last until the they're dropped a couple of times, and then they're done. This is one area where you REALLY get what you pay for.
The Bitterness of Poor Quality remains Long after the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten.
Based on your posts and what you want to use the ecollar for, you are going about it exactly the wrong way, and will most likely make your dog a lot worse.
She needs a more wholistic form of training (rather than just targeting the specific issues you are concerned about) and I would recommend maybe looking at some resources online or something about prong collar training and working with reactivity and fear aggression and start with that. An ecollar is not needed to fix the issues that you are dealing with. What is needed is good training, and improvement and increased knowledge on your part. I know an ecollar sounds like a good fix to your problems, but its not going to make up for your lack of training knowledge... It will make that lack of training knowledge more damaging to your dog.
Based on what the OP said in Post #21,
it appears that they are going to use my methods to train the dog with the Ecollar. Earlier I suggested using my methods to train the recall, the sit and the down. Often these kinds of issues what are occurring, simply disappear, when this is done. Jennperry I suggest that you read THIS ARTICLE to see how a highly reactive, fear−aggressive dog was rehabilitated.
Hence my suggestion to train the three OB movements.
I think that the prong collar is one of the worst tools that a novice can use for problems of "reactivity and fear aggression." OTOH, the Ecollar is THE PERFECT tool for these issues when my methods are used.
No one "needs" an Ecollar to train a dog. Dog trainers got along without them for thousands of years before they came along. But they're here now, and it's silly to overlook the tool, when it's so effective for dealing with these kinds of issues.
This sounds as if you think that an Ecollar is not "good training." Is that the case? Do you think it's the tool or the trainer that determines if training is good or not?
Nah, anyone who can read and follow simple instructions can use the articles on my site to train their dog.
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LOU Jen's story reminds me so much of Sura we've taken her as far as we can. I will be looking to your site for further information.
This is not about the good/bad of ecollars it's about being a good owner and helping my dog be the best SHE wants to be. I think if people read what I have on Lou's site you would not be so quick to judge someone looking for help. And the ecollar ($30) one mentioned I reviewed.....Most horrible records also says the prongs have BURNED their dogs. Now to me that's CRUEL!!! I agree you get what ya pay for and cheap china garbage is just that.
Thanks for everyone who has helped and I wish everyone who has attacked well wishes
Jenn
This is not about the good/bad of ecollars it's about being a good owner and helping my dog be the best SHE wants to be. I think if people read what I have on Lou's site you would not be so quick to judge someone looking for help. And the ecollar ($30) one mentioned I reviewed.....Most horrible records also says the prongs have BURNED their dogs. Now to me that's CRUEL!!! I agree you get what ya pay for and cheap china garbage is just that.
Thanks for everyone who has helped and I wish everyone who has attacked well wishes
Jenn
I agree with this Jenn, but 'haters gonna hate.' Sometimes they get so emotionally involved that they disregard forum rules and launch into personal attacks that get threads locked, as we've seen with a parallel thread that was just closed.
Jenn the injuries those people are reporting are not burns. They are the result of leaving the collar on the dog for too long and/or not moving it around every couple of hours. The contact points compromise the circulation of the skin that's directly under them, and after enough time the skin, literally starts to die. It's called pressure necrosis. Eventually, if the points are not moved around for long enough an injury will develop. They look like a pair of hole in the tissue, directly under each of the points, and they almost always get infected. No modern Ecollar puts out enough current to cause burns.
It's easy to avoid, don't have the dog wear the collar for longer than 10-12 hours. Or, if you do, call him over every 3-4 hours, grab the box that contains the electrical stuff, and move it to a new spot on the dog's neck. I alternate moving it to the one o'clock and the eleven o'clock positions. Eventually gravity will pull it back down to the bottom of the dog's neck, but while it's working its way back down there, the pressure of the contact points will be spread out all around the dog's neck.
try this instead of shock collar
I started out trying a choke chain, didn't do a thing.
Then went to pinch collar, nothing, like I said he was very strong (went up to 125 pounds).
Got a shock collar, helped some, but he soon learned to ignore the pain & got for what he was after anyway.
Trying to teach him to walk on a lead & heel was crazy.
So I did a little research & some thinking. With the choke or pinch, their necks just get stronger the more they pull.
I decided to try a GENTLE LEAD or Haltie. It simply has a canvas collar with a piece that goes over the nose (like a horses but no mouth bit)& is attached to the collar. When they try to pull it causes their head to tilt downward. Downward means they slow, they are not in command. The top of their snouts are sensitive.
I have at this point taught a good number of dogs (including other people's "problem dogs?), I can have any dog heeling like a champ within 30 min.
You have to know how to use it & what to expect. For instance initially they kind of freak, & immediately try to get it off or try to rub it off against you. Then as you start to walk they will buck like a wild bronco, until they catch on that not pulling equals comfort.
I talk with them, stop & pet & praise. ALWAYS bring water for them & treats, stop often & give one or both.
They will chill out & enjoy their walks. After a while training when pulling altogether has ceased remove just the nose piece. Often they will do well for a while until they get excited or see another dog or rabbit, etc. Slip nose bit back on. They learn quickly that pulling or naughty gets the dreaded nose cover. Soon you won't even need it.
Happy ending no mean pinching or choking (which only increases their threat level as they assume unknown thing, or the dog across the street is attacking or hurting them).
You don't need to hurt them into submission or break their spirit, just help them understand whats an ok way to go on a walk.
Hi, I had a big male GS that I got at 13 mo's from a very bad environment. He was very big & very strong, & very aggressive. He'd never had any training at all & hadn't even been in a house.
I started out trying a choke chain, didn't do a thing.
Then went to pinch collar, nothing, like I said he was very strong (went up to 125 pounds).
Got a shock collar, helped some, but he soon learned to ignore the pain & got for what he was after anyway.
Trying to teach him to walk on a lead & heel was crazy.
So I did a little research & some thinking. With the choke or pinch, their necks just get stronger the more they pull.
I decided to try a GENTLE LEAD or Haltie. It simply has a canvas collar with a piece that goes over the nose (like a horses but no mouth bit)& is attached to the collar. When they try to pull it causes their head to tilt downward. Downward means they slow, they are not in command. The top of their snouts are sensitive.
I have at this point taught a good number of dogs (including other people's "problem dogs?), I can have any dog heeling like a champ within 30 min.
You have to know how to use it & what to expect. For instance initially they kind of freak, & immediately try to get it off or try to rub it off against you. Then as you start to walk they will buck like a wild bronco, until they catch on that not pulling equals comfort.
I talk with them, stop & pet & praise. ALWAYS bring water for them & treats, stop often & give one or both.
They will chill out & enjoy their walks. After a while training when pulling altogether has ceased remove just the nose piece. Often they will do well for a while until they get excited or see another dog or rabbit, etc. Slip nose bit back on. They learn quickly that pulling or naughty gets the dreaded nose cover. Soon you won't even need it.
Happy ending no mean pinching or choking (which only increases their threat level as they assume unknown thing, or the dog across the street is attacking or hurting them).
You don't need to hurt them into submission or break their spirit, just help them understand whats an ok way to go on a walk.
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Absolute obedience to a few commands will work wonders for many problem dogs.
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positive reinforcement ,no need to shock your dog into submission JM2cents
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