I don't have any experience with Wendelin. On your question of back to back breeding, current research shows that back to back breeding is actually best for the female as long as she is not having difficulty whelping or caring for the pups. If she has difficulty bouncing back then it may be best to skip a heat.

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Alright thank you! I have another option for a litter that will be born in March from a breeder that will be breeding his female to Irck de la Hutte du Berger. This will be his B litter. His first litter best female went to a recommended breeder called Ulfheim, I contacted her and she sent me to this guy because she no longer breeds. Is getting a dog from a newer breeder a good idea? He trains his own dogs and titles them, DM clear, I can DM you more info if you wish with the Pedigree.

 

There’s a bunch of different opinions on this. Some will say back to back are best because every time they go through a heat without being bred, their body attacks the uterus. It’s one of the arguments for spaying females that aren’t going to be bred as well. There are arguments the other way too. I would recommend you ask Christine and see if you like her answer. My knowledge of wendelin farms is they can produce some sharp, higher aggression dogs. I’m not saying all their dogs come out this way, just the reputation that I know of them.

 

okay thank you. Question for you then, I explained this a bit more in the above reply, but do you think giving new breeders a shot is a good idea or stick to the well respected ones? I can DM you more info.

 

My understanding is the most up to date science is saying it's best to breed your female back to back. I know several Wendelin dogs and have liked them all. However, she does breed heavy on the Czech lines so I don't doubt that some are sharper which would translate into "anxiety".

Are you willing to import a dog? I know of a litter that should be super nice.

 

Not interested in import. Sorry.

I feel like all of the local breeders that are "good" or MANY of them are just glorified puppy mills. I am really interested in going with this guy who is new. Let me DM/PM you something!

 

Regarding new breeders - it's pretty common in our sport for a person to breed their titled female without being a "breeder" by our definition. So yes, I would not hesitate to buy a puppy from someone like that if I liked the dogs.

 

It all comes down to the dogs involved at the end of the day. You don’t need to pm me the pedigree. Feel free to post it if you want. There are other people here who can tell you more about it than me.

 

I messaged Jax, she said the Grandmother of the female being bred can bring aggression.

Éos vom Haus Bergblick – working-dog This is the female

And here are the two possible sires.
Bordy - Bordy Blendy – working-dog

Irck - Irck de la Hutte du Berger – working-dog

EDITED

 

What do you want this dog for? What is your experience level with shepherds and other high power dogs?

 

Companion mostly, going to be doing lots of exercise and training with them. I am interested in doing some obedience training, scent and personal protection stuff for fun, but not going to compete or anything.

 

I said the grandsire on the bottom - Kinski - bring aggression And I'm a she

 

My apologies!

Edited above message. I am sorry

 

I'm not upset. It always amuses me when people think I'm a man on here.

 

same.

 

Back to back is healthier for the uterus and pyo risk but that doesn’t necessarily translate to being healthier for the bitch overall. She must be back in good shape and recovered well from the previous pregnancy. So if a female had a large litter recently and is still not back to her ideal then she shouldn’t be bred again if she comes back into heat before she’s back to ideal. Some dogs have a decent amount of time in between heats so back to back for one dog isn’t the same as back to back for another. Along with considerations like how well they did during pregnancy and pup number. It isn’t as simple as one is better than the other there are a lot of variables that go into. Also how many times they’re back to back breeding. If they’re breeding their female every heat cycle from 2-10 probably not a good breeder.

Also recently I’ve seen a ton of posts about calcium supplementation. If a female needs a ton of supplementation of calcium ignoring that potential issue I’d be more so worried about that dog going on to be bred again soon, as in shortly after weaning pups.

 

Back to back is healthier for the uterus and pyo risk but that doesn’t necessarily translate to being healthier for the bitch overall. She must be back in good shape and recovered well from the previous pregnancy. So if a female had a large litter recently and is still not back to her ideal then she shouldn’t be bred again if she comes back into heat before she’s back to ideal. Some dogs have a decent amount of time in between heats so back to back for one dog isn’t the same as back to back for another. Along with considerations like how well they did during pregnancy and pup number. It isn’t as simple as one is better than the other there are a lot of variables that go into. Also how many times they’re back to back breeding. If they’re breeding their female every heat cycle from 2-10 probably not a good breeder.

Also recently I’ve seen a ton of posts about calcium supplementation. If a female needs a ton of supplementation of calcium ignoring that potential issue I’d be more so worried about that dog going on to be bred again soon, as in shortly after weaning pups.

This is very interesting, thank you.

 

@wolfstraum @UnlimitedGSD

 

Though I have talked to Unlimited, she gets 100's of emails and any dog from her would be great but I have no chance of getting an upcoming pup anytime soon.

I am not sure who Wolfstraum is, are they a breeder? (edit - seems to be located in the USA. I am not interested in imports but thank you)

 

I have no doubt that Christine would be able to pick the right pup for you based on your plans for the dog! She would be my pick for a breeder in that area.

 

I worry about the anxiety. I want to be able to do Personal Protection but also be able to not worry if the dog has to go to a boarding for a day or so if something happens. I need a really well balanced dog.

 

If you PM me I can give you some input. Not personal with Wendelin but I was given excellent advice by a breeder in the Ottawa area who only breeds one litter if that a year. She was incredibly helpful and it really helped me with my search. There are a lot of options if you know where to start.

 

PMing right now.

 

Back to back is fine - I won't comment on Wendelin. PM me if you want my opinion.

 

PMing

 

Good luck finding someone who isn’t clueless about PP training, plus you need a very special dog to have a good one. Lot of hacks training poor quality dogs.

 

On Wendelin, I have no first hand experience with them, but like the info they provide. Ultimately, seeing the sire/dam pairing and litter firsthand is the only way I'll buy dogs, and they're geographically out of range for me to do that.

On the breeding question, it's a little more involved than rule of thumb answers.I have always subscribed to 'every other heat' cycle for bitches to breed, and only if they're younger than six years old. Studs can continue longer. And, that was the philosophy of the breeder I acquired my female from, who was well established in animal husbandry in general , not just dogs.

You might pick up a copy of "The Complete Book Of Dog Breeding" by Dan Rice, D.V.M. In it he states the same preference of the every other heat model. When you factor in that some litters are 5 pups, and some are 10 pups, knowing exactly how much stress the bitch has gone thru, as well as knowing how well all internals have repaired and ready to carry a healthy litter becomes more difficult. Rice also notes that as the bitch ages, the litters can become smaller, but with larger pups, and that translates to more whelping stress on the female. IMO, anything more of a brood bitch is out of disregard for her health, and more likely greed. Dogs are not machines.

 

Fraserglen’s has a litter due next week.

 

I am not ready to get a puppy that soon, just trying to talk to breeders. Plus, I have not gotten a response from Sheena in a week and a bit now. Though she is an option... Some people are telling me to stay away because they do not title their dogs.

 

I think you may be benefit from asking other people here what they like and want in a dog and what they don’t. That will help you figure out what you want in a dog I think, and help you find a breeder. It may sound like some of our dogs are similar, but I there sometimes is a word of difference.

 

Question, is the off switch needed in a good workingline? Breeder says the female she is breeding has no off switch but a good family dog, I asked for more info but what is your opinion?

 

"No off switch" is code for stay away for a novice owner imo

 

Appreciate it! Thanks

 

Off switch is VERY important to me. My dog didn’t have until 10-12 months and I found it difficult.

 

Agreed 1000x

 

Valor has had one from the start. I sometimes wonder if his good behavior in the car and off switch has anything to do with his long trip home.

 

I have learnt a lot from this post actually David. The amount of people that have contacted me... it surprised me.

[Edit: Comments removed by Moderator] Edit by Matt - DM me if you want my opinion on the breeder.

Good breeders like Fraserglen as well as I am sure many others, you get dogs that are naturally confident and ready to go. All of the dogs coming from Fraserglen... not one has been ridden of anxiety, all confident and collected.

 

IMO, the term off switch is very poorly operationally defined in term of behavior and from an ethological POV. Some dogs need to have training and maturity in order to settle. Some dogs are less high drive. Some dogs are hyperactive due to training and or genetics. It is not as black and white as a dog having an “off switch” which really has no meaning. Some dogs don’t have any leadership or their handlers have no or poor commitment to training. Hyperactivity and drive are not the same thing but can look similar in young pups. Impulse control, native intelligence, training and environmental factors all contribute to a dog’s behavior. I see a lot of nice dogs who have been trained to have hectic drive. Some dogs are genetically hectic. I would say that in general, a pup that has a so called off switch at an early age is a lower prey drive dog. That doesn’t equate with a dog that is lacking. It depends on your goals with the dog. Also, some dogs/lines don’t show strong prey drive until they are a few months old and occasionally even later.

 

I agree with this somewhat, with the exception of lack of prey drive.

I have 2 GSDs. Both get the same amount of activity and have the same training, for the most part. 1@6 months, 1@2 years. Valor can run the older dog into the ground on a hike or retrieving. Valor has far more prey drive, hits a tug harder, is much snapper in OB, and is more forward to a threat. He is not hectic but could be if trained poorly. The older dog is far more active in the house and needs management, place command / kennel. Valor will just chill, because it's time to chill, unless the older dog won't leave him alone.

That's what I mean about an off switch.

 

If you have a GSD that is displaying behaviors that you think are abnormal anxiety, describe them and you will get a more reliable answer to your question. Solid pups show little to no fear about basic things such as a broom falling next to them or smacking the ground when doing bite work. If they do, it is quickly extinguished with good training.

 

I'm just trying to understand what exactly it is that people are saying about Wendelin producing "anxious" dogs. There is another known and very experienced breeder in southern Ontario that titles her own breeding stock and I've heard people say that she too produces "anxious" dogs. Sure, with the amount of dogs these two breeders produce, there is bound to be a few imperfect dogs. But to say that in general they are producing "anxious" dogs is very hard to believe.

I am just wondering if people are using terms loosely and not really understanding those terms. Are we talking about outright fear, sharpness, threshold, nerves, mistrust, suspicion, drives, or a dog getting excited in the truck as you approach their favorite park?

I am just really curious to know what sort of behaviors are people seeing that they would slap a label on that dog as being "anxious".

ello to all of my lovely friends here on this forum. I have come across Christina in my search of finding a good breeder. I have heard many great reviews and other awful ones of the dog they received from her. The great ones varied from "amazing dog, super companion, awesome service, knowledgeable breeder, etc" the negative reviews have usually been about her dogs having anxiety. So here comes the glorious question I have for you all, what are your experiences with Wendelin Farms?

However, she does breed heavy on the Czech lines so I don't doubt that some are sharper which would translate into "anxiety".

I worry about the anxiety. I want to be able to do Personal Protection but also be able to not worry if the dog has to go to a boarding for a day or so if something happens. I need a really well balanced dog.

Good breeders like Fraserglen as well as I am sure many others, you get dogs that are naturally confident and ready to go. All of the dogs coming from Fraserglen... not one has been ridden of anxiety, all confident and collected.

 

David,
There are so many variables just like peoples’ temperament/ personalities. And each dog’s prey drive is in comparison to every other dog. There is threshold to prey, how a dog’s eyes reveal his prey drive, extinction of prey with some dogs motivated to go all day long and some coming down in drive fairly quickly. I just thing the term off switch has become non useful jargon.

 

Sure, the ability or tendency to chill comes from different places. Perspective matters, as I'm often in need of reminding. Common vernacular tends to lead to common conversation, and in some ways is necessary to graduate to uncommon conversation.

Motivation is clear and obvious to an experienced trainer, but eludes most until they have the opportunity to learn dogs. Settling in the house means a thing that comes from different places. When you don't understand those places, it's just a thing.

 

I have a female out of haakons full brother Gerry morfelder land son can speak a little to the bitch lines. Social , hi drive, very intense, very stable with the family, no handler or food aggression. However does not slow down much and would be a lot for a first time buyer.

 

How many of these "anxious" dogs that some breeders are producing come from novice/poor or anxious owners as well?

We have a friend who is very anxious around large dogs. Guess what? Her kids are very anxious around large dogs; she has transferred her anxiousness to her kids and you can also do that to dogs.