Just a video of us working on the distance and duration of his sit and down stays. Critique welcome!
Generally a little more animation and movement. Working at a little faster pace and asking for attention by encouraging him to come forward to you. Have a cue to start and a word to end on, and even if its only one sit, look for it to be a good, enthusiastic one sit. What was you're general plan with him, to get where you are now?Yeah I have to have him on a leash or he won't stay by me or listen to me. I'd like to keep his attention from beginning to end, but I don't know how to.
The clicker method isn't confusing to me... I was just asking for critique in general so as to better myself as a trainer. My dream is to be a professional dog trainer, and so I'm always looking for more advice and opinions.Well I'm not going to give an assessment per say. But I will say if the click treats and rewards thing is confusing you?? What do you think it's doing for your dog???
I used to try using a toy as a reward instead, but his "out" isn't 100% yet. I've been told/I've read that I shouldn't be using a toy as a reward until I know he always take it from me and always drop it when I ask him to. He'll usually play tug, but not fetch. Should I focus more on solidifying his "out" so I can use tug as a reward instead of food? I definitely need to get him some better treats as well as maybe withholding two meals instead of just one. Food is just so much easier to reward with, although I would like to be able to use the toy as well. When I first started training him, I didn't correct him. When I used to take him to Man's Best Friend training classes, we always corrected every time he didn't respond to the first command. Later on I started reading the articles on the leerburg website (which is what I now base my training off of), which said to only correct when the dog knows the command and is consciously disobeying you, so I stopped correcting so often. The article said to use a word like "nope" (as in "nope, try again") if they don't obey because they either don't know the command fully yet or if they're in too distracting of an environment. Do you think he is at the point where I should be correcting him for not obeying the first time I command him?Have you ever tried rewarding him with a quick game of tug, instead of food? He seems kind of bored and I think that is why he tends to want to wander off if he isn't leashed. He likes the treats and is happy to eat them, but he just doesn't seem to be excited to train. My dog is like yours-more than happy to scarf down the food reward, but then back to sniffing the ground and ignoring me until I give another command. Sometimes you gotta switch things up a little if you aren't getting what you want out of a training session. You could use a toy he really loves, but only use it for training-no other chewing on it or playing with it outside of training.
My dog seems to enjoy obedience a lot more with play mixed in. I am able to hold his attention the whole time, because he is anticipating that tug reward!
If he doesn't like to tug or fetch, then maybe a different treat that he really loves and only gets when doing obedience.
I also notice you repeating commands. You are inadvertently teaching him to ignore you. There are no consequences for not doing the command immediately, so he just doesn't listen until you say it 2-3 times. Do you ever give him any type of correction for blowing you off?
Thanks for the advice! I have looked into engagement. It's just so difficult to engage him. He'd rather chase bugs (as you can see at one point in the video, lol).To make a suggestion. You look boring. With no sound, I noticed there is no enthusiasm. Be interesting. He's just haphazardly sitting.
Butt hits the ground, you two should be facing each other. Treat in hand, bring it up so his eyes are with yours. Celebrate him just sitting. Then work to stepping away. Sit, treat. If he gets up. No treat. Start over.
Just trying to help. Good luck.
Suggest looking into engagement.
Thanks for the advice! I have used multiples methods trying to figure out what works best for him. I've never had a dog so difficult to engage. At this point, I would like to continue on with and use leerburg's methods. I would like to get him his CGC, and maybe his BH if possible. Right now I'm just training him for the CGC.Generally a little more animation and movement. Working at a little faster pace and asking for attention by encouraging him to come forward to you. Have a cue to start and a word to end on, and even if its only one sit, look for it to be a good, enthusiastic one sit. What was you're general plan with him, to get where you are now?
He obeys you, even without much focus, so you're doing some things well. I just wonder if maybe you've mixed a few different techniques or ideas and should narrow it down to get what you want?
Thanks! Yeah, I worked to make sure he would follow my verbal commands. Lol, I honestly never noticed this before, so thank you guys for pointing this out to me!!Tulip, I like how you have him trained to verbal commands and not just body language. I also noticed he appears to know how to count. It appeared to average he sat or downed on the third command.
You've done a very nice job on teaching him to stay. But for this exercise you reward him for the staying which means he gets it for staying, not for getting up and going to you. Because that's what you're rewarding him for, for getting up and gong to you. Use a word to release him from the stay. You can use 'okay' or 'free' or whatever you want. Generally when I teach stay they don't leave it at all until I give the free command. If I'm going to have them do something else, like come to me, stand or sit from the same position, then I teach them a wait command. Wait tells them I am going to expect them to do something. Stay means don't move until I release them. Two similar commands with different outcomes. Wait would also be when I open the car door. They are to wait there until I give them the command to get out. Stay means they aren't leaving the car or the spot where they are in it.
I can see you've put a lot of work into him, which is great and puts you ahead of lots of people. But he has no real engagement with you. This is where and why you are having the biggest problems. By this point in time he should be looking at you to check in on where you are and if you want him to do something. Instead he is looking at everything else. In the yard you are not important to him yet, not more important than what else is out there, which is not much. You need to make yourself more important.
Personally, I would stop the training and start playing with him. You stated in a different post that he is attached with a leash to you in the house. It looks like his yard time is also leashed to you if you're training. Get rid of the leash. Put a crate in the livingroom, or wherever you spend most of your time. He doesn't need to be with you all the time. He needs to start learning fun means being with you. Boring is in the crate, fun is time with you. He can watch tv from the crate. He can chew on a toy. Once an hour or whatever time you have, take a toy and take him outside, off leash, and play. Throw it, play tug. Walk away from him and soon he'll be following. Use two toys for fun and fetch. If he runs away with one, take out the second one and when he's looking throw that one and go get the first one. He's totally bored with training and it looks like that is the time he spends with you both inside and outside. Time to turn that around and become the fun person he wants to be with.
I haven't really found anything that gets him really engaged, except for bugs, lol. If only I could leash and train a fly, then I'd always have his attention! Lol. I probably just need to try withholding two meals instead of just one, as well as finding some tastier treats. Yeah, it's weird. I've trained a yorkie, a lab, and a maltese, and they all were much more engaged with me and looked like those gsds you see in videos online, and now that I have a gsd he's the opposite.What kind of relationship do you have with him outside of training? Does he get engaged for any activity, say playing fetch, or playing tracking games, nosework, maybe he gets super excited for better treats?
I see all that sniffing around in the back yard as an avoidance tactic. He isn't unhappy but he's really not interested.
The key to training is to get the dog engaged with you. Work on that, and then go back to teaching commands. He's very flat in the work, which can be normal in certain breeds, but for a GSD there should be much more engagement.
What may be the problem with that Tulip, is that its left you a little out of order in some things and putting things together at the wrong time. In a broad, general picture, you're looking for a lot of control before you've got the strong desire.Thanks for the advice! I have used multiples methods trying to figure out what works best for him. I've never had a dog so difficult to engage. At this point, I would like to continue on with and use leerburg's methods. I would like to get him his CGC, and maybe his BH if possible. Right now I'm just training him for the CGC.