German Shepherds Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm putting together the shopping list for our first puppy, which will be arriving in a couple of months. This is research time. I want to know as much as possible so that the puppy has the best possibility of growing up happy, healthy and well balanced

What is the best walking tool for Shephards? I walk my lab either on a harness or a martingale, depending on the level of control that I want in the situation..the breeder mentioned that shepherds are prone to pulling on harnesses, so I'm thinking along the lines of a Martingale for the puppy?

What about toys? are they similar in chew habits to Labs? Do I need to worry about them breaking teeth?(My lab did that)

Are soft blankets, or a doggy bed best int he crate for night time? It's going to have a 32" crate that the lab grew out of, so should I split it to make it smaller?

Anything I need to scan my yard for, and remove? My lab doesn't eat things, so I haven't really done any special "dog" gardening

And honestly anything else you'd like to tell me about having a puppy in the house. I have decided that it will be a bit like having a 10m old, in that they will go around taste everything..and I should give most things in my house a little push to see if they fall over- because the puppy is likely to knock into things. And I need to adjust my adult dog to having his food bowls picked up, because the only fault he has is that he doesn't share his food bowl. Water is fine, but not food. But the puppy's room is on the other end of the house, and he will be fed there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Left to their own impulses, Shepherds are pullers, some more than others. You will see some different schools of thought on this forum. I use a Sprenger brand prong collar. Others can explain alternative methods for conditioning them to a slack lead. My dog responds well to the prong, such that I have phased it out some.

We have an 11 week old puppy. He sleeps in a large Ruff Tough transport crate, with a Kong pad. Generally, if he goes to sleep around 11 ish, our bed time, he will sleep through to about 4 before needing to go out. We also have a 9 month old, and she sleeps outside the crate, on the bedroom floor.

Shepherd pups can be pretty mouthy, and I have discovered from this forum, bully sticks and beef trachea as outlets for chewing.
Once teething is over, mouthiness tapers off, though it doesn't necessarily stop overnight. My nine month old had some post-teething tendency to worry my trouser leg, and mouth me, mostly to get attention, not injurious biting. That has now tapered off completely with the older pup.

Be particularly alert to him chewing on electric cords.

Others might weigh on on bedding. My nine month old chewed up every bedding item we tried. The current 11 week old seems to kind of like the Kong bed at night.

Good luck! And enjoy the puppy. They are a lot of work, and draining at times. They are also fun to watch as they develop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the warning on cords! The puppy's room has all cords tucked behind the mini fridge, but int he livingroom, there's an extension cord under the window. I'll find a solution for that before we get the puppy. I have large, XL Kongs, but not small ones- will have the puppy's owner grab some of those. I have some good recipes too, though I often just fill with canned food myself.

Would a teaser wand help with bite redirection, or just re-enforce the behavior? eg: pup goes for ankle and is redirected with teaser wand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,348 Posts
Don't get carried away on buying stuff for a puppy. I have so many things that were never used.

-Martingale collar - they grow out of collars so quickly so just get a non-slip collar with adjustment so you aren't buying one every week.
-Soft toys that you can redirect them to when they are biting you.
-Toys and treats appropriate for chewing on.

-Crate - yes, divide it so it's the correct size for a puppy. I have 42" crates (min. size) for my adult dogs. Ruff Tuff crates are the BEST! I get all mine from carrymydog.com (veteran owned and great on shipping) It's what I have in my car but you can't divide those so either get appropriately sized plastic crates as he grows or get a wire crate you can divide.

-Prong collar - I don't put one of these on my dog just to walk until they are older. And I introduce the collar in a way that they pair a light pop with food. A puppy would need the smallest link (2.25mm) and an adult will need a medium (3.25mm). It's just as easy to teach your puppy to walk on a leash with a martingale and bypass buying the puppy size collar. It's really just teaching them to release to the pressure and then rewarding in position. That teaches them to walk with you and if they are ahead of you, to check back in with you instead of dragging you down the road. When they are older, I just put the prong on them but they already understand where they are supposed to be from the training.

-Do NOT put a bed or blanket in their crate. They will eat it or have an accident on it.
  • just pick up poisons outside.
  • Flirt poles really aren't for redirecting from biting your ankle. You want a direct replacement wtih a toy and play with them so they understand the value. Flirt poles might tire them out but they are actually designed to work prey drive. Chase and bite. Chase and bite. Bark, move the prey, chase and bite.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The crate I have is a 38", with doors on side and end front. It's only for his puppy time( it's a cheap one I picked up to use as a hospital for one of the cats, and I doubt it would hold up to a determined Shephard lol) I also have a big plastic travel crate....but I heard Shamas banging into the sides when he slept, so I feel like it's not big enough in the end either(Shamas is a lab-68lb) The 42" crate in the house is Shamas' Crate, but the brand is good- might sugggest another of those
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top