OK I'll give it a try....first, I think you might still want more prey. The grip is shallow, looks like he kind of shifts around at times, and there's a lot of growling. The helper is sort of tugging backward but stays locked up with the dog being pulled into him close which might be causing the growling. The mini escape bites I can't really see what the helper is doing beforehand but if you want more prey, the helper should be making prey. It looks more like just sending for bites and then tugging with the sleeve but fairly confrontational tugging. Obviously I can't *feel* the dog but the helper should respond accordingly to the dog. I think there needs to be more prey work in general, not just making it *object* oriented (tugging and possessing the sleeve). I think if you get more prey and more power from the prey the shallow bite problem will correct itself. I guess my question is how is this different from the other work and what makes it more prey?
Here are a few of my show line dog being worked more in prey (he's seen a lot of defense so we're trying to balance him out a bit). This is by no means a gold standard and we are also working on some other things I won't get into here, but you can see the sorts of things the helpers were doing to get more prey (helper is moving around, giving misses, more reactive with the sleeve once the dog bites, lets the dog take him down, sleeve is to the side and not pulled into his chest)
(ETA: This is the same dog doing more defensive type exercises, so you can see/hear the difference in the barking and biting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io8W7EkaCwU )
Can you explain the bolded? I watched your videos, I am still pretty green at SchH training. Are you in SchH or PPD(I think that's the personal protection acrynom, forgive me if not)? I am just curious and trying to learn more.LOL x11 I think you have it backwards. My dog often does NOT grip full though the more balanced work he sees and the better I cap his drive, the more gull the grip. The videos of your dog are IMO not showing a full grip at all, and since you brought up prey we're trying to point out how you can achieve that.
I do not allow my dog to attack people with cameras or drag me around, even in protection. In the barn video I tell the dog to alert. It was not a search exercise. The dogs aren't dumb, they always know where the helper is.
I guess I was mistaken in thinking you wanted to bring more balance and prey to your dog's work but based on your response you want a highly reactive level of defense. This is not a contest to see whose dog is more "real", we're talking about prey work. I don't see where in your videos your helper is doing any prey work at all.
True but remember, no training is better than bad training. All in all, nice dog. He has tons of potential. I would love to see him work on decoys that can bring it out.thanks myo, will print them off, there is a gap between what i read tho and my current resources ie finding the support that will do it in a manner typically thought more highly of here, no real choice but to work within yr resources.