That sounds better than my dog's raw diet. I keep trying to push a prey diet on my dog, but I cheat when I look at his watery stool. I watch my dog eating grass and know that there has to be a little more to it than just meat. From what I've read the diet should be 20ish percent bone mass to 80% protein. 5% can be taken from protein and you can feed greens, fruits, or whatever. Another 5% of that protein needs to be organ meat. Half of that organ meat needs to be liver. So stock up on packets of gizzards and livers at the grocery store. I find that if I take 3 fingers and take a greedy pinch out of both that that's about the right weight for my 85 pound Shepherd/Lab. I also tend to feed more bone when stools are lose, and less bone when stools are heavily calcified. They feel like dried up sandpaper.
Keep with the sardines for omega 3 and try to get a mix of 3-5 proteins per week. If the pup will eat the greens next to the meat or just soaked with the meat, you should do that. MUCH.LESS.WORK.
It's easy if you look at their diets as a weekly basis instead of a daily basis. It's allowed to teeter-totter a little.
How much to feed is based on the projected weight of the adult dog. 2% of the adult weight is typical. Scale it to closer to 1.5 to 3% if the dog is less or more active. You should feel and see ribs on the dog, but the dog should look healthy. Not anemic. Not pudgy.
Keep with the sardines for omega 3 and try to get a mix of 3-5 proteins per week. If the pup will eat the greens next to the meat or just soaked with the meat, you should do that. MUCH.LESS.WORK.
How much to feed is based on the projected weight of the adult dog. 2% of the adult weight is typical. Scale it to closer to 1.5 to 3% if the dog is less or more active. You should feel and see ribs on the dog, but the dog should look healthy. Not anemic. Not pudgy.