It sounds mostly like training consistency issues.
There are some rules to training that you might find useful:
1. Always start each session with something she can do well, so she has success and you can praise her and make the idea of training a positive one.
2. Keep training sessions short.
3. Do something 3 times, then move on.
4. Give commands 1 time. Give her an opportunity to get it right. Then help her to get into the position you want her in.
5. Do not give ANY command that you cannot immediately enforce -- this teaches her to ignore you -- a complaint you have. Do not command a COME, unless she is on lead. Ever. This one isn't optional. It is a lifeskill. If you need to, change the word you use to HERE. On lead, call her name, and then say, COME! if she comes, praise. If not, then a small tug and a lowered tone: NOW! If she comes, praise. If not, then walk to her, realing in the lead as you go, then walk her with her lead to where you wanted her to be, then say, "GOOD COME."
6. Always follow through.
7. Never, ever call your dog to you and then chew her out or punish her in any way. Coming to you is ALWAYS a good and positive thing.
8. For stationary exercises, do not use her name; for exercises where you want her to move, use her name:
Roxy, Come -- Yes.
Roxy, Heel -- Yes.
Stay! -- yes.
Roxy, Stand -- Yes.
Roxy, Sit -- Yes.
Roxy, Down -- Yes.
WAIT! -- Yes.
Roxy, STAY --No.
9. Her name should be associated with good stuff, praise, Good Girl! Good Roxie, Yes! What a good girl you are!
10. Negative markers should not have her name. Roxy, No! -- No. Just say, "No!" or "Eh!" This is not a psychological save her self-esteem thing, it is that you want to mark unwanted attention immediately if not sooner. It is easier for you to connect that No! or Eh! to the behavior you did not want if you do not wait to spit it out. There is simply no point in saying, "Bad Roxy."
11. Timing -- praise behavior you want, and correct behavior you don't want within seconds. I like YES! when I am training to let them know they got it right. Immediately, and then I follow that with "Good Sit" or whatever I was trying to teach. To reinforce the name that I am calling the command. For a negative, I will say "Eh!" and then I will start over completely with the command, a little quicker maybe to help the dog get into the desired position. And immediate praise when they get there.
12. End the session with something fun, that they will have success with. Jazz it up, end on an up-beat, when they still want more.
13. Pay attention to your body language and keep it consistent.
14. Phase treats out. Begin treating only every other time, or every third time, then for the quickest DOWN, and the best SIT, and then for a string of properly executed commands.
15. Break commands into parts, and train at first by staying close and managing distractions to be nil. As your dog gets it, start adding distance and time to stays, and then distractions -- build up to the 5 minute down with distractions, build up to the heel up and down the street, build up to a 20' recall, and a 10 foot stay.
More on come. Once you start the COME command, add a SIT. Every time you tell the dog to COME, have him sit in front of you, close enough for you to pet his head, and touch his collar -- then give him praise and a treat. When you are out walking next to a busy road, and you drop the lead, you want that COME to naturally be a COME FRONT, and petting the head and grabbing the collar.
When you do not have a lead on the dog, and it is time to come in, do not use COME or HERE. Save that for emergencies if the dog is not on a lead. Instead call the dog's name, ROXIE! Put your hand in your pocket as though you are going to get a treat. or run the other way. But do not use the COME command unless you can enforce it immediately. Do not chase your dog -- that is a very fun game to dogs, a very frustrating game for humans, a very dangerous game for dogs, and a heartbreaking game for humans.
It is all about discipline. The secret is, that it is about disciplining the human, so that the human makes sense to the dog, and the dog gains confidence and trust in the human because the human is consistent.
It is easier with classes and a good instructor. Classes provide instant distractions in the form of other dogs and people, and opportunities to learn from others' mistakes as well as your own. It also provides a bit of accountability -- if you are paying for it, if you sacrificed cable tv for dog classes, you are more likely to get out there and do the work every day. Some of us need this. And, classes with a good instructor can help because she can see the interaction between the dog and the person, and make suggestions individual to your dog and you. She can improve your timing, your body language, your consistency. And if something isn't working for your dog, she can suggest something else. If you can't, you can't, but it can make things easier.
Heidi Ho, Odie
Joy-Joy, Bear Cub, Hepsi-Pepsi
Cujo2, Karma Chameleon
Ramona the Pest, Kojak -- who loves you baby?
Tiny Tinnie, Susie's Uzzi, Kaiah -- The Baby Monster.