Leash aggression DS/CC - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Leash aggression DS/CC

Looking for some input from those who have dealt with leash aggressive dogs and used the desensitizing and counter conditioning methods which seem to be fairly uniform.

First, my GSD seems textbook ( regarding leash aggression )...mostly fine off leash but a bit lacking in the nuances of a "meet and greet" with other dogs..whether it is frustration once the leash is on or fear...supposedly the DS/CC method has merit for either situation....perhaps this is my first mistake.

I decided to start the process in the vehicle...no leash on, just a collar but she's still confined with no access to the dog. I sat in a Petco parking lot for about a half an hour with a bag of beef tidbits. I parked far enough away from the main action to ensure she would start off under threshold. The parade of dogs entering and leaving the store occurred as planned. I say : " Look at that " Dog looks and focuses on dog...I pretty much instantly say " YES!" and bait her with a piece of beef at a position which creates eye contact with me and allow her to take it...she has to look away from the other dog in order for this to take place. We continue this process for 30 minutes...dog looks at dogs entering and leaving every time I say "look at that" and I follow with process listed above...dog never gets over threshold once but it was somewhat an easy set up as I was planning on enough distance to set her up for success. I somewhat feel had I not done anything..she would have barked and done her normal jackass behavior...so it was a minor success.

Okay so here's where I need input.....first is the procedure proper ?...and any additional tips to enhance this attempt at changing her behavior ? And more importantly, have any of you actually used this method and believe it made significant improvements in your fearful aggressive dogs?

I do understand that this is a very long process with small changes regarding closing the proximity over time once the dog is comfortable at the previous distance......or am I just kidding myself and should just go get an e collar and light her up ?? ( just kidding ).


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 05:29 PM
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This method has really helped Grim. I also intersperse "watch" commands so he focuses on me.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:02 PM
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Great tips and info on --- > https://www.germanshepherds.com/forum...tive-dogs.html

Good luck!




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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:03 PM
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Sounds good so far. I had good luck using a toy (high value ball on a string).
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:10 PM
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I like using choices for some things, ignore that, this is better. Do that, you'll get this. I always worry when it comes to bad behavior the behavior is going to be worth more then the treat at some point. I'm more comfortable when I feel like they know they can't do something.

Doc

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:18 PM
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Midnite was real bad on leash. I did not let him ever look or focus on another dog. We spent a couple hours a day 20 ft away from the door at Petsmart and at the park. I used raw venison. When a dog was coming I had him focus on me and gave him treats. We started with one dog and every few days went to two, then three and moving closer to the door and eventually in the store. I must have walked him past the doggie daycare window 1000 times. You don't want to give them a chance to fail because you just end up starting all over. Some other tricks are...when a dog is coming turn and go the other way and in a happy voice say lets go, keep moving and don't give the dog the opportunity to look back. I have also had him in a sit and when a dog was coming I tossed treats in the opposite direction. Hd would hunt for the treats and not even acknowledge the passing dog. We did this for three months before if clicked. He is pretty good now. I'm able to take him to all kinds of events with other dogs without issue.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies and personal experiences...it is helpful. The different twists some of you used to the method I am using are interesting...

Steve...I agree that some bad behavior is as you suggest...worth more than a food morsel...could you expand on your " ignore that, this is better" approach....you have my curiosity.


Thanks,


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 06:36 PM
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Super G, I use a clicker, too. The dog looks, I click immediately, dog turns back to me looking for reward.

When outside, I intently watch my dog. The leash and clicker is in my right hand, the food pouch is on my waist on the left and my left hand feeds. Feed on the ground!! I have found that when the other dog or dogs make eye contact with my boy, he ramps up. A dog sniffing the ground defuses the situation and bold dogs see my guy eating off the ground and turn away and ignore him--no interest in my dog giving calming signals.

The clicker breaks my boy's concentration on the other dog and he looks to me or the ground for treats. My boy looks, I click, throw treats on the ground. We can to this 10 times in a row with one dog. The minute the dog disappears from sight--treat store is closed.

I have been taking a Reactive Rover class and my boy is very much improved. I really see hope that this issue can really be minimized. Good luck!

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperG View Post
Thanks for the replies and personal experiences...it is helpful. The different twists some of you used to the method I am using are interesting...

Steve...I agree that some bad behavior is as you suggest...worth more than a food morsel...could you expand on your " ignore that, this is better" approach....you have my curiosity.


Thanks,


SuperG
That was meant as just a broad, generalization of what your doing with her, but the idea of there's no satisfaction from looking at that dog, paying attention to me has some benefit, will have a certain limit, depending on the dog and what kind of foundation you put on her.

In even more broad terms, but specific to my dog. I play with him, a lot. Around people, and different things. In different places, everyday. It just makes it easy to make distractions, not be distractions so leave it, ignore that, etc, is pretty easy.

My rott, it was different. First he had to learn he wasnt going to do what ever he wanted, then he figured out the only fun would be doing what I wanted him to do. Complete opposite of the shepherd, but the end was the same. The common theme though, is its not up to them to decide. When it comes to bad behavior, reactive or whatever term, I don't like the idea of letting them do what they want and then choose not to or when to stop. If it works for someone, they'll think its great and for them it is. I'm more comfortable with obedience to me.

Doc

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Steve,

Appreciate the elaboration on your original response....This I like..."In even more broad terms, but specific to my dog. I play with him, a lot. Around people, and different things. In different places, everyday. It just makes it easy to make distractions, not be distractions so leave it, ignore that, etc, is pretty easy."...I get the "specific".

I also sense the emphasis you place on obedience...I'm sure it is more of a priority than many other dog owners...your closing comment " I'm more comfortable with obedience to me." appeals to me....it's a mentality which matches mine...there are no options just proper behavior...everybody wins....unfortunately in this situation, I still struggle at times getting the dog to connect the dots. Overall, this shepherd is head and shoulders above any dog I have ever had ( obedience wise )...just need to iron out a wrinkle or two...and I fully intend to....never should have let this particular problem ever allow itself to get to this point....another lesson learned via my failures.


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