You might start by imprinting some self discovery, which helps a pup realize if he offers certain behaviors, good things happen. I would carefully manage his food intake to maintain high food drive and hopefully he will naturally have high food drive. With self discovery, make a place box. It is simply a rectangular wooden box with a short 2"x4" in the front and two longer 2"x4" 's on the sides. The back is open. Make it about 20" wide by 3' long with a sheet of plywood on the bottom. You might consider using a clicker, but you can mark with "good." Take the pup and the box to your training area. The pup can be off leash or drag a light line. As soon as he looks at or moves toward the box, mark and pay with food. Keep repeating that often and gradually increase the expectation with the goal of the pup getting in the box. Also, work on sits and downs. I would lure up and back for a sit and down under his chest so he downs by throwing his back feet out. You can use a clicker or verbal marker for this as well. Use a release command and add an engagement behavior like luring the dog into a fast spin after the release and pay with food. This helps with engagement, rear end awareness and coming into the static heel. As he progresses, I would suggest you teach a flip finish into the static heel. Since you are doing IPO, have the dog sit in front of you facing you and pay him. Then grab his leash (after he has been accustomed to the leash) about a foot from the collar with your right hand and lure him into heel while creating some opposition by pulling the leash to your right so he will pull oppositionally to the left where he will heel. To lure him into the correct position, have a small handful of food in your left hand with your hand in a fist and the bottom opening of your fist facing the ground so you can funnel the food to him rather than giving him a single piece at a time and having to move your hand away from where you are luring him. You want your hand at the center of the outside of your thigh. After he starts to get proficient at this, start working on quarter pivots keeping your hand in the correct position and creating opposition reflex with your right hand on the leash. Then move to heeling in motion starting with a step at a time and pay. Do a ton of sits and downs, static heels and pivots. If you use a ball on a string, teach him to want to bring the ball to you and stay engaged with you by having another ball. You can also work on the out with a second ball. Sometimes, possessive dogs want to keep the toy away from you so you want to encourage him to want it bring it back to you and use can use a long line to keep him near. ALso, teach him he will lose the ball if he doesn't grip it hard. With the early bite work, you could try tying a small bleach bottle to a buggy or dressage whip. Tractor Supply has them for about $10. If you use cloth, the pup can get an accidental bite because his teeth can snag the cloth and you want him to work for the bite and really grab and possess it. Doing IPO, you want to reinforce a pulling bite by giving the pup a win after he pulls the prey. I would use a pillow as the next prey object as he progresses. A leather covered pillow is best because it is slick and the dog has to bite hard so you can't pull it out of his mouth. I wouldn't imprint bite work by putting too much movement into the prey so that you are "begging" the dog to bite. Hopefully the pup will have very good prey drive and you won't need to put a lot of hectic motion into the prey because he is not going to see a helper wiggling a sleeve in a trial. These are a few ideas I have found helpful.