Developing a consistent bark and hold - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Developing a consistent bark and hold

What are some ways, from the handler's and helper's perspective, to maintain a bark and hold in position?
By that I mean a dog that likes to jump up, down, and all around then run forward hit the leash, back up, circle and start all over again.

I have moved from a harness to a collar for starters.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 10:36 PM
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Have you tried advancing the dog to the helper when it barks? As the dog barks you move forward. If the dog starts to spin or jump, stop the forward movement. Conversely, have the dog bark and the helper can move to the dog. The general idea is that strong barking gets the dog closer to the helper. Usually, if you move forward steadily the dog will not spin.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 10:53 PM
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A table or platform works great for teaching it. It will stop any spinning and keep the dog in a zone to set up and get a rhythm going. I think a prong collar works well, because the dog doesn't lean into it as they would a harness. A flat, fursaver or agitation collar may restrict or weaken the barking.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 11:05 PM
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First how old of a dog and are we talking work in a blind or in general?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 11:13 PM
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I wouldn't start in the blind, that comes later after you get the consistent powerful barking with confidence. The dog needs to be out of prey mode as well.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Dog is a year and a half. Very high prey drive.

Jim, yes that is how we are working it now. We have only done two sessions so far, and I am still working on timing and leash handling .
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Also..... not in the blind, out in the field.
We tried working on a platform but I am quite concerned about injury. It does not limit the leaping, which quickly resulted in badly skinned stifles.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 07:14 AM
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Have you been keeping constant pressure downward on the leash? I've noticed that with some dogs in my club, it limits the jumping and spinning. I think that better, more consistent barking will come with more experience/training. I do agree with Slamdunc as well when it comes to moving slowly towards the helper to introduce a correct bark and hold.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 10:36 AM
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If you back tie the dog, have the helper move forward only when the dog is barking. Have a second leash on the dog attached to a prong collar and give little (tiny, small) pops on the leash with the prong. Small pops will enhance the drive and barking. These are not corrections, a prong can be used to build intensity and cause intense barking in this way. Since you have the second leash, you can control the dogs movement as well. If the dog starts to spin or jump the decoy backs up. When the dog is barking and focused the decoy moves in. This is how I would try it for a SchH dog, a police dog would be a little different.

good luck,

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 10:48 AM
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Jim had had some good ides. But if this also only the dogs second session, do you think some of this might be displacement that the dog is showing since it does not know what to do in its own mind yet, as to how to handle the situation.
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