Interested in Schutzhund For my future pup - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Interested in Schutzhund For my future pup

So I was wanting to know a little more as far as training and prices for training a pup for Schutzhund? I have always admired German Shepherd's for being successful with this type of training and always wondered about it and would love to know much much more about Schutzhund. Any great books out there to read and learn more about it? online sites that are respected on the topic?

thanks guys, sorry for so many question throughout the forum!


EDIT: I know there are certain GSD's bred for this, are there GSD's that just can't do it? What is the Difference between one bred for Schutzhund and protection vs the other and can you spot it by just looking?

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 07:19 PM
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There was just a thread on schH books
Cost - depends on where you live as club costs vary. However the sport is time and can be very financially a challenge especially if you go to seminars and trial outside of where you live.
Schutzhund USA United Schutzhund Clubs of America - For the German Shepherd Dog
DVG: DVG AMERICA Main Menu

You can't "spot" a schH Dog on looks. Most workingline breeders breed a dog that is all-purpose. Schutzhund was used as breed suitability test when it was developed.

Going out to different clubs and asking questions and observing the dogs is a good place to start. That said if you want to do schH it is best to get a pup from a breeder who maintains those working traits in their lines. Do you have a pup picked out? Are the parents titled in SchH and have you seen them work? Those are questions I asked when I got a pup. Good luck

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sarah'sSita View Post
There was just a thread on schH books
Cost - depends on where you live as club costs vary. However the sport is time and can be very financially a challenge especially if you go to seminars and trial outside of where you live.
Schutzhund USA United Schutzhund Clubs of America - For the German Shepherd Dog
DVG: DVG AMERICA Main Menu

You can't "spot" a schH Dog on looks. Most workingline breeders breed a dog that is all-purpose. Schutzhund was used as breed suitability test when it was developed.

Going out to different clubs and asking questions and observing the dogs is a good place to start. That said if you want to do schH it is best to get a pup from a breeder who maintains those working traits in their lines. Do you have a pup picked out? Are the parents titled in SchH and have you seen them work? Those are questions I asked when I got a pup. Good luck
thank you for the explanation and links, at the moment I have no picked out a puppy but I am working on it. ill look for that book thread.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 08:02 PM
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Cost- You can start out fairly minimally. All you really need to start with is a collar, leash, dog, ball, and treats. Gear as you go can get expensive depending on how into it you get. Club and training fees vary regionally and depending sometimes on the level of the helper or trainer. The avergae that I have seen is $25 per session (usually once a week to start). Prepare yourself for the 4th phase of SchH...driving! Most people I know drive about an hour but I know some who drive 3 or 4 each way. Gas can get expensive. And of course seminars and traveling for trials can also get pricey. If DH and I go to a weekend seminar where we need a hotel and we're each a dog/handler team...it can easily run us $1000 for the weekend.

Time, like Sarah said, is a major committment. Saturdays are totally gone. Training usually runs 6-8 hours on weekends and 4-6 hours on weekday evenings. Generally people do NOT like it if you don't make an effort to stay.

Yes there are GSDs that cannot do it. There are in fact a great many, and a great many more that cannot do it well. Almost any dog can however "train" in SchH, and there are plenty of people out there learning on dogs that really are not going anywhere and will probably never title.

Your best bet in finding a puppy that will work is by going to a breeder that has dogs that they are working. Pedigrees that have BSP and WUSV competitors in recent generations are always a plus. Personally I don't like to just go by titles. I like to see scorebooks. There's a big difference between a parent that's a SchH3 dog that got a 72-76-81 and a dog that scored a 97-92-98.

I think you can spot a prospect by looking...or perhaps observing would be a better word. A confident pup that likes to play is usually a good sign. It's also helpful to look at how they play. There are plenty of puppy tests out there to help show you how to spot a working prospect. Although, if you are a novice your best bet is to speak with the experienced breeder that you have hopefully selected or to have someone more experienced help you select the puppy.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKlatsky View Post
Cost- You can start out fairly minimally. All you really need to start with is a collar, leash, dog, ball, and treats. Gear as you go can get expensive depending on how into it you get. Club and training fees vary regionally and depending sometimes on the level of the helper or trainer. The avergae that I have seen is $25 per session (usually once a week to start). Prepare yourself for the 4th phase of SchH...driving! Most people I know drive about an hour but I know some who drive 3 or 4 each way. Gas can get expensive. And of course seminars and traveling for trials can also get pricey. If DH and I go to a weekend seminar where we need a hotel and we're each a dog/handler team...it can easily run us $1000 for the weekend.

Time, like Sarah said, is a major committment. Saturdays are totally gone. Training usually runs 6-8 hours on weekends and 4-6 hours on weekday evenings. Generally people do NOT like it if you don't make an effort to stay.

Yes there are GSDs that cannot do it. There are in fact a great many, and a great many more that cannot do it well. Almost any dog can however "train" in SchH, and there are plenty of people out there learning on dogs that really are not going anywhere and will probably never title.

Your best bet in finding a puppy that will work is by going to a breeder that has dogs that they are working. Pedigrees that have BSP and WUSV competitors in recent generations are always a plus. Personally I don't like to just go by titles. I like to see scorebooks. There's a big difference between a parent that's a SchH3 dog that got a 72-76-81 and a dog that scored a 97-92-98.

I think you can spot a prospect by looking...or perhaps observing would be a better word. A confident pup that likes to play is usually a good sign. It's also helpful to look at how they play. There are plenty of puppy tests out there to help show you how to spot a working prospect. Although, if you are a novice your best bet is to speak with the experienced breeder that you have hopefully selected or to have someone more experienced help you select the puppy.
wow traveling is very expensive for these type of things! I bet this is more of a full time job and probably not for me since I will be starting college up for my major... I really want to do this one day so learning is never bad to do even if it is not in the near future....

I need to find me some good books to read!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 10:09 PM
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Just want to say...I think college is about the best time to add a dog and start training...You think you don't have time in college...working full time is way harder. Dog #1 came when DH was in Law School. He was rarely gone from the house for more than 6 hours and his schedule was WAY more flexible to fit in training. In 4 years of law school and post graduate work he graduated high in his class and he probably only missed training 3 times. Now that he's working he has ALOT less time (although we still train at club at least once a week).

It all depends on where your priorities are. $25 a week for training is way less than most people's bar tabs for a single night.

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G Aiko von Burkndeiros SchH 3, IPO3, FH, TC, KKL2 9-17-02 (Retired)


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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 10:16 PM
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It all depends on where your priorities are. $25 a week for training is way less than most people's bar tabs for a single night.
And you'll stay out of trouble!

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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haha that is true, so the training is about 25 a session? or what else do you need to add on top of that? and as long as you can keep training you can always compete when you can or it is necessary to make it to every single one? since being in college would mean not much income coming in you know to be able to afford thing like that
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 10:31 PM
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Many clubs charge an annual membership fee.
Some have the helper get paid or tipped when they work your dog. Gas $ should be figured into it if you have to drive far to the club, I pay at least $25 in gas alone and then tip my helper as well as the membership fee.
It is a huge commitment if you want to earn titles, and clubs do expect members to be regular in attending, as well as training at home to keep pace with your goals.
As far as equipment, minimal expenses and sometimes you can borrow a harness if there is one available. I like to have all my own stuff and it was over time accumulating so not a big hit at once.
Visit clubs in your area, see if it is something you want to do, books are fine, but being at a club will show you much more.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 10:38 PM
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My husband's (minimal!) cell phone plan is the same amount as my monthly club dues. It's true, in the end I pay FAR less for training than most people my age spend on bar tabs andcell phone plans, two things I don't partake in. I also carpool with a friend so we split gas. Besides the overhead costs of the dog and equipment, which aren't a "regular" thing since you don't get a dog constantly and you can re-use equipment for years, it's really more of a time and energy commitment than cost, but cost is more tangible.
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