Building Searches. How do you do it? - Page 3 - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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I've ran a few searches with Kimber this last week. Just something for fun. She's doing pretty well with them. I haven't really worked her in about 8 or so months, so she's out of practice and it shows. Over all I'm happy with them though,

In this one she is searching for a passive decoy. I didn't want her launching, but she had other ideas. This was far from a sterile environment, with people and dogs walking all through it before we started and stuff getting moved around. Overall I'm happy with it.


This next one, she was the last dog to go. We had worked multiple dogs all through the shop, there was bite gear all over in various places. I had the decoy hide and only expose about 6 inches of his leg. I hadn't done something like this with her, and honestly was curious how she'd do with it. She did great with it! No real hesitation and just bit what she could get. She was having fun!

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 06:02 PM
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Nice work and really nice dog!

One thing I would recommend would be to get the dog "capped" or contained before sending the dog. I would make the dog quite during your warnings or commands at the front door. I do not allow our dogs to bark or whine before being sent in. The dog must be quiet and not barking or leaking drive. Yelling commands over a barking dog is problematic. Have your dog internalize that drive at the door and explode into the search when you give the search command.

Really nice dog!
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slamdunc View Post
Nice work and really nice dog!

One thing I would recommend would be to get the dog "capped" or contained before sending the dog. I would make the dog quite during your warnings or commands at the front door. I do not allow our dogs to bark or whine before being sent in. The dog must be quiet and not barking or leaking drive. Yelling commands over a barking dog is problematic. Have your dog internalize that drive at the door and explode into the search when you give the search command.

Really nice dog!

Thank you very much for the critique. Getting her to stop barking has been a hard one. When I was working her consistently it got much better. Unfortunately she suffered a back injury (my fault) last April and has been basically a house dog since. Her back is the reason I didn't do any high finds or anything that needs her to jump.

We were doing her Police Dog 3 title in WDA. There is a building search in that and they want the dog barking at the door. To my knowledge it's a deterrent to someone in the house if this were a real situation. So how I was working it, was alerting her, making the announcement, then having her down and be silent for a second before sending her in. I noticed this helped her a ton to get into the correct drive. I could hear a substantial difference in her breathing. Even in these videos you can hear when she's hunting versus when she's looking. In the second video you can see me half a$$ get her into a down and quiet before sending her.

A method I've been reading about a lot lately is having a the dog silent like you're saying and even having another officer even from a separate location make the announcement then having the dog sent in so the "suspect" doesn't know where the dog is actually coming from. This makes a lot of sense to me. I can see the reason for both methods depending on the situation.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 07:44 PM
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For me the dog has to be quiet when the warnings are given. For us there are very specific Supreme Court case law that requires the dog to be quiet during warnings. The reason is to give a suspect a chance to give up upon hearing the warnings. It also gives any innocent people in the building to come out and avoid being bitten. If a suspect claims he never heard the warnings, because the dog was so loud, and thought it was just a dog barking outside we open ourselves up to serious liability. The other reason is that there are times when it is not safe or tactically sound to give warnings nor do we want the dog to give us away.

We do have other people give warnings for us and I may target my dog and send him from a distance into a building, across a parking lot or street for example.

Having the dog remain quiet is easy to teach for the warnings, then give a command to "fire off" if that is needed. Getting the dog to bark on command is even easier.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-08-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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That makes complete sense. IÂ’ll work on that moving forward. Thank you for the advice!

Our new adventure is going to be narcotics. Should be easier on her back than bite work. SheÂ’s probably the best dog IÂ’ll ever own, and need to keep her working haha.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 06:37 PM
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If you need any help or tips on getting her to be quiet at the door let me know, same with the narcotics work.

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Absolutely!!! I'm always open to advice, tips and training techniques. I've worked on some quiet type commands before searches before. Just nothing I spent a ton of time on. I did some at the last KNPV seminar I went to. She had to have a quiet command before one of the wooded searches.

As far as the narcotics work, I know just enough to think I know something and screw it up haha. Well I like to think I'm a little better than that, but either way. I've done a little bit in the past, but nothing as formal as I'm going to do this go around. I'm planning on starting each odor individually. I know there is the stew method, and I've done some of that in the past, but in my head, working each odor independently will give her a stronger understanding of it. Since I'm doing this for my own experience and fun, I am not on a time crunch. I'm getting cocaine and meth first. Should be here any day now.

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