Won't stop pulling, even with prong corrections. - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Won't stop pulling, even with prong corrections.

I've had Niko for about 2 and a half months now. He's always been a pain during walks. I can't get his attention for anything. I started with a harness, then a choke chain, and have been using the prong for a month now with minimal improvement.

He will trot to the end of the leash and I'll pop the collar and he will slow down just to trot to the end of the leash again. I can do this the entire walk with him doing the exact same thing.

If I pop and stop he will come back to me circle around my back and go right back to the end of the leash.

It seems the only times I ever get his attention is when I pop the collar extremely hard.

I've experimented with the number of links to see if a tighter fit would make a difference to no avail.

I've also had 4 1 hour to hour and a half sessions with a trainer working with the collar. In the end he just said to keep working at it. We never worked on the no pulling though, just heeling. Which he now knows but doesn't perform for me unless indoors or its in the middle of the night with less distractions.

I guess I'm wondering if I should continue to pop the collar as hard as needed to get a reaction or just move to something like an E-collar to save his neck?

I would also like to add that I have tried food and toys to motivate. None of which he cares about when outside. The food will work for a few minutes then hes off to smell the wind.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 09:23 PM
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Prong needs to be high up on the neck and snug. Dog needs to be WITH you for a correction to work. So if the dog's running to the end of the lead, it's too late. You should correct the second the dog breaks the 'heel'. The pop needs to be fast, straight up, and semi-hard. I have NEVER had a dog not react to a prong, and I've had some wicked pullers in the past. Praise the heel (if he's not interested in food) and correct breaking the heel. Sounds like your correction issue is it's coming too late, and that's where the issue is. If the prong is moving around on his neck, it's too loose.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jag View Post
Prong needs to be high up on the neck and snug. Dog needs to be WITH you for a correction to work. So if the dog's running to the end of the lead, it's too late. You should correct the second the dog breaks the 'heel'. The pop needs to be fast, straight up, and semi-hard. I have NEVER had a dog not react to a prong, and I've had some wicked pullers in the past. Praise the heel (if he's not interested in food) and correct breaking the heel. Sounds like your correction issue is it's coming too late, and that's where the issue is. If the prong is moving around on his neck, it's too loose.
This^^^^ When the prong is on I expect Stella to heel. If I release her from the heel and she starts to pull, it's right back to a heel. The heel command needs to be in place for the prong to be most effective.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:03 PM
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Your dog should learn to heel but also to walk on a loose leash further from you, not in heel. The amount of distance/leash he has is up to you. It sounds like you are walking him this way now-continue correcting just before he hits the end of the leash, then praise when he looks/moves back to you, but keep moving(quickly). You can also try a Halti or head collar. Be sure to get him to accept it first with really good treats! This head collar keeps him from pulling because his head just turns. Good luck
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:12 PM
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What everybody else said. Get a private session with a trainer in your area, they will be able to show you how to use it correctly and when and how to administer corrections. The downfall to punishment and 'training tools' (i.e prong collar, choke collar, head haltis , etc.) is that it always has to be re administered. You can wean your dog off it eventually.. I prefer to always walk with the prong unless we're in the middle of nowhere and my dog is on a long line.

If you find after using the prong correctly, you're still not getting the results you want, opt for smaller prongs. I call them mircoprongs, really they're just prongs people would try to use on smaller dogs. More prongs, and smaller = more ouchie. GSDs I find, have a very high pain tolerance. Always remember when you're walking to give your dog the benefit of slack, otherwise you're just directing him, not walking him which is no fun for anybody. Proper way to hold the leash is hold the end of the leash in right hand, and hold with the left hand to snap the collar.

Good luck .

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:18 PM
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The second he gets a little in front of you turn around and go the other way... Worked for me...
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:24 PM
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Look up on leerburg on how to fit a prong to make sure its on correctly. Also the small links work better, just buy more to add if you need to for your dog.

If you want to start off rewarding with treats skip his last meal so he's nice and hungry.
Turning and going the other way usually works also.
Sometimes a game of fetch or something to get that initial burst of energy before the walk helps them to focus better on you during the walk.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:24 PM
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Here's what worked for me. Stop. The instant the leash comes tight stop. Don't move, no matter how long it takes, until the leash is loose. Keep the leash short. This is boring but after a couple mornings of almost no walking Markus figured out that a tight leash means no progress.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:29 PM
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He has no idea what you want. How is his focus? Does he ever "check" back in with you while walking? Have you done any clicker training?




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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 11:07 PM
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He has no idea what you want - got to agree with this . Start all over again . The dog should never get to the point where he is running out the length of the lead. You have created a pattern where he will repeat running to the end , self-correct (by restriction of the lead and the leash correction) and restart.
By start all over I mean to say that you will need to show the dog where you want him positioned while out walking.
So for the first while you are not going to go on some marathon walk , where his and your attention will drift and old habits return . Several times per day put this dog on lead -- go out to the sidewalk or quiet street or up and down your own driveway and walk 20 , 30 feet , correctly . The dog is to be in the same place every time you walk . Left side is traditional. His shoulder to your knee . The two of you take a few steps , at YOUR pace and speed , and then you stop and you insist on a sit . You move again when YOU are ready, not when the dog gets twitchy . Take control . The dog isn't to sniff and drag you from place to place to mark . The dog goes with you on your walk , not the other way around . Many quick sessions , building on success , eventually becoming longer without reverting to old pulling habits . Show your approval when he does right. Start each walk with a refresher session to remind him what is expected from him and then be consistent .

I will add that new rules apply in the house as well - nothing wrong with a little more structure - let him earn his "freedom" . So while you are preparing meals the dog does not need to rumble around the house and get in to mischief , do as he pleases . Have him on a scatter mat , relaxed , but on the mat . He gets up, you put him right back . He'll look to you with more respect .

Last edited by carmspack; 10-28-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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