1. Potty Time: Make a square in your yard about 4feetX4feet using long wood beams (like 2X4s or something). Next time your dog goes on the hill, scoop it up and then put it into this square in your yard. From now on take your dog out on a leash to this box to potty. If he doesn't go, bring him inside (and watch him carefully) and try again in 20 minutes or so. When he does start to go tell him "go potty" and give him a treat and praise. Take him to this spot frequently on leash and reward with a treat every single time for 2 weeks. Do you best to avoid letting him go elsewhere for the 2 weeks. You can use the same "go potty" for pooing and peeing or use different commands, but basically same idea.
2. Before bed ritual: See above, take him out before bed, tell him to go. When he goes, reward him and then in a little bit put him to bed. If he whines or cries do not take him out. You are only rewarding the whining and crying if you let him out. Just tough it out for a few days and ignore the crying. He will figure out he better go because your not letting him out again until morning.
3. Offering behaviors: Wait longer, he eventually will do something other than sit and stare at you and the bag. You need to teach him how to offer behaviors, so at first don't necessarily start with a behavior in mind. Get the clicker and treats out and wait, when he does something other than sit and stare at you, click and treat it. Have you tried the box game? Another thing some people don't realize is that when you are delivering your treat you can deliver it in such a way that you are somewhat luring the next approximation you want. So if I was trying to shape my dog to lay down and I had clicked a slight head bob downwards I would feed the treat down lower than the dog had actually put his head. Some dogs need that extra bit of help.
You may need to also work on your timing without the dog. When watching TV or a movie keep the clicker in your hand and click every time someone blinks or something like that. Another thing to try is bounce a tennis ball, click when it reaches the highest point and click again right when he hits the floor. Another is to work with another person. Pick something they are doing and click it, keep at it until they can guess correctly what you are clicking for. It can be blinking, taking a deep breath, scratching their head, shifting their weight. This also helps the person clicking realize how much our dogs have to actually weed through to realize what we are clicking for. Work on your timing with the click.
A) Dead dog. You can capture, shape, lure or model the behavior you want.
If want to capture just carry the clicker and treats around with you. When you see him flop onto his side, click and treat it. Doesn't matter the time of day or whether you are in a training session or not. Just click/treat the behavior when you see it. Soon he will start offering in hopes of a c/t. When he is offering it regularly simply add the command/signal when you see him start to do it.
Shaping you need to break the behavior down into little pieces and work your way up to the entire behavior. So, if he is in a sit you might start by clicking for a weight shift to the side and work up from there. First he needs to learn how to offer things though (see above). Once you have the full behavior you want and your dog is doing it 90% of the time perfectly you can add the command as your dog starts to do the behavior.
To lure it, you use a treat or target to your dog to do what you want. This can get tricky because then the dog can become dependent on the lure/target and not really realize what he is doing that is getting the treat (he thinks he is just following the lure). Lure it using a treat only 2 or 3 times and then see if he will just follow your hand, and then give the reward from the other hand. Say the command as you start to see the dog going down.
Modeling the behavior is physically manipulating the dog into the behavior, I don't recommend doing that for this personally.
B) Open. I would like him to learn to open the fridge door.
Again, first he needs to learn to offer behaviors. Once he has figured that out. Start by click/treat for looking at the towel. Then wait a few minutes, if he makes any movements towards the towel, click and treat. Do that couple of times. Then hold out for him touching the towel, click and treat that a few times. Then wait for some mouthing of the towel, click and treat. Then more mouthing, with a bit more teeth, then keep building up until he is putting it in his mouth completely. Then wait for a bit of tugging action and build that up. Once he is actually opening the fridge, name the behavior.
C) Perch training. I think you might need to work on your timing a bit and teach him the game of offering behaviors first, then work on this again.
4. Tug: You can clicker train this the same way you would with opening the fridge. You can also try a toy that you stuff with food to tug with.
5. Hide and Seek: You can do fake outs, walk around and then sit in a spot for a few minutes to create a scent pool and then leave it and go hide some where else. You can also hide his meals, make him work his food
6. Tracking basics: One of the easiest ways to start for tracking is to make a circle and put treats in each foot step. Make sure you jump into the circle and jump out, so there is some space around the circle. Do a few small circles a day for a few days and then start making them bigger. Then do little tracks with a treat in each foot step, with a small pile of food at the end. Then you can work on making them longer. Then work on getting rid of the food in the foot steps, start by putting a treat in every other foot step, then every 3rd, then mix it up, have treats in 2 in a row, and then the 4th after that, then the 2nd, then after 5 . . . and so on. Slowly fade the treats in the foot steps out. Doing turns can be problematic sometimes, start by making S shaped tracks and then slowly work on tightening up the turns. I would put food in the foot steps after the turns for awhile to reward the dog for getting the turn right.
For more hide and seek type stuff, hold the dog back and have the other person tease him with a toy or just by being goofy. Then have them run away and hide behind a tree or something, let the dog watch them run away. Then tell the do to "go find" and run with the dog as they get to the person. Do that several times, and then try one where the dog can't watch where they run to.