I wanted to add that at a year of age, you have no time to lose if your dog has not yet been getting much socialization outside of your home.
Before you start any of this, please review the free videos on the links below along with your wife, so you can become quite expert in picking up on signals that your dog is uncomfortable and you need to intervene and are progressing too quickly.
The earlier the better in terms of socialization and exposure to the outside world (within reason). However, this must be done in a logical and organized progression, starting with easy, relaxed, uncrowded settings and situations so that the dog has positive experiences and is not stressed. Progress at your dog's pace to more advanced situations and settings and stop at any signs of stress and go back to easier things until the dog is ready to progress again.
For instance, when introducing the dog to strangers, first start in uncrowded areas and let them just walk by. If possible, do this with people you know but the dog doesn't know, at first. Choose calm, relaxed, people who know dogs. If the dog is relaxed, let them approach, greet, and pet the dog. Progress to calm, friendly strangers. Add in kids after adults are going well, and use care. The high voices, darting movements, and unexpected actions can be unsettling to some dogs. Again, start with calm, dog-experienced, well-behaved kids progressing older to younger, and starting with kids you know (or know of), who will listen to directions.
If your dog seems less than enthusiastic at being petted by strangers that is fine as long as he/she is relaxed. He/she doesn't need to enjoy them touching, but does need to learn to accept it politely. While many people with assistance dogs elect not to let the public pet the dog, and even have the dog wear a sign or patch to this effect, members of the public will do so anyway.
In my experience, it is a disadvantage to have an overly friendly service dog become used to being petted while working, as the dog loses focus on his partner in trying to solicit pats from strangers. However, as an assistance dog partner with a more reserved GSD, which some people find intimidating by breed reputation, and who never solicited
attention from strangers in her life, it was an advantage to allow her to be petted while working in public. When people who fear shepherds or dogs in general see the dog be approached by a relaxed dog lover, it puts them at ease and helps to counteract their unfounded assumptions about the breed. It's a wonderful way also to educate the public as you chat, and to meet nice people.
Initially Perri was fairly indifferent toward strangers. Teaching her to shake hands with them changed nothing; she did it to please me. Except kids. She adored and was fascinated by children.
Our breakthrough came when I decided to stop encouraging her to be friendly and instead took her out for training with my husband Tim and his VERY friendly Lab, Prudence. If Perri didn't want to greet the strangers, I let the leash go loose enough that she could hang back a step or two while Pru, Tim and I met people and acted like they were the best thing since sliced bread. Pru got fussed over, and I made a big deal of what a GOOD GIRL Pru was. Perri soon decided she was missing out on a lot of fun. (Pru would have made a great politician. She loved nothing--except maybe water--better than greeting the public, shaking hands, and kissing babies ;-) ).
As your dog progresses in public places, advance from natural environments (parks, neighborhoods) to more suburban and then urban ones, and from very quiet and uncrowded to noisier and more crowded.
Keep in mind that some dogs may have issues with certain sexes, ages, or races of people based on a past experience or lack of experience. They may have issues with people in uniforms, funny hats, people with beards or mustaches, etc. etc. All these exposures should be pleasant and relaxed.
If your dog likes treats and knows to take them VERY gently, you can bring some healthy
treats and let people offer the dog a treat to build positive associations, but when in doubt they should toss the treat to the dog, and if you let them feed it directly, instruct that they put it in the flat of their open palm and let the dog gently take it so no fingertips get nibbled.
Watch for signs of stress such as panting and shedding, as well as all those covered in the following excellent videos:
Jean Donaldson's free videos on dog body language posted on YouTube. This is the link to Part One.
Watch parts Two through Six, available here:
YouTube - ‪PerfectPawsStudios's Channel‬‎
Zoom Room's guide to dog body language and to play gestures:
Learn to speak dog
You should also learn Turid Rugaas' Calming Signals. If possible, get the book and/or video. Your public library can probably get the book through interlibrary loan if you ask. These are signals dogs use to express discomfort with a situation, or to dissipate stress, so are important for you to pick up on. At times they use them to calm others (dogs, people). You can learn to use these same signals to calm your dog.
Be aware (and educate others) that dogs don't like to be hugged. In the dog world a paw across another dog's withers is a gesture of dominance, not friendship, so a person reaching to pet a dog across the withers (top of the back above the point of the shoulders) or reaching to throw their arms around the dog's neck to hug are not something dogs innately know to consider friendship gestures from enthusiastic humans. Doing this to some dogs is enough to elicit a growl or bite, especially when done by strangers or nonfamily members. Protect your dog from such human error until he or she is well advanced.
Eventually if your dog is able to be a service dog he or she must learn to tolerate the full range of human misbehavior and folly, whether your wife and you are relaxed or highly stressed, but these are advanced skills acheived through progressive socialization. If you build many positive experiences with public access, unfortunately, the unexpectedly inappropriate human behaviors will occur as you progress to less predicatable settings. By then you want your dog to view strangers of every description as nice, well-meaning but occassionally clumsy or inappropriate clods, whose foibles should be viewed as harmless and tolerated with grace and good humor.
Above all, try to have fun in this stage (as your dog will pick up on your emotions and those of your wife through your body language, tone of voice, breathing patterns, etc.), and to make this all fun for your dog. There is a saying in the dog world that the human's emotions travel down the leash to the dog, and it is absolutely true that your dog will be strongly influenced by how you and your wife are feeling, so keep it calm, relaxed, happy. If the dog misbehaves and you feel you've advanced beyond your or the dog's current capabilities, correct the dog (but accept this as likely arising out of some mistake of your own as the handler), then end things on a good note by having the dog obey an easy command, and praising. Then go home and regroup, and figure out how you need to do things differently.
Best of luck.