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post #41 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 02:27 AM
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Feathers, it is normal for a healthy dog to finish its kibble in less than a minute. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a dog eating that fast. I agree that trying to slow the dog down may be what has created the food aggression.

How old is the dog? I don't recall you saying that anywhere in your posts.

I remember my female shepherd going through a phase at about 5 or 6 months where she was getting more than the recommended amount of food on the dog food bag, and STILL looking like I was starving her. I think she was getting about 5 cups a day. (Can't recall exactly - she's 10 now, so it was a long time ago.)

Eventually, her growth slowed, and I was able to cut the amount of food back.

The only thing I've ever done before feeding my dog was tell it to 'sit'. Then, I'd put the bowl down and walk away.
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post #42 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 07:33 AM
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Feathers have you considered finding a trainer who can come to the house and work with you? It will likely cost more than a group class, but it would be better than doing nothing or trying to "fix" things on your own and inadvertently making them worse. If you can not leave your house a private one on one trainer may be your only other option. It sounds like you are in over your head and stressed out and taking the wrong route with this pup and setting up an unhealthy and distrusting relationship.

Have you spoken to your breeder about these issues? A reputable breeder should be willing to help. This may not be the right puppy for you and your situation. Best to figure that out now while the pup is still young and will be easier for your breeder to take back, retrain, and rehome.
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post #43 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:15 AM
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Bramble said --This may not be the right puppy for you and your situation. Best to figure that out now while the pup is still young and will be easier for your breeder to take back, retrain, and rehome.


Maybe NO dog at all is most suitable . It doesn't sound like either side of the family has good results with dog ownership.

You have to be realistic . The spouse is no help at all. The poster sounds like the dog can easily intimidate her and so problems are created.

I do wonder what the dogs exposure to the outside big world and what scares the owner . Dogs need a lot of guidance
at this age . That means supporting all their good behaviour so that it registers with the dog and becomes the norm, and quickly curtailing any deviations from what you want .

the handler gets the dog that he deserves --
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post #44 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:27 AM
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Because of how fast Varik ate as a pup (he still is a master class eater), I put a LOT of water in his bowl with his food .. as in swimming around in a soup. I didn't wait for it to soften, I just used it to slow him down.

How old is the pup again? And how much are you feeding? Being so frantic still seems to me to be actual hunger and not necessarily just wanting to control the food.

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post #45 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:56 AM
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if the pup is one and the same as in the avatar then that is one good looking pup .

could you post a picture of the dog ? pedigree?

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post #46 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 10:21 AM
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Steve Strom and Galathiel, yes, I have tried this approach as well. Didn't work. She just refused to calm down and was constantly tensed up.
Feathers, forget about every other dog and what they do or did. One thing that can be difficult is not really understanding what you're seeing with a different type of dog, then trying to apply all that other stuff to them.

Some dogs just eat every meal like its been weeks, and you aren't going to train them out of it. The things I mentioned are meant to change the association she has with you/food/excitement. That way there won't be the conflict or like someone mentioned, competition. It won't change with 1 or 2 times, it'll take a while. Being afraid is a problem. I think a little different management of situations can help you by creating that little bit of separation that calms her and you.I'd never mind any of the Ceasar stuff, you aren't going to dominate or submit this dog, and it doesn't make sense to try. She's going to have to respect you, but that's not going to come from teaching tricks. You have to be consistent over time. Re-read whats been posted, the walks, a crate, those things are control and structure without the fight.

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post #47 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 11:29 AM
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these are Feathers quotes from other threads --

"Thankfully, she's not fussy about food and gobbled everything up. The kibble size is sooooo cute too LOL! We shall know tonight if she has diarrhea again... Hopefully not...

I'm wondering though, am I reading the feeding recommendations right? At 3-4 months old, I feed her 6+ cups a day? And that's assuming she will be a 60lbs dog full grown? What if she'll be 70-80lbs? 10 cups?

So feeding her just 3 cups a day is UNDER-feeding? I'm so confused"

same thread
"She is actually very ribby right now. She puts on a pot belly after meals, but once she poops, her stomach shrinks in until she looks emancipated and just ugly. I'm hoping it's only because she's not actually absorbing much from the purina and because of her growth spurts, but looking at the feeding recommendations, maybe I was indeed under-feeding immensely! o.O"

"Yeah, my puppy is too wiggly and bouncy to get a pic for you guys to tell me if that's good or feed more too. She came to us literally a skeleton, tbh. And she's never been chubby since we got her. I feared overfeeding due to accelerated growth and bone problems, so she constantly stayed skinny. Not forgetting how she's just been getting bigger and bigger..."

previous pup history -- diarrhea

more - same thread
"I was feeding her a cup 3 times a day but switched to a cup and a half twice a day because of how voraciously she started attacking the food. I'm gonna go back to 3 times a day though, now that I'm giving her Fromm. I'm hoping that once she finds out she no longer constantly feels hungry that she'll slow down... My golden did lol... "

good advice from Nancy J "Actually Fromm was one of the foods I would soak for at least 30 minutes before feeding because it does swell up (at least the Fromm LBPG did) ; I forgot about that but then I realized I always soak my dog food because I would rather any swelling occur in the bowl and not their stomachs. FWIW, been doing it for years. No tartar issues.
I started soaking to keep the dogs from choking on the food because of wolfing it down"

good advice especially if you are providing diatomaceous earth as a vermifuge -- you do not want the dog
to inhale DE - food grade -- and definitely not pool grade --- be careful how you handle it yourself

Feathers again "Only thing is, like a human baby, I have to wipe up her snout because she gets so messy from it lol. "

carmspack -- no you don't , let the dog eat in peace . Managing in all the wrong places ----- get the spouse to get you into a training class --- you are the person responsible for the dog - then YOU get yourself into a class

YOU know why you have a problem "Magwart, we have tried blocking her from having easy access to the food with our fists and tennis balls... Honestly, I think that was what caused her to start showing signs of food aggression... The blockage made her even more frantic to get the food. Now, everytime we touch her while she's eating, she'll pause for a couple seconds, breathe hard, (she growled and snarled at me before) then start scooping as much food into her mouth as she possibly can *just in case* the food gets taken away. It's weird, we've never taken her food away without letting her finish eating before. I've now been letting her inhale this way while constantly rubbing her head until she finished. She is SO afraid of not getting to eat "\\

Okay -- this is not meant in any disrespectful way whatsoever ---
You said
"Must be the asian in me, "

that explains a lot - cultural -- I live in a region blessed by diversity of different cultures including a large Asian population . Markham has an enclave of monied professionals which is victim to home-invasion.
So over the years I have had several clients buy a dog and training services which would include training sessions in Cantonese or Mandarin, neither one of which I speak --- but phonetics and cue cards or pen on palm help work it out.

I love the idea of multi-generation families .
The idea behind the additional non-english training was to accommodate the grandma generation who stayed home to mind the grand childrens needs while the parents were away working at their careers .
Even if English was not a problem , when a person is in a crisis situation they revert to the most original , most familiar language .
Those clients were so pleased I ended up sending dogs to Hong Kong .

But I know --- that there is an underlying fear of breeds such as GSD . When I did my training I would either go into the Kensington market area of Toronto, or Broadview and Gerrard , Toronto, or the Pacific Mall , area .
People would scatter -- . The dog would be totally neutral - not inciting this reaction .
It is just a cultural thing .

so , understandable then why your extended family has the dogs the way they are --- but you don't have to follow --

the dog needs training . YOU need to feel comfortable when the dog is "lively" and spirited . You need to be able to
have a strong voice with authority.
You do have a property line, fence , shared at the back of your house - and those two houses apparently have 2 dogs each .
I can imagine young GSD and the other dogs having contact there and being stimulated by barrier frustration and territory aggression.
You need to be able to control your dog .
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post #48 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feathers View Post
My puppy started displaying food aggression a month+ ago and I've been trying to train her to accept that she can be touched while she ate and the food wasn't going to disappear besides into her own mouth and tummy. Things seemed to improve as she stopped growling much although she continued to vacuum her food as if she hasn't eaten in months or she's afraid the food will disappear. I allowed her to chomp away and I've probably been doing it wrong because today, she got worse.

She kept growling at me while licking her food, then suddenly bared her teeth, snarled and took a huge bite.
Definitely stop trying to train her to accept being touched while she eats. There is no need for that, and it's not going to help her learn that food isn't going to disappear. Clearly, it's making her nervous and if you continue down that path you could end up with a situation like the CM video that Carmspack posted, which is a sad case of well intentioned people following bad advise towards an easily predicted outcome. Dogs will not resource guard if they trust that you aren't going to start randomly yanking away valued things. Build trust. Be consistent, be fair. It truly is that simple.

I was very proactive when Halo was a puppy, more so than with any of our previous dogs. I taught her to bring me things, rewarded her with a treat, then gave her the thing back. We named all the toys, so I could ask her to bring me the _______ (whatever), happy praise, yummy treat, "okay, take it", and she got it back again. I did that every day with a variety of things. We played tug, I asked her to drop it, rewarded with a treat and we played tug some more. I held a bone while she chewed it, offered her a treat, marked it ("yes!" or with a clicker) when she let go of the bone and ate the treat, and released her to take the bone again. With a tug or a bone, I maintained ownership of the item by continuing to hold one end. When we were done I simply didn't give it back after rewarding her for letting go. For ball play, I taught her to drop the ball for a treat and then I threw the ball again. Eventually, resumption of play became the sole reward and I could fade out food rewards. It was all struggle free, and she learned that giving up something didn't mean she'd never get it back again, which built trust. So when she had something she wasn't supposed to have, she'd still bring it to me because of the large bank of trust. I'd thank and reward her, and put it away. At some point she could have decided it wasn't worth it to bring stuff to me anymore because I might not give it back, but that never happened due to the solid foundation of training I had done. It also helped prevent keep away games, where you end up chasing our dog all over the house to get something away from them. Instead she liked bringing me things so much that she made it a game. She will bring me an Orbee ball and I take it away and give it back a couple of times before she's satisfied and then she goes off and chews it. Or she brings me a bone to hold for her while she chews it:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Magwart View Post
Remind yourself that a food-motivated dog is super-easy to train because they'll work so very hard for their reward. Use that to your advantage! This is the only way I "mess with" dogs when eating. It's either part of training and working together, or the dog eats in peace. One or the other --- but not taking food away, sticking my hand in their bowl, or otherwise aggravating the dog eating from a bowl.
Excellent post, Magwart! When I have a young puppy I do some hand feeding out of the bowl, which I maintain possession of. But once I'm done and give the dog the food, I never take it away, or stick my hand in the bowl, or mess with the dog. I will sometimes stand nearby and drop good stuff in the bowl though. My presence during mealtimes is either neutral, or predicts something being added, like freeze dried liver raining into the bowl of ordinary kibble, never anything being taken away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feathers View Post
She is very very food motivated, to the point where she just goes crazy. She's willing to do her tricks for like, 1 second, then you have to treat her or she starts bouncing around.
Impulse control! I expand on that below, but she needs to learn that her behavior determines when she gets the food. I teach my dogs from the time they're young puppies to sit and wait while I put their food bowl down, and then release them to eat. If at any point they break the sit, I immediately pick the bowl up and wait for them to sit again. You may need to do this a half dozen times when you first try it, but she will figure it out. In the beginning I make it very easy, releasing to eat the second the bowl touches the floor. I gradually make it more difficult, working up to setting down the bowl and standing up all the way before releasing, then taking a step away from the bowl, etc. Eventually I can put the bowl right in front of the dog and walk 5 or 6 feet away before releasing. Our dogs are both adults now and they still get excited and spin in circles while I'm preparing their meals, but as soon as I pick up the bowls, they sit and give me eye contact. I don't need to say a word, I just wait for them to do it. I put down the bowls, close the gate between them (they eat in the garage - one in the enclosed pen, one outside it), and then say "okay". One time when Keefer was young, ONCE, he started to eat before I told him he could. I said "oops!" picked up his bowl, set it on the counter and made him wait until Dena was done eating before giving it back to him. Never tried it again!

In this photo Halo is about the same age as your puppy. My husband put down the food bowl, and she's looking at him, waiting for him to say okay:



BTW, I'm not a fan of CM in general, but I do like your idea of him smacking some sense into your husband!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mspiker03 View Post
As for training leave it - I have never let the dog have the "leave it treat" and use a different treat to reward the "leave it." If they were constantly allowed to eat whatever they are supposed to "leave it", you could create some anticipation/frustration/confusion. In a real application of leave it, i probably don't ever want them to grab whatever I am asking them to leave it.
Agreed. Leave it means you don't ever get the thing, and you reward with something else. I've done "leave it" exercises using a dog biscuit on the floor, and also a bowl filled with goodies. After we're done, I pick up the biscuit or the contents of the bowl and put them in my treat bag. The reward always comes from me. If I'm working with a toy, like training the dog not to jump up and grab a tug for example, I usually use the "wait" command. They're going to get it, just on my terms and at my discretion. Initially, I ask for a sit and eye contact ("watch") before releasing the dog to take it, but eventually that becomes a default behavior so I don't need to say anything. It's automatic, because they understand that's what's required to get what they want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feathers View Post
Which reminds me to ask: How do treat bags work? I mean, don't they get dirty from the treats? Or do you put the treats in a ziplock bag and then into the treat bag?
Depends on what kind of treats you use. if I'm using something gunky or that needs refrigeration, I put them in a ziplok bag, which is easy to remove and put back in the fridge when I'm not using my treat bag. But there are plenty of treats that don't need that. If she's as food motivated as you describe, you can simply use her kibble as training treats, or at least mix it with a small amount of something more interesting. When Halo was a puppy, i'd measure out her lunch kibble, toss it into the treat bag, and whatever I didn't use for training went into her bowl for her to finish. I took her first week home off work, and after that I took long lunches for another month or so, and came home mid-day to spend time with her. Breakfast she got exclusively in her bowl because there was no time for training, but I did the same thing with her dinner kibble - measured it out and did a little training with it first. This is my favorite treat bag - it's large enough for treats and also a ball on a rope, it has lots of pockets for other stuff, including poop bags. I put $20 in the zip pocket on the back, my ID in the front pocket, and my cell phone drops easily in the smaller pocket inside the main pocket where the treats go: https://www.chewy.com/doggone-good-r...reat/dp/143031

This package from Chewy is particularly good since it comes with the belt (sometimes sold separately), a clicker, and a wrist strap. I put my clicker on a wrist strap, and hook it to one of the D-rings. Many other treat bags have metal hinges on the sides, which inevitably break. I prefer the magnetic closure on this one.

One of the things I really like to work on from the very beginning is impulse control exercises. That sounds like something that could really benefit you with your girl. The It's Yer Choice game by agility trainer and competitor Susan Garrett is sort of a default leave it, because the dog is not given any commands. It's basically a game of red light, green light, here the dog learns that the way to get the food in your hand is to stop trying to get the food in your hand. I like to add eye contact as an additional criteria, but you don't have to do that right away if you don't want. Polite behavior around food gets reinforced, pushy behavior doesn't get anything. I did this with Halo every day for weeks.


The more food motivated the dog is, IME, the faster and easier they figure out how to make the food happen.

-Debbie-
Cava 1/6/18 *** Keefer 8/25/05
Halo 11/9/08-6/17/18 ~ You left pawprints on our hearts
Dena 9/12/04-10/4/08 ~ Forever would have been too short
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post #49 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delay in replying, but that was a lot of information to process. I'll first answer some of the questions about the puppy... This is gonna be a looong post...

She did not come from a reputable breeder and we never saw her parents. We bought her from a random guy who posted the advertisement on Hoobly Classifields. On April 20th, we went to a Meijer's parking lot and had a choice between 2 girls. My husband until now, still say he thought he was going to get shot. I don't remember if the guy told us her birthdate but I do remember that she was about 8-9 weeks old. He was supposed to send us pictures of the parents as well as her vet papers, but they never came. He never registered her parents and she does not have papers either. Perhaps that was why we got her cheap for a GSD at $450. So we have no idea if she is a 100% GSD or has mixed blood or anything about her past before she came to us. She should be about 18 weeks old now.

The first night we brought her home.
Food Aggression Trainer-20170420_231337.jpg

Not sure if you can see her rib sticking out there, as she was very fluffy from her baby fur, but she came to us a skeleton...
Food Aggression Trainer-20170426_185514.jpg
Food Aggression Trainer-20170422_104711.jpg

She is now averaging 30lbs and I have been feeding her 3 and a half cups of Fromm Gold LBP per day. I have been separating that into 1 and 1/4 cup breakfast and dinner, and 1 cup for lunch. Her waistline was terrible during Purina, but it has been improving now and her ribs are no longer sticking out as if she was emaciated. If you guys think I should change my feeding to twice a day, then I'll try that too. And yes, I add water if I'm adding the DE. I know better than to attempt feeding her powder. I don't enjoy eating powder myself...

This was June 8th, when she got her new squeaky toy.
Food Aggression Trainer-20170608_123433.jpg

This is today, in her bed. Yes, she got lighter, then darker...
Food Aggression Trainer-20170623_200521.jpg

Am I afraid of the puppy (Aiya)? I don't think so. I think I'm afraid of what she CAN be. I see my sister-in-law's dog (Rascal), and I see my husband's parents' dog (Lucky); I most definitely fear her becoming like Rascal. What my husband sees on the other hand, is Aiya becoming like Lucky, who is very well behaved, has never bitten anyone, and is very reserved in her barking/growling which she rarely does. Lucky is by no means, a perfect dog, but everyone would say that she acts as if she has gone for obedience training which she hasn't. That is what my husband thinks Aiya will be. I HOPE she will be like that, but I am nervous about the possibility of her being more like Rascal. I have never seen a dog attack someone before and have never experienced anything that would put this fear in me, but I'm also a pessimist and have heard plenty of stories.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
It is just a cultural thing .

so , understandable then why your extended family has the dogs the way they are --- but you don't have to follow --
My husband and his side of the family are Caucasians. I'm the Asian.

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Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
I don't know if a dog is right for you either --

whose idea was it ?
We both wanted a large breed puppy. We were actually looking for mixes at adoption agencies, but after having the first agency take forever to decide on an adoptee and after all that extremely long forms, hubby got annoyed and decided to just buy a puppy rather than adopt. I wanted a dog that had the sharp snout, pointy ears and manageable fur as I hated living with a golden. He decided on GSD because he had previous experiences with them when he was younger. I agreed to it because I thought we were BOTH going to handle the dog, like take evening walks together, train her together, etc etc. Turns out, I feed her, I walk her, I train her, I let her out and at first, I clean up her accidents. These days, I've been pushing him to do the clean ups. Basically, he wakes up, teases her, goes to work, comes home, plays with her, goes to sleep... and repeat... I didn't realize he wasn't going to agree to puppy classes either. I had definitely thought that was on the agenda if we got a dog. I had thought that unlike my parents, puppy classes was the norm here, just like vaccinations and vet visits was the norm...

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Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
so the dog lives in the kitchen -- does the dog get pushy for food when you cook - or eat
Not so much pushy for food, but she insists on sticking to your legs and tripping you. We tell her to go lay down in her bed. She's been doing that a lot more, but sometimes, we have to put her in the cage and close the door just to cook. We eat in the living room and she whines and whimpers because she's not able to get near us. Whether because she wants food or because she just wants to be close, I don't know. We don't feed her table scraps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
so never mind the food , what other issues are there -- how social is the dog when out in public , being walked ? Problems walking with some manners? Problems with seeing other dogs ?
What happens when you have guests or family to your house ?
Do you plan to have the relative's dogs , with all their wildness and bad manners come visit your home ?
How do you bond with the dog.
Besides food, she still has separation anxiety... mostly when the husband leaves. If we leave together, she tantrums even worse. When I leave, she whines for a couple seconds, then calms down. I don't make a fuss when I leave and have done so from the beginning. She is VERY social, she loves people, always friendly approach. She enjoys jumping on people and licking them, and mostly, people allow it because they think it's cute. Again here: I see the possibility of the attack dog, others see the fluff ball that is "dawwwwwsoadorableawwyougivingmekisses"...

She walks very distractedly. She likes sticking close to people's legs and tripping them, a lot like cats. I don't let her sniff around or lead the walk and I keep her on a short leash so that I don't end up with a dog that pulls, though I'm sure if given the chance, she WILL pull

With Lucky, she quickly learned her place, but with their other dog (Cuddles), a miniature pincher, Aiya seems to like bothering her. Even after multiple corrections. Cuddles doesn't like her, especially now that she's bigger than a min pin, so their relationship ends up being one where Cuddles is constantly trying to get away, constantly growling and snarling at Aiya. We don't plan on ever introducing her to Rascal.

I don't play with her all that often, hubby does that most. I'm just the one who is there all day. I've placed my laptop on the kitchen table and that's where I usually sit. That's also how I've been watching her, corner of my eye and stuff. Lately though, I've been watching movies in the living room. I started doing that when we got a baby gate to block off the kitchen as well as a potty bell, so I'm not constantly in the kitchen anymore. When I am, I basically just ignore her, sometimes pet her when she comes up to me. But otherwise, she's left to entertain herself. I wouldn't say we have much of a bond, really.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
If a class is out of the question for what ever reason , can the breeder provide some hands on help .
The breeder is no longer in contact with us. After selling us the puppy, that was the last we heard of him, no pictures of parents, no vet papers, so definitely no training help...

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
Maybe the dog would do better with one big satisfying meal -- wolf it down and then go for a snooze --- instead of these scheduled , timely , measured meals which leave the dog hungry in between , never satisfied --( fullness is satisfying -- ) . Maybe the amounts are recommendations on a bag - but your dog is an individual -- might not be adequate for your dog - or as nourishing as the food should be.
Every morning, her ribs stick out again... IS one big meal better? Would that leave her looking emaciated once she poops after that meal? I've fed her 2 cups at once before due to missing her lunch if I had to go out, she finishes the 2 cups, has a pot belly, and then waggles around as if she ate too much (like a drunk person, really) and starts burping... like a drunk person... I was told to avoid increasing her food for a few weeks because Fromm was a lot more nutritious than Purina.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
the dog is always with you , but no one knows how the two of you relate - and you constantly watch the dog - that isn't fun for you and it isn't fun for the dog .
I'll admit, I've been feeling miserable once I started realizing that I'm doing all the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmspack View Post
are you in a house , do you have a yard , are you able to put a little safe kennel outside for the dog
Yes, we have a house, and a fenced yard. We probably could put a kennel outside, but hubby doesn't want to spend money on that either...

The 2 arrows point to the two different yards where there are 2 dogs on each yard. So when they're out and she goes out to do her business or whatever, they rush to the fence and start barking and hollering.
Food Aggression Trainer-20170623_193918.jpg

I keep her on a long chain attached to that yellow clothes line above the 2nd arrow, so she can't reach the back fence to have a barking match or anything like that. We do that because the yard behind the garage is not safe for her at this time. Previous occupants left behind a very old pond and other stuff that we haven't had the time to clear (since hubby works all the time right now - seasonal job). I myself have only been in the country since late February... She doesn't seem interested in barking back though, she just watches them, then comes back into the house.

Thanks for all the videos, I will look through them. I found a thread that said trainers sometimes accept trades, instead of the usual money for lessons... What kind of items would they usually want? I'm pretty good at crafting stuff, and perhaps this will give me access to an in-home trainer? How would I look for such a trainer anyway?

Last edited by Feathers; 06-23-2017 at 08:09 PM.
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post #50 of 91 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:55 PM
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Buying a cheap puppy from a sketchy character in a parking lot saves money in the short term, but it means that you have to spend more money later on trainers (and possibly veterinarians, but we won't worry about that now). Tell hub that he cheaped out on the purchase by not getting the pup with post-adoption support built into the price, so now he gets to spend the money on training. This is a consequence of his choice.

The vast majority of young GSDs that we get into breed rescue in my area come in between 6-18 months, with stories and issues like your pup's. Once they get big and stop being cute, the owners tend to give up on them. They get turned into lovely dogs in an experience foster home in about a month. It's that easy once you know the right thing to do. Until you know, though, you need to pay someone to help you.
However, some of them need an experienced owner, not a newbie with no access to training resources -- the whole point of breed rescue is working with someone who knows the difference between a "great first dog" and a "dog for an experienced handler," and has the courage to say "no" to an inappropriate match.

Had you gone through a good rescue and been patient, you'd have likely been matched with a dog appropriate to your skill set, and had all the follow-up support you could have wanted -- people who adopt my foster dogs can call me at 2AM when the dog vomits and they're not sure if they need an emergency vet, and we make post-adoption visits upon request to help with troubleshooting any issues, large or small. Yes, you have to be patient to be approved, and yes, we are careful about selecting people we want this kind of relationship with! Good rescues ask for all that info because they want a good match -- and they say N-O when we think it's a terrible match. You'd have also likely had that same kind of support from a reputable breeder had you spent what a well bred dog costs. Many of them ask as many questions as rescues do and are just as willing to decline to place a pup in an inappropriate home. Both good breeders and rescues take dogs back if it doesn't work out, so neither wants to set a pup up for a return. Having both been too impatient for a well-matched rescue, and not wanting to spend the money to go through a good breeder who could have selected an appropriate pet pup, now you have to pay the piper with an excellent trainer to undo what's already gone wrong.

Tell hub he bought himself this problem, so now he has to step up and pay what it costs to fix things and make it right. This can still work out, but you NEED access to a trainer to help you build confidence in yourself, timing, and appropriate methods for this individual dog. You are making a great effort, and accomplishing some very good things by watching videos, but you need some in-person guidance, by someone who can put eyes on the dog.

Will he let you join an obedience club? Maybe if you tell him that you'd like a hobby? It's a wonderful hobby -- and clubs nearly always have many classes, as well as experienced mentors you can befriend and ask to stop by for coffee/tea to help you with the dog. Can you sell crafts on Etsy to pay for training?
Deb, carmspack, voodoolamb and 1 others like this.

Last edited by Magwart; 06-23-2017 at 10:06 PM.
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