DIY Agility Equipment-(Do it yourself ideas/hints) - Page 5 - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #41 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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WHen I first made my first set of jumps, I glued everything together and when later breakage occurred also ran into the problem of how to fix everything.

Now, I no longer glue anything. All the PVC fittings are tight enough, without glue, that they stay together during normal use. And if I am grabbing armfuls to move them around and they do disconnect, it's an easy fix to just reattach.

Also, I bit the bullet and now buy jump cup strips. My first jumps with the 't's I cut also started breaking as time passed. Love love love the strips cause they have ALL the jump heights so if I'm doing jump training or have other smaller dogs (or a NEW PUPPY) I can easily adjust. And the strips are just so easy to put on the jumps. Clean Run: Clip and Go Jump Cup Strips



The issue with the wooden jumps are they are HEAVY. Specially if you add the wings. Then they can be heavy and bulky. Plus you have the maintenance of painting every few years if you leave them outdoors.

I just use the regular PVC in the plumbing aisle at Loews/Home Depot for all my jumps. I do NOT paint them, at the most I use electrical tape to mark the bars. My jumps now seem to last for years and years. With me no longer glueing if there is breakage it just takes a sec to put in a replacement piece.




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post #42 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 11:02 AM
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Thanks MRL. I decided to go with the individual cups, not the strips. The strips limit me to PVC, and I think I'd like to instead make my new jumps from wood. It's bulkier, no question- but I have plenty of room for storage and muscle for lifting. Also, if Pimg lands on a bar and breaks the cup- it would have ruined the whole strip. With these, replacing a singular cup is no big deal.

This is what I went with:
Clean Run: Clip and Go Flat-back Single Jump Cups

Willy
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post #43 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 11:46 PM
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I wonder how many of you expected to see this picture any time soon (probably a couple of you for sure!) Pimg didn't do so hot with the tire jump at her trial yesterday. So of course today I got the parts to build one. Here's our progress for the night:


I thought I might post a couple tips:
  • Draw out your plan. I am designing it in my head and didn't draw anything out. I ended up gluing a couple pieces (the upright sections) in backwards. Not a big deal, but it would have looked nicer had I drawn it out and stuck with the plan.
  • If you are going to do angled supports for the uprights, be sure to get four way corners from Clean Run. Duh! I forgot that the legs won't line up with the uprights, and therefore I will need to do some tricky combos to make the uprights work.
  • I looked at a LOT of pics and saw a LOT of people using 1.5" PVC. It always has a bow in the center of the top cross piece from the weight of the tire (which isn't much). Do yourself a favor as I have done and spend the couple extra bucks for 2" PVC. This thing is very rigid. Considering how tall a tire jump is, I think the strength of the 2" plus the angled supports are necessary. I'm afraid as soon as the dog catches their feet on the tire "that one time" it would break 1.5" PVC connectors. Especially if they have become brittle in the sun...

And a couple hints:
  • Although it seems like it will be difficult to form the tire from corrugated drainage hose, it is actually REALLY easy. Don't be intimidated by it.
  • Once you find the spot where you think you should cut to end up with a 24" inner diameter tire, cut a couple rings bigger. You can always cut more off later. I thought I had found the right spot, and ended up with a tire about 23" diameter. Lesson learned (I swear I learned that lesson a LONG time ago!)
  • After looking all over the place for colored duct tape, I finally found it at Michaels craft store. It's pricy at $4.99 for 20yards, but two rolls is *just* enough to wrap the tire.

Here is my inspiration for the design:
Build It Yourself Agility Tire Jump - With Help From The Camp Bandy Store

And here you can see the sag in their upper cross bar from the 1.5" PVC:

Willy
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Last edited by wildo; 07-18-2011 at 11:52 PM.
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post #44 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 12:25 AM
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Almost done with the tire jump. The support frame is complete, as is the tire. For the stretchy rubber straps that hold the tire in the middle, I used 48" long tarp straps. All I have left to do is to measure for all the different heights and install the eyebolts. I will also hacksaw off the extra length on the four eyebolts at each corner since Pimg could catch a foot on the bottom ones, and I could poke my eyes on the top ones!


Willy
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Last edited by wildo; 07-20-2011 at 12:27 AM.
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post #45 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Not so sure I'd keep those elbow/railing type entry. Really makes the 'look' different PLUS it will absolutely affect the turns coming and going to the tire jump. THe more advance courses will start having slices to the tire and you won't be able to practice the angles with your current plan.

I'm betting if you just disconnect the higher parts the jump will still stand up with only the supports that are along the ground.



Simplier like this with just supports coming straight out towards camera and straight back to the wall and on the ground...

From the site you linked THIS is more the final look:




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Last edited by MaggieRoseLee; 07-20-2011 at 07:49 AM.
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post #46 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 09:59 AM
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Hmmm... I didn't really think about that. I think the upright braces (of some sort) need to be there to ensure the longevity of the equipment. I should be able to switch out to steel braces, and make them much smaller though.

haha- so again- big tip: draw out your design first! It doesn't always work to build it on the fly!

Willy
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post #47 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Have to say, I'd pass on the braces. Just more to trip over and they won't be at any trial. I'd just cut off the end 'Y' joints you have and put a cap on the end pieces.








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Miss Osin Blue Wildhaus NA NAJ NF

"Nothing new can come into your life unless you are grateful for what you already have. ~ "--- Michael Bernhard, gratitude
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post #48 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 10:54 AM
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I agree with getting rid of the braces... if you are worried about stability, just put a couple small sand bags on the feet. None of my tire jumps have ever had a stability prob though.

Lysa

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post #49 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 11:21 AM
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Well I thought I'd be a smartass and go find a SG world trial with a tire jump with braces. But in the end, I found very few. And the ones that did have bracing were pretty small overall. For me, I consider this to be a competition quality tire jump:


...And that's why I didn't have an issue putting in braces. I do plan on rebuilding it without braces (already got the replacement PVC). I'll try it out like that for a while and if I find a structural issue- I'll add some aluminum square stock like in the pic above.

Willy
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post #50 of 87 (permalink) Old 07-22-2011, 08:40 PM
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The tire jump is complete omitting cutting down the chain to the proper length:


I added hooks for all the standard jump heights: 8, 12, 16, 20, 22, 24, 26 as well:


I just need to take the chain back to Lowes and have them cut it down where I marked it. I think it turned out nice, and for now, I think you guys were right to persuade me to take the bracing out.

Willy
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