Leash reactivity help!! - Page 3 - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:30 PM
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What did the guy say about engagement with your dog and obedience? IMO, a good trainer doesn't just use one tool. They assess the dog and then apply the proper tool. Personally, I would not use an e-collar for your dog. So what was his plan on how to help you fix this?




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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much for all your help! I don’t know anything about dog training and somehow got to following Larry Krohn on YouTube. Anyway, this guy is good buddies with him, so he kind of sold me at that moment...dang it! I didn’t ask great questions after that. He was pretty much just trying to calm my fears around using an ecollar. I did just send him an email asking for references, so when he responds I’ll ask him for the breakdown of what his plan is with Ace. Thank you again for all your help with this!!!
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:46 AM
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It is a simple matter of obedience. Make your dog sit or down and then release him to go play with the other dogs as a reinforcer. You are fortunate in that it sounds like this is not a dog aggression problem. As I said, use food to teach a solid sit and down without distractions until you know your dog knows the commands and performs them reliably. Once you have accomplished that, add a dog as a distraction at the closest distance that you can get your down to sit or down with or without a correction. That distance might be 100', 50', 25', etc. Then gradually decrease the distance (raise the expectation.) I think part of the problem, since you said you don't know anything about dog training, might have to do with timing, how and when to present the food reward, how to lure the dog into a sit/down and then fade the lure, and how to fit and use a prong collar to give a proper correction. What gets me is when people get a dog and don't know anything about dog training. It is kind of like people who have children and don't know anything about raising children. Educate yourself, then get a dog.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chip Blasiole View Post
It is a simple matter of obedience. Make your dog sit or down and then release him to go play with the other dogs as a reinforcer. You are fortunate in that it sounds like this is not a dog aggression problem. As I said, use food to teach a solid sit and down without distractions until you know your dog knows the commands and performs them reliably. Once you have accomplished that, add a dog as a distraction at the closest distance that you can get your down to sit or down with or without a correction. That distance might be 100', 50', 25', etc. Then gradually decrease the distance (raise the expectation.)
Yes on this!

The mistake I made in the beginning was that my dog would freak out, ignore my commands, and ignore my treat. When he got calm again, I would give him the treat, thinking I was rewarding him for acting calm. Duh, in dogthink, because of my timing, I was REWARDING him for his freak out!

After reading a bit about dogtraining, I learned to keep a distance where he was still calm, give him the treat and get his eyes on me BEFORE freaking out, and continue to keep his attention as we walked by at a distance. Now that worked a lot more quickly, and it was key to him understanding that 'No, We Don't Go Meet Other Dogs.' (And these days, the distance is like a leashlength).
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 02:51 PM
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Yes on this!

The mistake I made in the beginning was that my dog would freak out, ignore my commands, and ignore my treat. When he got calm again, I would give him the treat, thinking I was rewarding him for acting calm. Duh, in dogthink, because of my timing, I was REWARDING him for his freak out!

.
yup, I fell for the same trap.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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I have been working with an all positive personal trainer, so I have been treating him while under threshold. Sometimes I make him sit, but as soon as he looks at the dog I say yes and give him the treat. The problem is he stil goes nutty at the sight of a dog all the way on the other side of the park he still goes nutty. We’ve been working on this for over 5 months.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Correction...I try the best I can to keep him under threashold. I even took a reactive dog class to help with this, but I feel like he hasn’t improved and may have even got worse
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Felafufu View Post
Wishing you the best of luck!! I've had to deal with this and got so much conflicting advice from various trainers I hired.

Distract and lead the dog away before it gets amped up!
Don't lead the dog away, it'll only think something is wrong it should react to. Put it in a solid sit!
Don't put it in a sit, it's like sitting a kettle on the stove, it'll just blow!
Distract with treats!
Don't distract with treats, you'll inadvertently reward the behavior. Just lead it away when it's lunging.
Don't drag it away, that pulling motion is how we create drive! Put it in a ______! {sit, down, heel}.
Just use a bark limiting e-collar so the dog self corrects!
Stim, uh uh, big no no you can ruin your dog that way. Just use a slip chain and give a correction!
Slip chain, are you nuts! Don't you love your dog's trachea? Use a prong.
Prong? Are you trying to stimulate the dog more? A dominant dog collar is the way to go. Lift it off it's feet briefly.
No no no no. Don't use a dominant dog collar. You just need good obedience. Put it in a sit. Unless it's a full moon then just lead the dog away before it gets amped up!
I know EXACTLY what you mean...

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