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Old 06-18-2014, 07:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Introducing distraction safely

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=9KVR5pFXLfk

How do I introduce distraction to this type of down, recall safely? Don't really have anyone that can go with me and don't know anyone with dogs willing to help.

Also, don't want to utilize random people around us...

She still wears her e-collar when off leash. I don't have the heart to trust her.

I've got a 100ft tether type lead and I'm thinking MAYBE I can use that in an area with distraction? I feel that might be risky too though.

Any other suggestions as I feel so on my own?
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I use the long tether leads when working distance stays like that in public areas. Have you already introduced all the distractions you can by yourself?

Before I get to people and dogs, I'll practice stays while throwing balls and food past my dogs, running around them, jumping, hollering, playing loud recordings of dogs from my phone. I actually had a couple practice that I brought a couple pots with me and banged them together at random intervals. I'll also use the toy on the end of the flirt pole and whiz it by my dog's paws a few times while he's holding the stay.

By the end of all that, I still put a long lead on for safety, but I rarely have trouble bringing in dogs or people because he's been proofed against much more distracting circumstances.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=9KVR5pFXLfk

How do I introduce distraction to this type of down, recall safely?
Bring a favorite fetch toy or whatever Zeeva has an affinity for and when Zeeva is on the way to a "come/front"...chuck it past her..close enough so it is recognized and potentially offers a distraction. Take high value items with you and place them away from you with Zeeva knowing exactly what they are....then try the recall...force Zeeva to make the choice...making the proper choice gets the celebration.


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Old 06-18-2014, 10:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ah, I somehow missed the recall was part of this also! Yes, SuperG's advice is good.
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I use the long tether leads when working distance stays like that in public areas. Have you already introduced all the distractions you can by yourself?

Before I get to people and dogs, I'll practice stays while throwing balls and food past my dogs, running around them, jumping, hollering, playing loud recordings of dogs from my phone. I actually had a couple practice that I brought a couple pots with me and banged them together at random intervals. I'll also use the toy on the end of the flirt pole and whiz it by my dog's paws a few times while he's holding the stay.

By the end of all that, I still put a long lead on for safety, but I rarely have trouble bringing in dogs or people because he's been proofed against much more distracting circumstances.
I think she's pretty proofed with me dancing around, yelling or throwing things; she doesn't move until I say 'Zeeva come here'.

I need dogs and people distractions...without putting strangers and other pups at risk.
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I think she's pretty proofed with me dancing around, yelling or throwing things; she doesn't move until I say 'Zeeva come here'.

I need dogs and people distractions...without putting strangers and other pups at risk.
Since people and dogs would be a completely new distraction, probably what I would do is go to a place that tends to have a lot of dogs/people (outskirts of a dog park, shopping center, dog store, etc) and practice stays next to you on the leash. It may seem very simple, but it would be a matter of habituating her to holding a stay in close proximity to the distractions. A strong leave it is a good thing to use in conjunction with it. The having her come from short distances (the length of the leash) rewarding to solid comes, jackpotting for comes in which she chooses not to even glance at anyone else on the way.

Part of it, as she gets better, will also be just having a level of trust that she can hold it. My distance training around people and dogs tends to go a bit more slowly because I want to feel completely confident that my dog can hold the stay or perform a direct come before we move on to more distance. If you are extra worried, the long line leaves you with a good measure of control.

This was originally just a random video, but I'll post it here since it's sort of relevant. This was taken in the process of building his stays. He's extremely solid with most distractions, but I did move in at the end (closer easier for him to focus on me) and applied a leave it as needed with people walking so close. Much of it is building it slowly in extremely successful steps. Now, about a week later, he can hold a stay just inside the doors and ignore pretty much all the dogs and people passing around him (except for one particularly in his face lab that made him scootch back a bit). And it always gets better with practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTzuGgjPGww
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Since people and dogs would be a completely new distraction, probably what I would do is go to a place that tends to have a lot of dogs/people (outskirts of a dog park, shopping center, dog store, etc) and practice stays next to you on the leash. It may seem very simple, but it would be a matter of habituating her to holding a stay in close proximity to the distractions. A strong leave it is a good thing to use in conjunction with it. The having her come from short distances (the length of the leash) rewarding to solid comes, jackpotting for comes in which she chooses not to even glance at anyone else on the way.

Part of it, as she gets better, will also be just having a level of trust that she can hold it. My distance training around people and dogs tends to go a bit more slowly because I want to feel completely confident that my dog can hold the stay or perform a direct come before we move on to more distance. If you are extra worried, the long line leaves you with a good measure of control.

This was originally just a random video, but I'll post it here since it's sort of relevant. This was taken in the process of building his stays. He's extremely solid with most distractions, but I did move in at the end (closer easier for him to focus on me) and applied a leave it as needed with people walking so close. Much of it is building it slowly in extremely successful steps. Now, about a week later, he can hold a stay just inside the doors and ignore pretty much all the dogs and people passing around him (except for one particularly in his face lab that made him scootch back a bit). And it always gets better with practice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTzuGgjPGww
Thank you friend.

Your pup seems a lot more docile than mine. Zeeva can be pretty fear aggressive with dogs...

Awake? It's like almost 5am in TX isn't it?
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you friend.

Your pup seems a lot more docile than mine. Zeeva can be pretty fear aggressive with dogs...

Awake? It's like almost 5am in TX isn't it?
If she tends to be fear aggressive, then it's even more important that you establish a good solid stay at a safe distance on leash first. I would work on a stay where she basically ignores all other dogs and people and focuses just on maintaining eye contact with you. It'll be up to you to find what a safe distance is for her. If you're worried about her reacting, especially if practicing in tight quarters like a store, definitely keep her on leash for extra safety.

Kaiju can be docile when he wants to be. Other times, it's like having a tornado on the end of a leash.

I don't really sleep easily. I do get quite a bit of reading done though.
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