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#1 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,787
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Dakota has had some issues with dogs. At 16 months she pinned a poodle in class that was ticking her off throughout the classes. No damage done but we were kicked out of classes after 4 levels.
So off it a behaviorist I go. Worked on classical conditioning, group walks, classes and private lessons. Drove an hour each way for many months. Graduated to regular obedience but I dislike the drive and decided it was too far. With regrets I stopped. Dakota is now 3. After 8 months of no classes I'm missing it. So I found a trainer that offers drop in classes 15 min away. And he accepts dogs with issues. We passed his test and started class. His position is that if a dog has issues during the class the entire class works with that dog. If a dog snarls, snaps or lunges at another dog he addresses it by walking the two dogs closer and closer to each other and finally having them sit side by side. In My old class we made sure the dogs were not close to each other and never addressed the behavior. Dakota is doing great. Had one issue when another dog went off on her when we entered the room but she did not react, haclke or show stress back but stayed nicely beside be where the other dog was walked close to her. But being the bitch she is and does not forget that when we did a come exercise with these two dogs she tried to go after him. We were set up for this possibility and her actions were stopped. So now Dakota is walked closer and closer to this dog and eventually the two of them are sitting side by side. Rest of the class we did mingled heeling and not one single issue. Last nights class was great and we did come exercises between dogs. Perfect both as the sit/ stay dog and the dog in motion |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,328
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Great news, and thank you, you give me hope
__________________
Miss Molly Moo (aka The Piranha/The four legged Mouth) GSD 31/10 Raennik Hassan (Cooper) GSD 19/10/11 Paris Tabby Cat 15 years Texas Tabby Cat 15 years |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Master Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 661
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Nice work! I too have found that approaching situations, rather than avoiding them, is key. It's probably a global thing about life in general too
![]() But with my dog I have found that if I am actively seeking opportunities to get closer to other dogs, then that mindset (and the behavior/feelings that follow) makes the "problem" seem like not such a big deal. It makes it more of a challenge than a threat, and as you said, that mindset travels down the leash. May I ask about the method -- what does your trainer have you do when your dog lunges etc. at another dog? Do you keep them there and correct them, or do you take him further out then work back in closer? |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,787
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I've been on a few days vacation and just got back, unfortunately I missed last nights class.
To answer your question ucdcrush. we take the dogs futher out then work them back in closer, praising for good behaviour. We then get the dogs sitting side by side facing the oposite direction. The instructor is watching for signs that the dog if the dog is stressed or is giving signs of thinking about reacting. If the dog looks like they are going to take a sniff we give a small correction. Once the dog faces each other they are both focusing on their handler, all without a verbal correction or cue to "watch me". If a dog lunges at another dog, he will have that lunging dog approach the dog he reacted to, which is in a sit stay beside the handler. The lunging dog is taken out further and slowing walked closer and closer to this dog. Then he would either do scramble heeling with all the dogs, or put the dog in a down stay while the other dogs walked around this dog, starting out in a big circle gradually getting closer and closer. |
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