does he know i'm alpha?

[doggiedad]

find a trainer.

teach your dog to heel (both sides) on
or off the leash. teach your dog
to hold it's position with distractions.

Originally Posted by truwrxtacy

thanks guys, any advice on the leash pulling? people tell me to get a choke collar or a e-collar but i'm hesitant. Right now when he pulls, i just stop walking until he sits than we walk, but as soon as he pulls again i stop. But he almost chokes himself when i stop, and our walks take FOREVER because i have to keep stopping. How long did it take you guys to train your dogs?

I also give him treats to train him, so i will have a couple of treats in my hand. I'll tell him to sit and if he does i'll give him the treat. My GF dosent think this is a good idea because she thinks that he will only obey me if i have treats in my hands, which kind of makes sense. What should i do?

[Stosh]

Lots of good advice- definitely take a class. I use a prong collar and have since they were 6 or 7 mos old. I still use it when we walk in public or for some training like 'leave it'. It works instantly and is not the strain on the neck or throat that a choke is. You'll need to have it fitted properly and get some training on how to use it, but it will work wonders. That's about the same age I started with the clicker too, they were getting a little bored and they responded really well to it. I agree that there's no real technique on establishing yourself as the alpha and right now things you try might be off-putting and possibly intimidating to the dog. Give him time to settle in. Sounds like you're off to a good start!

[Lilie]

I have my dogs sit and wait for release when going out side. I didn't want them to rush out every time the door opens. However, coming into the house I allow them to go in first. Mostly because it is easier for me to do so.

Remember to use a lot of praise words when offering a reward too!

[Valkyrierider]

Our trainers use the Gentle Leader head collar. It has made a big difference. It comes with a DVD on how to properly fit and use it. Still we have a little pressure on the leash but it is improving daily. Training is your best friend. Start now, be consistent and don't give up. I'm fairly new to this forum, but I can tell you most of these people know what they're talking about. Everyone has their own take on things, most are spot on.

[Cassidy's Mom]

Here are some tips for teaching loose leash walking: Leash Walking | Ahimsa Dog Training, Seattle | Dog and Puppy Tips from Seattle |

I especially like the the Silky Leash technique:

Silky Leash Video – How to Train Leash Walking | Ahimsa Dog Training, Seattle | Dog and Puppy Tips from Seattle |

I found that just stopping and waiting for a slack leash (the "be a tree") method was not nearly as effective as backing up each time - basically penalty yards for forging ahead. That, along with marking and rewarding the correct position at my side, and teaching the dog to yield to leash pressure (effectively releasing that pressure, rather than pulling into it), as in "silky leash" worked much better and faster for me. I also do lots of right and left turns, even circles. Another thing you can try is to take one step and stop, having him sit each time. One more step, stop and sit, one more step, stop and sit. Lure with a treat at first if necessary. Over and over again, so he learns that there's no point in pulling ahead because you're only going to take one step at a time. From there you can work up to 2 or 3 steps then a stop and sit. Eventually you should end up with an automatic sit at your side each time you stop walking.

I usually walk Halo with a my arm hanging straight down, with the loop around my wrist and holding the leash with a foot or two of slack. If she starts to pull ahead I drop the rest of the leash, (leaving the loop around my wrist), and as soon as she feels that sudden slack as the leash drops she immediately turns around and starts walking back towards me without any other cue, well before she hits the end of the leash. This did take a lot of time and practice, and at first it took us forever to get anywhere, but with patience and persistence she now walks better on leash than any other dog I've ever had, and we get compliments about it all the time.

Once she was walking nicely most of the time, I'd just praise her rather than constantly marking and rewarding, but for a long time after that I would click and treat each time she looked at me, to reinforce attention. I don't require that she remain in perfect heel position for a 3-4 mile walk or that she look at me constantly, as long as she doesn't pull and I get occasional eye contact.

Since you'll be using lots of treats they should be very small and soft, so they're quickly and easily swallowed. All you want is just a taste. Jerky treats are good, cut up into little pieces, about a 1/4" or so. Natural Balance has some great food in a roll, like a big sausage, that can be cut up in advance and stored in the fridge. Tiny cheese or hot dog cubes work well too, but are messier.

[Cassidy's Mom]

Here is a great article about being the leader:

Leadership versus Dominance | Dog Star Daily

[MaggieRoseLee]

It's not about being 'alpha' it's about your dog really understanding training. I'm my dog's leader cause they want to listen/learn/obey not because they HAVE to.

I agree dog classes are a huge help.

I teach pretty much all stuff with treats/clicker initially....but it's the next step that always gets messed up. Cause you don't go from treats 100% to treats never for a command.

Instead you start up random reinforcement but only AFTER your dogs really knows and understands.

You can then start mixing in the praise and toys with the treats.

How to Mark Random Reinforcement in Basic Dog Training: How to Train Your Dog | eHow.com

http://www.wholisticdogtraining.com/...ive-method.pdf

[AgileGSD]

The "dominance theory" is a pretty outdated idea about dog behavior, which is based on even more outdated ideas about wolf behavior. People would probably enjoy their dogs much more if they stopped obsessing over if their dog is attempting to be "alpha" or if they are "alpha" enough over their dog. There is absolutely no proof that anything is accomplished by owners going through doorways first, eating first, not allowing dogs to jump up, not playing tug, etc. Some of these things, which are now referred to as "leadership exercises" can be useful when training but not at all because it creates "makes the owner alpha".

For example, if you have your dog sit and wait before you open the door, it isn't sending your dog the message that you are "alpha" because alpha dogs open doors. It is, however useful for teaching your dog to be polite and not dart through open doors by giving the dog a clear, consistent idea of what you expect from him. Dogs darting through doors is not a sign of "dominance" though, it is just a sign of an excited dog who hasn't been taught any differently. Having your dog sit before he gets his meals or anything of value doesn't prove to your dog that you are "alpha" because alpha dogs require their underlings to sit when they want something. Used consistently though, it does build a really nice default behavior - sitting works better than jumping/grabbing/barking/pushing to get what you want. Jumping/grabbing/barking/pushing are not signs of "dominance" either, just normal behaviors that all dogs do when they want something and haven't been taught any different.

The reason that NILIF or similar programs work is not because it is making the human more "alpha". They work because the biggest issue people have with training their dogs is with presenting a clear picture of what they want, being consistent with what they expect and preventing dogs from self rewarding for undesirable behavior. Following NILIF means that your dog will have a better idea of what works to earn him what he wants. It means you will be more consistent with rewarding behaviors that you want. It also restricts the dog from practicing behavior that you don't want but that he may find very self rewarding (such as destructive behavior or door dashing or chasing cats or other things that dogs enjoy but people don't).

[MaggieRoseLee]

Watch this training with a 3 month old puppy, all clicker/treat trained. No 'I AM ALPHA' that I can see...

YouTube - crazy tricks of crazy puppy - Le, 3 months

YouTube - crazy tricks of crazy puppy - Le, 3 months

And I know she fades the treats cause when you see her dogs at year

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

It's much more important to play, exercise, socialize and be your dogs calm leader they know they can rely on for guidance and support (and FUN!)

[Ucdcrush]

I have been reading "The Dog Listener" lately, and the author suggests, for one thing, ignoring the dog (no talk no touch no eye contact as Cesar says) when you arrive home, for 5 minutes or until they've gone and laid down somewhere. Then call them to you and praise them.

They seem to really want to come, since by then they are really craving interaction with you the leader. According to the author it is similar to what alpha dogs do, they go into the territory, control the space, and give attention when they want to, not when a subordinate member requests it.

I for one don't think dog owners should write "alpha dog" theory off completely, just because of some criticism about how dogs are not wolves etc. Maybe it's the "alpha dog" label people disagree with, but as the owner of a strong independent breed, the owner has to be seen as the one who runs the show, and controls the activities of the subordinates.

For pulling, Don Sullivan (you may have seen his informercials) has a method that he claims stops pulling in 5-10 minutes, which is, when the dog pulls, strong 2 handed correction then walk the other direction. Keep that up and the dog will associate pulling with a punishment. It's simple and I have seen it work. It is not for teaching heeling (walking at the side), just NOT pulling.

If you want to train without corrections, you can try the clicker and lots of high value treats, and give yourself plenty of time. But if you are calm and measured in your corrections, they are IMO not harmful-- they are part of the way a dog learns, so why not use them to prevent unwanted behaviors. That is their purpose in the dog's world.