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Old 01-17-2014, 10:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Opinions please!!!!!

Here is a video of some of the things Mishka can do. Please let me know what you think, and how I can do better. She also knows the hand signals to all of her commands. Mishka at 11 weeks - YouTube


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Old 01-18-2014, 08:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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She's looking great!!! And she's very excited to work!! My advice would be to not use your hand signals (for at least a long time if at all ) my other dog (who is not a GSD) is so stuck on hand signals he knows no verbal and won't respond to anything else. Also- and it's not for sure, because I'm knew to shepherds but- my friend has a male who is just around a year old and when they do OB he barks NON STOP and when he's not barking he is whining quietly, so I would try and keep her quiet unless you ask for it because it can be a very very frustrating habit to break later on.

Other then that she is great, I'm happy to see other puppy videos, please keep us all updated


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Old 01-18-2014, 08:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hand signals especially if they are abbreviated luring gestures are fine and easily faded out by abbreviating them more and more and are fine.

She's showing great excitement and engagement. The barking might be because there's an element if frustration that you are slow on prompting. Some drivey dogs get frustrated at slow prompting. A few times you just sorta stand there between commands and rewards and she was like what the ****? Do something so I can work!

A few of those barks might have been superstitions she learned. If you took too long to click a sit and she got frustrated and barked and you clicked as she barked you just rewarded a sit and bark and she learns oh I better do both just to be sure I get my reward.

You have a great pup there though. She's a smart drivey little one.
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hand signals especially if they are abbreviated luring gestures are fine and easily faded out by abbreviating them more and more and are fine.

She's showing great excitement and engagement. The barking might be because there's an element if frustration that you are slow on prompting. Some drivey dogs get frustrated at slow prompting. A few times you just sorta stand there between commands and rewards and she was like what the ****? Do something so I can work!

A few of those barks might have been superstitions she learned. If you took too long to click a sit and she got frustrated and barked and you clicked as she barked you just rewarded a sit and bark and she learns oh I better do both just to be sure I get my reward.

You have a great pup there though. She's a smart drivey little one.

She does get frustrated easily, and bored quickly! I'm working now on only rewarding the perfect behavior. Any ideas on how I could get her more focused? I always make sure to have no delay in my clicks and treats... But I'd really like that barking to stop lol. Any time during play she does that too. When she's excited, frustrated, happy, tired, bored... She barks.



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Old 01-18-2014, 09:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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At that age I would be luring the behavior I wanted and marking and treating and moving them to the next behavior quickly. At her age I wouldn't even be adding the command cues yet or I'd have just started to but would have still been luring everything I wanted.

If you want her more focused you should move a little faster between exercises and then make sure her sessions are short. Think 3 minutes or so. Making sure she is hungry before a session helps too. I personally hate clickers. I mark with my voice so I can feed machine gun style with both hands. To keep things exciting you can mark once but feed a random number of times. In other words don't just click treat click treat. You should click treat treat click treat treat treat treat etc.

The mark signals a package is coming but you should vary what it is. Dogs prefer several small pieces of food more than one large piece of food even if that large piece adds up to more food because the act of eating is rewarding in itself. Give it a try and you will see her turn into a super charged machine. You can eventually not reward on reps she barks on too and that will stop the barking but you need to do it in a way that doesn't frustrate her. I'd recommend feeding more pieces on reps she doesn't bark on and only 1 piece on reps she does bark on. She will quickly figure out if she shuts up she gets more food.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baillif View Post
At that age I would be luring the behavior I wanted and marking and treating and moving them to the next behavior quickly. At her age I wouldn't even be adding the command cues yet or I'd have just started to but would have still been luring everything I wanted.

If you want her more focused you should move a little faster between exercises and then make sure her sessions are short. Think 3 minutes or so. Making sure she is hungry before a session helps too. I personally hate clickers. I mark with my voice so I can feed machine gun style with both hands. To keep things exciting you can mark once but feed a random number of times. In other words don't just click treat click treat. You should click treat treat click treat treat treat treat etc.

The mark signals a package is coming but you should vary what it is. Dogs prefer several small pieces of food more than one large piece of food even if that large piece adds up to more food because the act of eating is rewarding in itself. Give it a try and you will see her turn into a super charged machine. You can eventually not reward on reps she barks on too and that will stop the barking but you need to do it in a way that doesn't frustrate her. I'd recommend feeding more pieces on reps she doesn't bark on and only 1 piece on reps she does bark on. She will quickly figure out if she shuts up she gets more food.
What is luring? I've seen a lot of people talking about it.


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Old 01-18-2014, 05:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You basically put the treat in your hand and use it to lure the dog into a desired position and then you mark and reward. Then when you are confident you can lure the dog into that position with the lure consistently you put the command in before you move to lure the dog. You also abbreviate the luring gesture during that transition. There are some great videos out there which are an example to how this is done. Michael Ellis has some on leerburg.com
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baillif View Post
You basically put the treat in your hand and use it to lure the dog into a desired position and then you mark and reward. Then when you are confident you can lure the dog into that position with the lure consistently you put the command in before you move to lure the dog. You also abbreviate the luring gesture during that transition. There are some great videos out there which are an example to how this is done. Michael Ellis has some on leerburg.com
Oh! Yes, I didn't know there was a name for that. That's what I did, she just caught on faster than I thought. I thought there would be a pole with something on the end of it. Lol. Working on the barking. Treating more when she is quiet seems to be helping a LOT.



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Old 01-18-2014, 06:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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She's super drivy and will catch on quick that much I can see easily. You can make that one a flashy looking machine.
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If she does bark don't reward her. Teach her that she has to be quiet to get a treat.
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