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#1 (permalink) |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 14
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I am beginning my search for a new GSD and am already involved in SAR work so I would like to find a puppy to raise into the work. I'm not particular about if my future GSD does trailing, air scent, or cadaver...but how do you go about picking the "right" puppy for this type of work?
I've already started looking at and visiting kennels (I am in the US) and have found a couple that I am comfortable with so far. I've heard that a good breeder should choose for you-or at least assist, but I don't want to be the one standing there, not knowing what is going on lol. I'd like to know what I should be looking out for as well... My lifestyle is pretty busy-my "job" (I don't consider it one, I love it so much lol) is as a Pet Sitter and other than that, my boyfriend and I are always out doors-weather permitting-hiking, running, biking, or just exploring new neighborhoods or trails. I do actively participate with one of my local SAR groups and had been training a GSD that I took in as a stray a few months ago as my partner. However, he is having to find a new home because he is aggressive towards other dogs and has become a liability in the household to the other three dogs, so it breaks my heart, but he will be finding another place where he can be spoiled as an only child. When Carson finds a new home I will find another puppy to begin training for SAR work as well as to be my partner going EVERYWHERE with me that dogs are allowed. Any input is more than welcome! :] |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 57
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I did SAR for 10 years with 2 of my dogs, one a GSD rescue and the other a Rott/GSD. One of the best things I can recommend is that you read a book called "Search and Rescue Dogs, Training the K9 Hero" that is the official book from ARDA (The American Rescue Dog Association). ARDA was the first organization in the United States to evaluate and certify SAR dogs/Units. They have tons of information that will help you to look for the right traits for a SAR dog. Do not necessarily take the word of a breeder that has not done SAR themselves when they make a recommendation for a SAR dog. They may think they know what the traits are, but many times they do not. That is a general statement, but that has been my experience.
You are very right, though, that ONE of the traits a SAR dog must have is to be very socially acceptable, friendly to people and other dogs. There is nothing worse than a SAR dog at a Command unit on a search where the press might be present, that turns and growls/barks at other dogs or people. You need to find a breeder that does TONS of socialization with puppies at very young ages. This can be quite controversial for many breeders. I start mine at 4 weeks of age when they are still completely protected by the mother's immunity. Then YOU have to continue that socialization as well. So, keep your eyes open, read the book and peruse the ARDA website: www.ardainc.org Good luck! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 4,897
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Sorry cannot offer any advice on what to look for in a pup for SAR, but I hope that your plans work out for you.
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karen, mom to: ace-gsd (bi-color) 6/14/2010 mandy-yellow lab 1/31/2009 baby-terrier mix 11/25/2000 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 8,053
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Here is my two cents - Starting a puppy is more of a gamble than a young adult but somebody has to take the gamble - you take it and you need plan b in case something goes wrong. The breeder takes it and you pay more for a young adult.
I would specifically search for a breeder with EXPERIENCE in placing puppies in SAR homes and that means SAR homes where the dogs have demonstrated performance. Those breeders are probably going to be better at selecting the right pup than any of us. Characteristics that can be "worked around" in a pet or even a sport dog will result in washing out a SAR dog. Some of the traits to look for [would be good to know, really know, which of these traits are genetic! I don't ] Sound health history of parents High thresholds for defense - you want a dog that is NOT looking for a fight - it does not matter if the dog will appropriately defend against a real threat but it should be very careful in discerning what is and is not real. I cannot endorse any breeder though [because I do not have direct first hand experience actually buying from them] if you can PM me I can tell you a few I would at least talk with because they are breeding the kinds of dogs I am looking for for my next cadaver dog [only my next dog will be a young adult] ) Excellent nerve strength-SAR is so unpredictable compared to sport so you need an unflappable dog The dog does NOT need to be a social butterfly - it can be appropriately aloof as long as it is not natrually suspicoius or agressive Obvoiusly you need the drives, but prey drive will only get you so far. You also need hunt drive but it is hard to really evaluate all that until the puppy is older - there are some tests like PAWS working dog evaluation for puppies and some of the books, as mentioned, have some puppy selection suggestions. You have to have a dog with hunt drive and some lines are more known for bringing that in than others (there are some threads on that throughout the board in the SAR section I think) Bred for scentwork - there are some breeders that put an emphasis on this-this is important because the tracking part of schutzhund is an obedience excercise and does not really select for a scenting dog. Dog neutral - Once again I think some lines have more dog agression than other lines and is something to avoid. It is a major headache. ----------------- You did well to get involved in SAR first --my first dog was the typical puppy bought before I was on the team - nervebag - wash --my second dog was very carefully selected by me with the help of a breeder - apparently dog agression was common in her lines and I had to work to keep it under control (which I did) but she wound up with bad hips about the time she was certified. She did make one find before I retired her. --my third dog was acquired as a two year old. Dog number two's "replacement" and it has worked out very well and is the reason why dog four will be a young adult or older puppy (but dog five may well be a puppy since I doubt dog two and three will be alive by the time I select dog five----I cannot have more than three dogs at a time in my subdivision, nor do I want more than three
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Nancy www.scsarda.org Grim (Grimmy Bear) & Beau (Bo-dee man) Waiting at the Bridge: Cyra, Toby, Rainbow, Linus, Oscar, Arlo & Waggles |
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