I'm so ticked of right now!! - Page 9

julie87 · 12-04-2012, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mooch

Put the e collar on yourself first - you should at least know what your PUPPY will feel!

I can't believe people would put a shock collar on a pup - there's just NO need for it

I did try the shock collar on myself and I used a taser on myself, ain't that bad. Shock collars don't hurt them they are a good solution IF nothing else worked and your kids are in danger because you can't control your dog. I guess you would rather have your kids be bitten than use a shock collar on your dog, well everyone have their own priorities...

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Mooch · 12-04-2012, 07:06 AM

I have no issue with shock collars - if they are used for the right reasons and at the right time. I'm actually considering buying one myself because I have problems with my young male chasing my horses.
The collars worry me in as far as people "getting pissed off" going out and buying one and then using them as "punishment" on the dog.
If the OP is going to use one she needs to be taught how to use it properly - they are not a quick fix. Maybe you could tell her how you used yours rather than just telling her to buy one? If it worked for you that's good.
Personally in my opinion - a 5 month old puppy is to young, especially with an inexperienced owner that seems more interested in blaming anything in the world but themselves.

Kyleigh · 12-04-2012, 08:31 AM

What a super long thread!

First things first - Julie87 ... if you are using a shock collar / e-collar on your puppy to stop it from biting your siblings you are doing it WRONG. I have respect for a number of training tools, and I do respect the e-collar as a tool, to be used APPROPRIATELY. Shocking your dog because it behaves inappropriately around your siblings is WRONG ... there are no if, ands or buts. YOU should have trained the dog to act more appropriately, and if you haven't yet, then keep the dog on leash, or in its crate.

Bubbles - you have received a ton of information here, and a lot of it is confusing, contradictory and likely doesn't make sense. Everyone is offering their personal experiences of what worked for them with their dogs / or dogs in rescue / foster, whatever.

You feel that the problems with you and your dog are unique. You're right - they are unique ... no one else has the same problem as you ... do you know why? Because they are not YOU.

Your puppy is really no different than any other GSD landshark out there. It might be a tad more hyper than someone else's puppy, but seriously, all puppies go through the teething stage, and there are always some puppies that are just "more" than some others.

So, yes, your situation is UNIQUE, because the only thing different is YOU.

Bubbles, you need to step back and realize that you are the problem with your dog. You are not consistent, training is only done in "blocks" of time, you are rewarding when you should be redirecting, etc.

I'm not trying to "slam" you or push you into a corner to get all defensive. Most of us have probably been where you are now, with our first dogs. Looking down at this monster and trying to figure out what the heck we did wrong.

The reality is, bad behaviour in dogs is a result of incorrect training, or no training.

My suggestion ... which has been said in here before - credit to whoever posted it first!

1 - pick ONE training method and stick with it ... quit confusing your dog! You have so many "punishments" for your dog when he bites the dog hasn't a clue what's coming. Dogs need to know that if I do "A" then "B" will happen - your puppy is confused

2 - quit going to the vet for behaviour / training - most vets know nothing about training, you're wasting your money going back there

3 - CALM DOWN - you feed the energy to your puppy with all your frustration, anger, resentment, etc. And, please, don't try and tell me / us that you are calm when you are working with your dog and when he bites you. I won't buy it. I've been there, and so has everyone else ... any inexperienced dog owner, or even novice dog owner, is going to react when their dog / puppy bites / nips them. It's human nature ... just that simple reaction causes your dog's energy to escalate ... and then there's a war ... who's gonna win? Won't be you!

4 - Training is NOT done in 20 minute blocks here, 10 minute blocks there, etc. Training a puppy is 24/7 ... or at least as long as the puppy is awake. I had Kyleigh attached to my waist for the first 4 months while we were in the house - unless she was sleeping or we were playing outside. This taught her to follow me, respect my space, and I was able to watch her and make sure she didn't get into anything.

You mentioned that your puppy eats everything off the ground ... tighten the leash a bit ... and walk faster. I didn't give Kyleigh free rein to sniff everything she wanted when we walked ... I'd have never made it around the block. At 5 months, I'd walk about half a block and then stop at a corner (making sure there's no garbage or anything) and let her sniff for a minute or two. Then we'd walk again. No stopping, and walk quickly. Don't give him a chance to stop and smell the roses. You'll give him that later.

Finally, you need to find a trainer you like and will work with YOU ... not your dog ... YOU. Most of us on here could take your dog for 2-3 weeks and have 90% of your dog's "problems" under control or even gone. But until you are trained in how to do it, your dog will revert back to being the way it is, because you don't have the tools to figure it out.

Bubbles, we can't "help" you on line ... No one is here to SEE you interact with your puppy. We can provide advice, information and suggestions, that's all.

I really hope you can find a good trainer - you've been given a list of people to contact (and seriously, why do you continue to spend money on a trainer that won't address your main issue?) and that in 3-4 months from now, you'll look back on the horrors of the landshark phase and laugh.

Good luck!

Sunflowers · 12-04-2012, 08:39 AM

Maybe they feel it differently.
If their noses are so much more sensitive than ours, how do we know that they are not also more sensitive to pain?

onyx'girl · 12-04-2012, 08:44 AM

Quote:

I did try the shock collar on myself and I used a taser on myself, ain't that bad. Shock collars don't hurt them they are a good solution IF nothing else worked and your kids are in danger because you can't control your dog. I guess you would rather have your kids be bitten than use a shock collar on your dog, well everyone have their own priorities...

I have a dogtra and when checking it, I don't feel the stim til it hits 16....others may feel it at lower levels.

I think we all have different tolerance and a taser would definitely be "that bad"!

Lilie · 12-04-2012, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunflowers

Maybe they feel it differently.

I don't think the shock collar is meant to create pain, it's meant to create an instant correction to an undesired behavior. The current is an element of uncomfortable suprise to the dog.

If a person really wanted to test it, they should wear the collar and give the controls to their partner...or sibling...or co-worker. Let them wear it all day.

**JeanKBBMMMAAN** · 12-04-2012, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lilie

If a person really wanted to test it, they should wear the collar and give the controls to their partner...or sibling...or co-worker. Let them wear it all day.

Or go on Killer Karaoke:

Killer Karaoke Ramblin Man - YouTube

Jax08 · 12-04-2012, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onyx'girl

I have a dogtra and when checking it, I don't feel the stim til it hits 16....others may feel it at lower levels.

I think we all have different tolerance and a taser would definitely be "that bad"!

Me too. And Jax feels it at 4-5. I had a thread where I asked that question somewhere and had a very good answer on why she reacts at such a low level that I can't even feel. It has to do with the conductivity of our skin.

Sunflowers · 12-04-2012, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jax08

Me too. And Jax feels it at 4-5. I had a thread where I asked that question somewhere and had a very good answer on why she reacts at such a low level that I can't even feel. It has to do with the conductivity of our skin.

Thought so.
To me, uncomfortable surprise does equal pain.
I am not saying this is ok or not ok, it is a training tool that is used.

**Castlemaid** · 12-04-2012, 09:16 AM

Please go back and read Kyleigh's post - the advice is spot on!

12-04-2012, 08:31 AM	#83 (permalink)
Kyleigh Elite Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Ontario Posts: 1,315	What a super long thread! First things first - Julie87 ... if you are using a shock collar / e-collar on your puppy to stop it from biting your siblings you are doing it WRONG. I have respect for a number of training tools, and I do respect the e-collar as a tool, to be used APPROPRIATELY. Shocking your dog because it behaves inappropriately around your siblings is WRONG ... there are no if, ands or buts. YOU should have trained the dog to act more appropriately, and if you haven't yet, then keep the dog on leash, or in its crate. Bubbles - you have received a ton of information here, and a lot of it is confusing, contradictory and likely doesn't make sense. Everyone is offering their personal experiences of what worked for them with their dogs / or dogs in rescue / foster, whatever. You feel that the problems with you and your dog are unique. You're right - they are unique ... no one else has the same problem as you ... do you know why? Because they are not YOU. Your puppy is really no different than any other GSD landshark out there. It might be a tad more hyper than someone else's puppy, but seriously, all puppies go through the teething stage, and there are always some puppies that are just "more" than some others. So, yes, your situation is UNIQUE, because the only thing different is YOU. Bubbles, you need to step back and realize that you are the problem with your dog. You are not consistent, training is only done in "blocks" of time, you are rewarding when you should be redirecting, etc. I'm not trying to "slam" you or push you into a corner to get all defensive. Most of us have probably been where you are now, with our first dogs. Looking down at this monster and trying to figure out what the heck we did wrong. The reality is, bad behaviour in dogs is a result of incorrect training, or no training. My suggestion ... which has been said in here before - credit to whoever posted it first! 1 - pick ONE training method and stick with it ... quit confusing your dog! You have so many "punishments" for your dog when he bites the dog hasn't a clue what's coming. Dogs need to know that if I do "A" then "B" will happen - your puppy is confused 2 - quit going to the vet for behaviour / training - most vets know nothing about training, you're wasting your money going back there 3 - CALM DOWN - you feed the energy to your puppy with all your frustration, anger, resentment, etc. And, please, don't try and tell me / us that you are calm when you are working with your dog and when he bites you. I won't buy it. I've been there, and so has everyone else ... any inexperienced dog owner, or even novice dog owner, is going to react when their dog / puppy bites / nips them. It's human nature ... just that simple reaction causes your dog's energy to escalate ... and then there's a war ... who's gonna win? Won't be you! 4 - Training is NOT done in 20 minute blocks here, 10 minute blocks there, etc. Training a puppy is 24/7 ... or at least as long as the puppy is awake. I had Kyleigh attached to my waist for the first 4 months while we were in the house - unless she was sleeping or we were playing outside. This taught her to follow me, respect my space, and I was able to watch her and make sure she didn't get into anything. You mentioned that your puppy eats everything off the ground ... tighten the leash a bit ... and walk faster. I didn't give Kyleigh free rein to sniff everything she wanted when we walked ... I'd have never made it around the block. At 5 months, I'd walk about half a block and then stop at a corner (making sure there's no garbage or anything) and let her sniff for a minute or two. Then we'd walk again. No stopping, and walk quickly. Don't give him a chance to stop and smell the roses. You'll give him that later. Finally, you need to find a trainer you like and will work with YOU ... not your dog ... YOU. Most of us on here could take your dog for 2-3 weeks and have 90% of your dog's "problems" under control or even gone. But until you are trained in how to do it, your dog will revert back to being the way it is, because you don't have the tools to figure it out. Bubbles, we can't "help" you on line ... No one is here to SEE you interact with your puppy. We can provide advice, information and suggestions, that's all. I really hope you can find a good trainer - you've been given a list of people to contact (and seriously, why do you continue to spend money on a trainer that won't address your main issue?) and that in 3-4 months from now, you'll look back on the horrors of the landshark phase and laugh. Good luck! __________________ Marion’s Zoo-Kyleigh, London-cat, Echo-TAG, Ellie-Quaker; www.marionsquilts.com

12-04-2012, 08:39 AM	#84 (permalink)
Sunflowers Crowned Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 4,672	Maybe they feel it differently. If their noses are so much more sensitive than ours, how do we know that they are not also more sensitive to pain? __________________ Norden von Narnia--Hans, dob 1-15-2012 http://pdgf.pitapata.com/uC6lm4.png Last edited by Sunflowers; 12-04-2012 at 08:45 AM.

12-04-2012, 09:16 AM	#90 (permalink)
Castlemaid The Administrator from the Great White North, eh? Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Northern British Columbia Posts: 11,174	Please go back and read Kyleigh's post - the advice is spot on! __________________ Lucia Keeta BH, OB1, TR1, AD Rottweiler/Hairy Dog mix?? Shelter rescue Gryffon Vom Wildhaus BH

12-04-2012, 07:06 AM	#82 (permalink)
Mooch Master Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Australia Posts: 864	I have no issue with shock collars - if they are used for the right reasons and at the right time. I'm actually considering buying one myself because I have problems with my young male chasing my horses. The collars worry me in as far as people "getting pissed off" going out and buying one and then using them as "punishment" on the dog. If the OP is going to use one she needs to be taught how to use it properly - they are not a quick fix. Maybe you could tell her how you used yours rather than just telling her to buy one? If it worked for you that's good. Personally in my opinion - a 5 month old puppy is to young, especially with an inexperienced owner that seems more interested in blaming anything in the world but themselves.

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