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Thread: Titan 12 months OB and protection Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-02-2014 11:01 PM
Packen Rule of thumb is to build stationary focus for a minute or so before taking 1 step.
09-02-2014 10:28 PM
onyx'girl body language cues the dog as well...a head movement, shoulder raise or lower....dogs pick up on these quite well.
Another reason to have someone spot you, or a good trainer to help with the handling and footwork. Even if you can't find an IPO handler to help one on one in obedience, someone who does competitive AKC obedience may be worth training with. Though they aren't usually into the drive building or capping, but can help spot the footwork, timing, etc.
09-02-2014 08:58 AM
Blitzkrieg1 Just wanted to add that with dogs that I have seen in which the teaching process was all done with a prey object the dog always lacks precision. Sits crooked or forges in the heeling etc.
Im in the camp that believes that its more difficult for a dog to learn new behaviors especially nuanced ones in a high drive state.

Its easy to teach a dog to platz but then you start adding things like being straight, and speed and correct body position etc. It gets more complicated then just..platz.

@Szaricksdad: If I found certain areas like sit or platz was killing drive I would just reward in those positions for a while. For a while I just rewarded on turns now whenever I do a turn the dog perks up because she is expecting a reward. Same with the motion exercises.
09-02-2014 06:55 AM
G-burg What I've been taught.. We don't really start moving forward until we have rock solid focus in basic under many distractions.. Then it's one or two steps forward, halt while the dog keeps it's focus up. Or take a step away from the dog and have him/her move with you into position.. Also teaching 90 degree pivots. We progress from there..

With my young pup, 8 months old.. I've just over the last 2 weeks started putting the ball under my arm while in basic and adding the distractions.. It's a slow process for sure, but I think it's well worth taking the time, since everything revolves around heeling in SchH..
09-01-2014 11:50 PM
szariksdad I like a lot of what Blitzkrieg says where I disagree is the whole sit then add focus. I find for most dogs that the sit is the biggest killer of drive. I get the dog in drive. So I open my body say with food or a toy ad bring them into heel and move out slowly to teach. What I mean is I say "heel and that time my right foot stays still my left goes back so that he can come up beside it and then move out slowly. If I want to work on the start position I will heel like a few paces and then stop and reward from under my arm with the toy or bring the food down from the shoulder and let him nibble.
09-01-2014 11:19 PM
Blitzkrieg1 Never reward anything less then correct unless your shaping new behaviors imo. Thats how you create sloppy looking OB that crops up at the most annoying times.

I only shape new behaviors with food. I teach the dog to be correct with food then add the toy for drive and speed.

Lower drive state = better learning and more precision.
Higher drive state = speed and animation.

Imo dont use prey objects until the dog KNOWs the command already.

Example: Shape heel with clicker/marker and food. Then add ball.

Also, like Steve said start stationary then add motion when you have good focus. Break up all complex behaviors similarly.
09-01-2014 09:46 PM
DTS Ok that makes so much more sense lol
I can picture it now
09-01-2014 09:41 PM
onyx'girl I would ask for the position, mark it, reward with verbal. Tease the dog up again and ask, reward with tug, mix it up so the dog will anticipate either or. If he sits crooked, verbal uh-uh and see if he'll fix himself, reward if so. Take your time, make sure his butt is down if he's commanded to sit, not hovering(a spotter is helpful with this).
Short sessions, IMO, put him up instead of playing fetch or something else. He needs to process his training session, no matter the phase. I personally think a training session is the playtime so we don't engage in play right after. The exception is tracking, we do have a reward at the end of the track with some fun, but truthfully my dog would rather continue on with the track than be interrupted by a toy or other reward. But we often have to go pretty far back to the vehicle so crating right after tracking still has some time spaced for transition/ not processing the track immediately.
09-01-2014 09:35 PM
DTS Just a few things I need to clarify.
When asking for a command; sit, platz, fuss into starting position, how do I go about this and kind of wave the reward around building drive? Do I start off waving around the toy, then ask for a command and give him misses until he complys and then reward and build up from there?
Say we are working on the starting position, and I say fuss and he sits crooked. Do I wait until he corrects himself and then reward or so I wave the reward around give a few misses ad then ask for the fuss again and repeat until he gets the position correctly and then reward?

ETA: I'm going to rent some videos on trainperview but I don't get paid until Friday so I'm trying to get an idea of what to do
09-01-2014 09:18 PM
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