|06-26-2014 11:47 AM|
Yep, to me too))))) yeah I will check it out.
Actually, my trainer already told me what to do. I just have to do it.
But I have to condition him to the Ecollar and I haven't finished it yet)))))
|06-26-2014 11:11 AM|
You can see the progression from interest, to arousal, to chase/catch pretty clearly.
The Lou Castle "crittering" method might not be a bad thing for you to do some research on if you haven't, at least for this particular issue.
|06-26-2014 10:20 AM|
About hand targeting and shake paws. In my experience, it has to be something dynamic. Like just having him sit is not enough for him. He will break his neck looking that way and it's cemented in that position. I can't move it with my hands (lol yes I tried)))
So for me it has to be a lot of movement. I usually can't have him watch me if the trigger is close. So it depends on how close it is too.
|06-26-2014 10:15 AM|
Yep, onyx girl summed it up nicely. It's all about noticing that he's about to react. That means that you notice all the triggers before he does, then - for me there's always a dilemma
Do I distract him and my goal is that he doesn't notice? Or do I let him see it and then work on distracting.
My trainer had me move back while giving him treats. Like I'm walking backwards and luring him with treats in a way. Or a few times if there was enough space (our sidewalks are tiny sometimes, so I can't just step aside and work with him, sometimes I have to go the other way away from the trigger) put him in a sit not facing the trigger and have him watch me and treat. Tug, any toy, I have a rock he loves and if I kick it - he will go crazy chasing it. Anything your dog can do to forget about it. (She said rock is a bad idea, files their teeth down. Too bad)
If you didn't notice early enough and he reacted then just walk away fast. Not much you can do, he can't hear or see you.
Also, if there's a trigger - just walking two steps, turn, two steps, turn, helps. The turns take their mind off it.
To sum it up. Notice before they do and distract them.
|06-26-2014 09:23 AM|
Best to always be proactive and not let the dog zone in to start that reactivity....
|06-26-2014 03:44 AM|
I have read about having your dog do targeting (touching his nose to your hand) when he is scared or unsure but that is the only advice I have found with regard to teaching an alternate response to fear. I would like to learn some other options.
I was thinking about teaching my dog to shake hands when he is fearful, because he naturally uses his paws when he wants something, and we use shake as his most common command.
|06-26-2014 02:05 AM|
What's fear aggression
Fast forward to 4:50
This got recorded by accident. It was dumb of me to have him there off leash knowing that they fight but when we train there he has always ignored the cat.
|06-26-2014 01:56 AM|
Yep same here, used to hide and now doesn't.
I will try watching his body language though I'm usually not thinking about studying him when this happens)))))
I will post a video of him attacking my cat. Interested in comments about body language
|06-25-2014 09:40 PM|
What's fear aggression
If you see a fear aggressive dog react, you can actually see the difference. They do look and sound big and tough but if you know anything about dog body language, you will see: a dog that is unsure about what they are doing. A dog that is leaning more backward than forward. Generally a dog with ears back and tail tucked.
My Avery was fear reactive (he would get close, but he generally didn't take that next step to actually bite). He would bark like crazy at any new person. But if they walked towards him, he would back off. He was very nervous in his big loud get away from me bark.
Also I should note that when I got him it did start as a flight behavior. He would run and hide behind me and ever so often he would do a low growl...but over time it escalated. To the point that at flyball another person couldn't be in the ring with us with out him freaking out.
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|06-25-2014 08:59 PM|
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