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Thread: what to do with a dog that shuts down/leash corrections Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-12-2014 11:24 AM
Lilie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Germanshepherdlove View Post
Right now I just use a flat collar and give little pops on the leash when he pulls. After a while he will walk a little better, but I can't get him to focus on me or take treats after I have corrected him. Right now it feels like we are just managing, not really getting any better.


How do I get his attention back to me? He just shuts down and his expression seems to go blank. I don't correct him very hard, I'm actually pretty weak in my arms and grip strength.
Your description is a little confusing. You stated that you provide little pops and your dog does better for a while. Then you stated that your dog shuts down if you correct him.

Can you describe what you are doing when your dog shuts down? Do you lose your patience and over react (not blaming, we've ALL done that!)?

I personally, wouldn't jump to a harsher correction if my dog was shutting down due to a flat collar pop. There is a disconnect in here and I think you need to focus on what happens between the correction your provide and the point your dog shuts down.
06-12-2014 11:02 AM
wolfy dog
Quote:
Originally Posted by martemchik View Post
If he’s pulling, and you don’t know how to use a prong or want to…you should start the “change direction game.” At that age…you’re going to have a hard time shaping a behavior, or getting focus without someone teaching you how to do it. But what you can do is that the moment that leash goes tight, turn around and walk the other way. Then again, then again. If you end up taking 3 steps and the dog just starts pulling forward again, turn around and walk the other way. If it takes 20 or more turns within 3 squares of a sidewalk, do it. You’ll look dumb, but eventually your dog will get the fact that pulling doesn’t get him where he wants to go, but he’ll eventually get to where he wants to go if he walks at YOUR pace.
Technically this works but if there is a distraction that he cannot ignore, it is back to square one and he will pull again because he can. It is the way I like to start and it has worked with all my dogs until this one and I finally resorted to the prong. The prong has been a life saver. You need to watch the Leerburg videos to learn how to use it effectively. In the meantime work on general obedience as well.
06-12-2014 10:51 AM
Lilie
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterisgreat View Post
You can but it's not a pain stim... Dog must understand and respect my leash pop means they are wrong. Prong/choke/ecollar/hands/whatever are a means to an end to build trust and mutual respect. Once that's established the tool becomes irrelevant and the voice should be equally effective
Amen!!!
06-11-2014 10:46 PM
hunterisgreat
Quote:
Originally Posted by martemchik View Post
It’s possible that he shuts down because the strength you need to correct with a flat collar…is extreme. I don’t actually think I can “correct” my dog on a flat collar without some type of hanging or cutting off of the air or blood flow. His pain tolerance is high, and a flat collar correction is just annoying. A prong, all it takes is a slight pop and he gets the point, he gets rewarded for doing what is asked, he’s happy again, and we move on.

If he’s pulling, and you don’t know how to use a prong or want to…you should start the “change direction game.” At that age…you’re going to have a hard time shaping a behavior, or getting focus without someone teaching you how to do it. But what you can do is that the moment that leash goes tight, turn around and walk the other way. Then again, then again. If you end up taking 3 steps and the dog just starts pulling forward again, turn around and walk the other way. If it takes 20 or more turns within 3 squares of a sidewalk, do it. You’ll look dumb, but eventually your dog will get the fact that pulling doesn’t get him where he wants to go, but he’ll eventually get to where he wants to go if he walks at YOUR pace.
You can but it's not a pain stim... Dog must understand and respect my leash pop means they are wrong. Prong/choke/ecollar/hands/whatever are a means to an end to build trust and mutual respect. Once that's established the tool becomes irrelevant and the voice should be equally effective
06-11-2014 10:41 PM
canyadoit Most excellent advice selzer Kinda the way I leash work my dogs Not a huge fan of the prong but I have them in kit box and have used them Communication is the key not force thru aids
06-06-2014 09:09 PM
selzer Stop following him. If he starts to pull, dig your feet in and wait for him to turn and, look at you "hey lady, get the lead out!" Then, tell him to heel. Every single time he starts to pull. Stop, and wait for him to figure it out that you move (good thing), when the leash is loose. You do not move when the leash is tight.

You don't need a prong. But it may help. If the corrections are causing the reaction where he won't take treats or focus on you, then it is the wrong approach with this dog, and I think that a prong collar may also be the wrong approach with him.

Try rally. The stops, starts, turns, come fronts, etc, keep the dogs guessing and its not just 20 minutes in one direction. Before the dog starts pulling you are changing your direction, and again, and again. The dog needs to pay attention because you are going places, and giving him praise and possibly treats when he goes along with you.

Also, a lot of times, the dog will walk a lot better if we are going quicker. If you can't walk quicker, than try thowing the ball for your dog for about 30 minutes prior to walking him -- tire him out first while he is learning, and then as he gets better at walking on the leash, you can maybe use walking to tire the dog out.
06-06-2014 08:39 PM
Harry and Lola I had trouble with Harry and pulling when walking, during obedience training there is no problem - he doesn't pull and heels very nicely. However sometimes when walking for exercise he would want to go ahead all time time. I have been working on him for quite a while now and can now say he rarely pulls.

What I did was walk him using a canny collar Canny Collar | Dog Training Leads - The Canny Company, this collar is like walking a dog with power steering - there is no jerking on you and if he does go to pull you can stop him easily. Using this collar gave me 100% control over his head and allowed me to easily work on his pulling with minimal damage and jerking to my arm, he learned to walk beside me. Eventually I phased out the collar and now walk with a martingale. Sometimes he does still pull ahead, I found he is a naturally fast walker so by me picking up my pace allowed him to not get bored meant we were able to walk much better together (plus was better for me!). If he still pulls ahead of me, I stop, call him to heel and then go forward, keep doing this until he is heeling perfectly.

That being said, I do allow him to go ahead of me on a long leash when I give permission, however when I call him to heel I expect him to heel and walk beside me.

I also use the canny collar at the vets as Harry can be dog reactive with some dogs (always the unstable ones like him!), I have 100% control of his head and he can't lunge forward.
06-06-2014 08:24 PM
onyx'girl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Strom View Post
It could be how it looks to him when you're correcting him, remember its his perception of it that matters. Whatever collar, the emotion you show when you pop him could have him wanting to get out of there.

Nagging is another problem when you get in a cycle of correction after correction without them being effective. You'd be a lot better off with a prong or if you are absolutely against that, look into some of the different techniques of rewarding for leash manners and have a consistent plan, but I'd definitely look to change what you're doing now.
I agree. When you correct you must make it meaningful to be effective. What I've found that works(on a prong) is to go quickly away from the dog when there is a reason to correct, making the dog self correct to get back with me in the 'safe spot' It removes conflict of correcting next to me and shows the dog that the place to be is with the handler. Make it count.
06-06-2014 08:16 PM
Chip18 Think I can help! This would be my first option:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FqtL6o7kDE

Then the prong, if you educate yourself on it's proper use:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8WEi9BfTIc
If you can do that "with" proper instruction...prong away other wise... No.
06-06-2014 08:10 PM
Germanshepherdlove
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfisher View Post
We avoided the prong to our frustration with Zeus. Then when he was 1.5 yrs. I'd had enough and put it on and played a game similar to the turn around game if he stepped in front of my hip.

Worked in 10 minutes. With a little repetition he's cured.

We're all better for it.

LF
Do you ever use the prong now?
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