|02-28-2014 03:15 PM|
If he is eating other dogs and animals feces, sounds like he's looking for enzymes!
Of course, horse and cat poop is a delicacy of most dogs! LOL
|02-28-2014 03:06 PM|
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have taught him the leave it command.but he only listens to it if im close by to enforce it(which I know is a training flaw on my part) is there anyway of scolding him for eating it because he ends up thinking its a game if I come over ? I live in an apartment complex so I cant really keep up with the piles of crap left around. Do those no eat supplements only work if he eats his own poop?
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|02-28-2014 01:55 PM|
Keep on leash
Mine eats cat pooh, not dog pooh.
He really relishes it. And, once it's in his mouth and on his breath no one can tolerate being around him.
We keep our GSD on leash at all times he's not in the fenced yard or in the house or in his pen. Too many cars around not to.
When he tried to ear pooh or even when he licks the grass where, apparently, another dog has pissed I give him a strong correction. Over time, he doesn't even go near poop anymore.
Why don't you just keep yours on leash?
|02-28-2014 01:50 PM|
I had my 1yr old GSD flown from Tampa, Fl to Colorado Springs, CO recently and now he's not eating. Is this common or should I be concerned.
|02-28-2014 11:27 AM|
|Blanketback||Some of my neighbors ride their horses down my road. People here were teasing me because I went out with a garbage bag to pick up after them, since they left some awesome dog treats at the end of my driveway. LOL!|
|02-28-2014 11:12 AM|
Very helpful information. Thanks!
I always had trouble with this issue particularly when we were feeding dry kibble. When we switched to home made food this behavior went down markedly.
Training also helped but she would still sneak around and gobble it down when I wasn't looking. Also, when the neighbor's cat passed away she had less to find in our yard.
The worst incident was when she ate a pile of bear poop, came in the house and proceeded to barf it back up on the carpet. Of course, we were not at home but visiting my mother in law. It was the worst smelling stuff in the world--wayyyy worse than dog or cat poop.
|02-28-2014 11:05 AM|
|Blanketback||You need to teach your dog to "leave it" (or whatever word you want) so that you can interrupt this before he eats it. Yuck, I know all about it. I've never used an ecollar, so I don't know about that - but it's not hard to teach them this. Good luck!|
|02-28-2014 09:57 AM|
Here are some suggestions:
Per Whole Dog Journal: The four R’s of dog training, can be used to address almost any training issue:
2.REDIRECT THE NEGATIVE
3.REINFORCE THE POSITIVE
4.REPEAT, REPEAT, REPEAT
Applying the four 4 R’s to address Coprophagia.
REDUCE ENERGY: “While debate continues as to whether coprophagia is a behavioral problem, there’s no doubt that dogs who are bored, receive little aerobic exercise or interesting play, and have unlimited access to their own or other
animals’ droppings will be difficult to discourage. Increasing the dog’s active exercise, giving him a larger assortment of interesting toys to play with, keeping the dog’s exercise area clean and free from
excrement, keeping cat litter boxes out of reach, and giving the dog several small meals per day rather than only one large meal can all help reduce his interest in coprophagia or at least reduce his opportunity to indulge”.
REDIRECT THE NEGATIVE: You need to first get your dog’s attention OFF the stool and to you. You may be able stop the behavior using a no reward marker (NO!) or duck noise (AAAAACCCKKKKK!) If this doesn’t work, you may need to try something stronger – perhaps an alarm, loud horn or whistle –any obnoxious noise to temporarily get the dog’s attention back to you. If this doesn’t work, try tossing a shake can (a small metal can filled with pebbles or coins) near your dog to get his attention. Some trainers have used a remotely operated citronella spray collar – when your dog turns around to eat the feces, immediately push the button on the remote to spray the dog in the face with the citronella spray to get his attention away from the feces. You may need to have your dog on a lead that you can step on, to prevent him from getting to the feces before you can redirect him. NEXT – let your dog know what you WANT him to do by redirecting his behavior. For some dogs, yelling DO YOU WANT A COOKIE and waving a treat bag in the air will get your dog running towards you! You might have to bring out your dogs favorite toy (A squeak toy? A tennis ball?) and entice him with that. You might engage your dog in a game of chase by running in the opposite direction! Do whatever it takes to get
your dog to come to you! The name of the game is “do your business, then come running to me for a reward”.
REINFORCE THE POSITIVE: When your dog comes running to you, enthusiastically reward the behavior with a verbal marker (YES, GOOD BOY) and an incredibly tasty high value food treat – dry biscuits aren’t going to cut it here!
REPEAT, REPEAT, REPEAT: When teaching any type of new behavior, you must repeat, repeat, repeat! Practice makes perfect. Consistency is critical. Behaviorists estimate that it will take at least a month – and possibly as long as six months –to break this habit, but with practice (and the use of very high value treats), your dog will learn that running back to you after doing his business results in good things happening to him – high value treats! Yum!
Here are some other thoughts:
Per PetMD: "For some dogs, eating feces is a behavior learned from the litter-mates and/or mother. But, dogs that are fed a low-quality food (or an insufficient amount of food) may also resort to eating feces in an instinctual attempt to balance out a dietary deficiency. This may be further exacerbated if your dog has a digestive enzyme deficiency, because it prevents any of the food’s nutrients to be properly absorbed by the body. Basically, your dog is attempting to eat feces in the hopes to forgo starving to death."
Dr. Karen Becker: "Dogs on entirely processed, dry food diets, who eat no living foods at all, will intentionally seek out other sources of digestive enzymes to make up for their own lifelong enzyme deficiency. Feeding your pet a diet containing human-grade protein, probiotics and supplemental digestive enzymes can sometimes curb the urge to find gross sources of free enzymes around the yard or in the cats litter box."
Coprophagia can also be caused by a Vitamin-B1 (Thiamine) deficiency. “B-1 deficiency can be caused by feeding your dog a low-quality or a nutritionally incomplete diet (Dogspire).”
Vitamin Code Raw B Complex: RAW ORGANIC FRUIT AND VEGETABLE BLEND(ORGANIC:STRAWBERRY,CHERRY,BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY,BEET JUICE,BROCCOLI,CUCUMBER,TOMATO,KALE,SPINACH,CABBAG E,CAULIFLOWER,CELERY,PARSLEY,ASPARAGUS,GINGER)
The dog may need some Vitamin K-1. You can supply this naturally to her diet by adding 1 Tablespoon of chopped parsley every other day (never use synthetic Vitamin K-3, also called Menadione Sodium Bisulfate, as prolonged use can possibly damage organs and have a carcinogenic effect). Additionally, “the flavonoids in parsley—especially luteolin—have been shown to function as antioxidants that combine with highly reactive oxygen-containing molecules (called oxygen radicals) and help prevent oxygen-based damage to cells. In addition, extracts from parsley have been used in animal studies to help increase the antioxidant capacity of the blood.”
Adding animal based enzymes and fresh foods that contain Vitamin B-1 (Thiamine) could curb this habit.
BileX is an animal based digestive enzyme and very cost effective. It contains Pancreatin, Ox Bile Extract and Papin (Papaya). Crush 1 or 1 ½ tablets between 2 spoons and mix into the dogs food. Bilex 90 Tablets by Douglas Laboratories Pro-Biotics also aides the gut: For Pets Probiotic Pet Probiotics | Optimal Digestive Health for Pets - Mercola.com
Another Digestive Enzyme/ProBiotic combination choice is called Sunday Sundae: http://ineedthat.corecommerce.com/Sunday-Sundae.html
Here are some fresh foods that you can add to your dogs’ diet.
Pork is high in B-1. 1/3rd cup served raw several times per week may help. Pork must be frozen for at least one week before it is given to your dog. Choose very lean pork such as diced “taco meat” without any seasonings added or purchase pork chops on sale, take off most of the fat and cut in smaller pieces before freezing. Introduce slowly in small amounts at first.
Liver from Beef, Pork(frozen for one week), and Chicken (no skin) contains Thiamine.
Asparagus (pureed), green peas (pureed), ground flax seed and tuna (cooked) also have high quantities of B-1 that can be added to the diet.
If you look for a commercially prepared “stool deterrent” make sure that it doesn't contain MSG (Mono-sodium Glutamate) which can be toxic. Please research MSG (Accent) before purchasing as it is VERY suspect of being a dangerous toxin:
Per Wiki: MSG is classified by the FDA as an excitotoxin, a dangerous neurotoxin that shrivels and kills brain cells and has been linked to causing seizures, migraines, heart palpitations and even cancer, amongst it's many symptoms.... in people! Never mind your dog, YOU should be avoiding MSG! It's definitely one of those things you should not feed a dog.
http://evidenceofmsgtoxicity.blogspot.com/: All processed free glutamic acid (MSG) – no matter how produced -- is neurotoxic (kills brain cells) and is endocrine disrupting (damages the endocrine system) (7-8). In addition, all processed free glutamic acid (MSG) will cause adverse reactions ranging from feelings of mild discomfort or simple skin rash to such things as irritable bowel, asthma, migraine headache, mood swings, heart irregularities, asthma, seizures, and depression when the amount of MSG ingested exceeds a person's MSG-tolerance level(9).
http://thehydrantblog.com/2012/07/31/dog-food-and-the-hidden-msg/ MSG or glutamate is a suspected addictive neurotoxin that has been associated with chest pain, headaches, numbness, asthmatic reactions, brain damage (in rats, rabbits, chicks and monkeys), depression, irritability, and mood changes, reproductive dysfunction in males and females, nervous symptoms (decreased sensibility in neck, arms and back) and irregular heartbeat. It’s also on the FDA’s list for further study for possible mutagenic teratogenic, subacute and reproductive effects.
Here are 3 deterrents:
If considering changing foods, I would suggest high quality food such as The Honest Kitchen Dehydrated Food www.thehonestkitchen.com , or Acana Grain Free www.acana.com or Fromm's Four Star Grain Free http://frommfamily.com/products/four-star/dog
Click on their “location finder” to type in you zip code for food retailers.
Hope this helps!
|02-27-2014 11:48 PM|
Poop eating off leash
Im having more and more trouble the older my gsd gets about poop eating. The problem is he isnt eating his own poop but instead other dogs and animals poops.He wont do it on leash but I live in an area where theyre are plenty of other dogs and I like to play ball in the feild. Its gotten so bad recently that he's been searching them all out there and even tries to eat it straight when.another dog is pooping.
Other then being disgusting it causes him to have diarrhea so I need him to stop. I'm pretty sure he doesnt have a deficiency in anything since he's on orijen and in good health.
Ive been thinking of maybe getting an e collar to help with this since I want to be able to enjoy off leash time. Do you think if used properly an ecollar would helpor should I try some other methods?