|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-22-2014 10:38 PM|
I agree, train the dog to walk on a loose leash. But, here's a tip. Tire him out first, than do a LITTLE bit of training. Throw that ball in the back yard for an hour if necessary, when the dog is panting (and you are not), then take the dog, put the leash on him and start training him to walk properly on lead.
When we teach STAY, we have the dog stay, say STAY, give a hand signal, and then we move right in front of the dog. And then we say STAY again and move back, praise and treat. We do this for a few days, and then we take an extra step or two away, and go right back. Eventually, we increase the time and the distance with the dog. Eventually we will be able to say STAY in a sit or down or standing position, next to other dogs, and then leave the room and go out of sight. But we don't do that on the first day -- obviously.
Why do we do that when we teach a dog to walk on a lead. We hook the lead to the collar and then expect the dog to go all the way around the block at our heel. That's nuts.
Instead, teach your dog the PLACE position, use a treat. Get him next to your side, Good give him a piece of that cheese. Good enough. After he knows he is going to get something awesome for finding the left side and sitting, then you walk three steps with that cheese in your hand, and treat him for staying in position.
Rome wasn't conquered in a day. Don't try to do it all at once. I do not expect perfect heel position on walks, except when we cross streets -- that is with trained dogs. But, when a dog tries to pull me, I dig my heels in or change directions. They don't have to be in heel position, but they need to leave the leash loose enough so that I am not being dragged. Because I won't have it. I determine where we are going, and if I have to turn around seven billion times, fine.
Rally Obedience is a great way to teach a new dog to heel. It starts out with a bunch of signs. Signs which change your direction or have you do a command. It is not boring walking at a slow human pace for half an hour. It is Walk five steps. Sit. Walk three steps spiral around these three cones. Walk seven steps, do a 270 turn. Walk 3 steps, sit Down Sit. walk five steps, Come Front, Sit, back one step. Sit, Back two steps, Sit, Back three steps, Sit, Finish, walk 8 steps and turn Right. Walk seven steps Come front, Finish around you, forward, Walk 5 steps and drop. walk three steps turn around in a circle. Walk four steps, 270 to the left, walk four steps, fast pace for 7 steps, than normal.
And so forth. The dog gets used to watching for what you are going to do next, and in training there is a lot of treats, and praise.
The way most people try to train heel or loose leash walking is akin to putting a dog next to a group of other dogs, saying STAY and then leaving the room for 5 minutes. And we wonder why too many people have trouble with it.
|01-22-2014 09:46 PM|
Originally Posted by xtramile View Post
|01-22-2014 09:41 PM|
This is something we have tried and it is working rally well so far. Take something that your dog has a lot of drive for, in our case it is a ball. we got a ball on a rope and would drape it over my right shoulder while he is sitting at my left hand side. If, like you said he is not jumping up a lot anymore and he knows that to get what he wants he has to get it through you then he should just stare straight at you/the ball. Do a couple sessions on rewarding him for being in this position (several times a day, for about five days). If need be keep a short lead on him to prevent slip ups for the first few sessions. Then slowly start taking a few steps and gradually ease it to very short walks with frequent rewards and a light hand on corrections.
Do a fair amount of research on proper use of prong collars and determine if it is right for your dog or not.With a gentle hand it has improved our walks a lot and allowed us to better communicate with our boy. By no means am I a proven reference, just sharing what has worked for us.
On a side note, I do not know your dog and have not read your previous posts, but it sounds like you do not have a "dominant" dog. Just a high energy high drive dog. From what I understand truly dominant dogs are rare and require professional training almost 100% of the time. They do not do anything they do not think they should, are constantly making attempts to "climb the ladder" and can be difficult to even live with.
|01-22-2014 09:37 PM|
Never used a clicker myself but to the OP try that or hire a trainer (that's not a yank and crank guy) A prong collar is a tool that is easy to abuse!
I used one on my first dog and out of my three the one that I used the prong collar on was the only one that never walked a loose leash worth a crap! No leash fine but not a loose leash.
Here's another option,
You could scan around You tube yourself fine something you like and come here for a second opinion.
|01-22-2014 09:07 PM|
It sounds like, for the most part, you are correcting him for not doing a behavior that he doesn't even know. You can't do that. That causes a lot of other problems.
Start by teaching him what you DO want...
|01-22-2014 09:00 PM|
Advice needed 8 month male dominant pup
Ok so jake is grand working with him hes clamed down sooo much jumps less lol but my problem is his pulling on the lead still took him a walk he nearly took me off my feet tried so many different ways to correct him and hes just not listening I dont enjoy walking him my hands are cut off me with the leather strap if lead tries majority of things we have tried the choke type leads tried rewarding him on a loose lead nothing anyone got any tips or advice whst do they thing of the hati is it would it work for such a dominant dog I was advised a prong collar but the offered as last option thanks xx
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