|02-19-2014 09:29 AM|
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|02-19-2014 08:26 AM|
I like your how to directions; they are very god.
Now that I know the rope you have used, I think you will find it snags on everything, is not very durable, and has a low break strength. For the next one you make, I would go with brass hardware (scissor snaps are good and can be had at Homedepot)
Seriously, give this stuff some consideration. SAR folks use it. I was on a tracking club and we all made our own long lines out of it. It is more forgiving when it winds up around the dog's legs and does not snag and is easy on the hands. To store them you can use a coffee can with a hole in the lid and just feed it in and it won't tangle on itself. It has about 10 times the break strength. You can also sew the ends before you whip them (though whipping is not necessary)
At 30 cents a foot you are looking at $15 for 50 feet.
BlueWater 9/16" Climb-Spec Tubular Webbing at REI.com
This is not the same as flat nylon..of course for $30 you can buy a 50' line already finished.
|02-19-2014 03:38 AM|
Tutorial is up :)
After hours of putting this tutorial together, IT'S FINISHED!
50' Long Lead Tutorial | Living With a Landshark
Please give feedback and fill up our FB page (linked below) with pictures of those gorgeous fur babies!!
Hoping to get more of the blog content up and running
|02-17-2014 02:37 PM|
When the strings eventually come out of the Gappay balls, I replace it with a slightly thicker cord that has no core. Once I make the replacement, it lasts forever. I used braided rope with a core once, never again! It stretched, ends frayed.
For long lines though, I use a cheap nylon line or one of several ASAT lines.
|02-17-2014 12:38 PM|
I don't know of any climbing ropes that don't have a white core? Kernmantle construction either dynamic or static and selection is based on application. The accessory cord is a lightweight static cord. (6-7mm vs the 10-12 or so for a climbing rope) Yeah it can burn your hands but does not snag and is extremely durable.
Another option not mentioned is tubular nylon. That is what most of the folks on my team and some of the LE use for long lines when they don't use biothane. I used to use 1/2" for tracking .... This is light, EASY on the hands unlike flat nylon and snakes through briars and shrubbery without snagging. Back when I made my line I just sewed it, then being a southerner, finished it with duct tape
|02-17-2014 12:04 PM|
|Liesje||I've used some braided cord for a few things but one thing to avoid is climbing rope/cord that is "cored" - basically braided around a white core in the middle. This is going to stretch, rip, and cannot withstand nearly the amount of pressure that true climbing rope can handle.|
|02-17-2014 01:55 AM|
|02-16-2014 11:56 PM|
That does look nice!
The problem I have with any nylon lead is that it is very easy to get a very nasty rope burn. A 15' cotton long line costs about $10; 30 foot about $20. A little less on ebay but not quite the quality I got from Tractor Supply. Can't find them where I am now, so Ebay. I'll confess that cotton can give you a rope burn, too, but nylon is quicker & deeper. -- so if you use nylon, be more agile than I!
|02-16-2014 09:57 PM|
I melted the rope together on the handle and where the fastener attached and used nylon cord for the lashings. I melted all the knots and ends. I had nylon already or I would have bought para cord because the nylon slips. The type of rope I chose resists knotting and kinking and it looks nice. I'll work on the tutorial tonight
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|02-16-2014 09:47 PM|
Did you use nylon rope or 7mm accessory cord? The cord from climbing shops holds up a lot better and does not stretch or snag compared to the nylon rope you get at places like Lowes or WalMart. 7mm cord would be in same price range.
I just use figure 8 knots because they hold well but can be untied easy, but the lashing looks nice. You can use the rubber dip stuff for the ends.
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