|02-17-2014 02:37 PM|
You probably already know this but, don't pull your firearm unless you intend to use it. It's not a noisemaker.
Let your puppy be free and be careful for stupid dogs like you just encountered! You did everything right in that situation. Bird dogs are about as dumb as they get in my opinion. They do their job well but are really stupid at everything else.
Build your dog's confidence with other known dogs who were well trained. He might get put in place a few times by the other dogs but they won't hurt him. At least the dogs I spend time with wont. They learn how a pack works and structure.
The worst thing we can do is allow our dogs to hang out with other stupid, untrained dogs!
Good luck and keep the sucker holstered unless you plan to use it! Trust me! Warning shots have landed me in county jail for a few days when I was younger. I now use my boots.
|01-27-2014 01:58 PM|
That might be part of my problem....Maybe I'm not being fun enough....hmmm...
Although, taking the advise pasted, today's walk was much more pleasant....I'll keep working it....A few yard dogs started barking, but I made him keep walking and had him focus on me....
A few yard flags were whipping around due to the wind....I let him check them so he knew it was nothing to be worried about....But in a controlled fashion....I still didn't allow him to stop the pace and had him maintain focus....Not perfect, but much better than allowing him to have his nose glued to the ground and setting the pace....
|01-27-2014 11:34 AM|
|Jmoore728||Thanks for the input everyone.... Great stuff... It's a lot colder today, not near as many distractions will be out.....60 degrees yesterday now 20 degrees with 30 mph wind....That usually keeps the sidewalk traffic down|
|01-27-2014 09:45 AM|
|carmspack||great suggestions boomer11. The most important early exercises are move with me , come to me . A recall game in the release period can be a recall . When the dog comes praise to the skies, make it physical - then push the dog off telling him okay go--- The pup will be surprised and excited by the game . Give a "here" or "come" call quickly after this release . Keep repeating . The quicker the dog comes in the quicker you are going to release him. It becomes a great incentive to come in to you and teaches the dog that a recall is not a fun ender , sentence , being caught , but the beginning of fun . Good association all round.|
|01-27-2014 07:17 AM|
From day one walks were never potty time unless I found a place to pull off -- periods of engagement were shorter as boomer said. I only demand heeling in relatively short segments but still loose leash walking the rest of the time.
Thinking about the other dog. Guage his control of the dog. No need for them to have contact until you have a better read on him. I would have both of you doing some engagement things near each other at a distance where you can both command your own dog's attention.
|01-27-2014 02:28 AM|
for me when i take my dog for a walk i start with a good heel by my side. his attention is on me. his focus is on me. we work on obedience during the walk. after a couple of blocks i'll release him and let him sniff and do whatever he wants. after a couple of blocks i'll have him back to my side and back to his "training" walk. then a few more blocks and i'd release for him to go play. his reward for a good training walk is that he gets released to go play. of course i'm talking about a more mature dog than yours with good obedience. for a pup that you have to have on a leash i'd keep him engaged with you for a while and his "release to go play" would be that he can sniff whatever he wants.
when i walked with my pup i did not stop. my pace was constant. you dont have to yank the dog along. just keep the leash by your side and keep walking. its ok to tug your dog along if he is sitting because he is focused on something else. that is entirely different from a pup that just sits because he is tired and doesnt want to go anymore.
|01-27-2014 02:10 AM|
head should be level , if he is on the ground he is in his own world --
you don't need to be rough - just keep on going
no no no , the dog walks at your pace . Of course you are going to be considerate of his age. Instead of a marathon , 10 minutes of "good" , several times a day are better . Keeps the puppies mind crisp . Keeps both of you from starting to day dream.
I see a lot of dogs taking their owners for a walk , they swing left to right sniffing every bush , marking fences , stopping for a sniff of the grass . The owner is just a facilitator going on the dogs walk. You see it bleed into obedience problems down the road.
|01-27-2014 02:02 AM|
I probably am babying him to much. I need to get the walking at his pace problem fixed ASAP.....that will be my the first thing I start tomorrow.
At this age, do you allow them have their noses down while walking, or do you want them with their head up ?
I have so much to learn.....Just when I thought I was improving, you guys hit me with some reality on several issues. Thank you much......
|01-27-2014 01:22 AM|
When doing marker training, he has great focus....He doesn't get a reward unless there is focus on me. I'm carefully with timing, my body language and body movement......I need to work on getting more focus when taking him for walks, etc.
When walking and he tries to sit and observe these dogs, should I just give him a quick tug to move him along and keep him up to my pace. I thought it was a bad idea to force him along at this age? I understand what you're saying. Everything you stated makes sense. I'm on vacation all week, so I will have plenty of time to try and get these things worked out or at least head that direction....
As for the hot dogs, I tried giving a few to the bird dog, thinking it might slow his roll....
|01-27-2014 01:07 AM|
Everyone is green at one point, I'm green, and I use this forum to help expand my knowledge or ask questions when I don't know... Like I stated, we haven't had many encounters with adult large breed dogs. A few, but not many. It's in the works though.
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