|10-04-2013 02:37 PM|
I run with my dog as well, he's a 10k runner (6 miles, which is a far as I'm willing to go with him in a single run, I leave him at home for the longer runs).
The best thing I did was teach him simple commands: forward, left, right, go wide, slow, lights, leave and my favourite 'walk', which I say as 'woooooaaalke'.
It helped ENORMOUSLY with regards worrying about falling over him, and 'forward' is really useful, especially if another dog is approaching directly. Archer- who can be slightly leash reactive to some dogs- is a different dog in the running harness. It's like a work bell goes off in his head.
I think what you're doing with this guy is wonderful, and I hope he and you have a long and happy partnership together.
|10-04-2013 02:24 PM|
I run with my dog, too, and what helped me was getting a "hands free" leash; it can be secured around your waist. So far the Flat Out has been great for everything. I tied a couple knots in it to have something to grab onto if Ralphie veers off to try and smell something. My cue phrase for him to focus on the running is "keep moving" so if he looks like his attention is drifting to a tree or anything like that I just give the leash a tug and say "keep moving." He'll only do this a couple of times during the beginning of the run and then he gets it that we're not stopping for a leisurely sniff. If he has more energy than me that day and wants to run faster than I can, he gets a tug with "slow down." These things I had to work on with him, so your new doggie won't likely be the best running buddy ever over night, but be consistent and he'll catch on pretty quick!
I also recommend a Google search for "train dog to run with you" and you'll get plenty of pointers.
ETA: Do enroll in a basic obedience class (like others have suggested) even if he knows basic commands already. I've said it before and I'll say it again, it's a great way to bond with the dog!
|10-04-2013 11:58 AM|
|Gwenhwyfair||RocketDog has a point....this dog may already have been trained. It may have been trained with German commands as well....getting a trainer that knows these dogs can also help quickly determine if the dog has had OB training and/or protection training too.|
|10-04-2013 11:45 AM|
Yup. PM'd RV a trainer recommendation.
Check your private messages RV and I have one other I can recommend if you are interested.
|10-04-2013 11:29 AM|
I agree with a trainer too. There are some good websites about learning about prongs, too, I think it's Leerburg? Anyone? The collar must be placed very high on the neck, directly behind the ears too, or it is ineffective.
He may already be crate trained. My large wire crate was around $90 bucks, I think. It's pretty easy to train them, I think.
But, a good GSD trainer is the way to go.
Anyone have any suggestions for his area?
|10-04-2013 10:54 AM|
The edit feature times out after X amount of time after submitting your post. I think it's 10 or 15 minutes.
Poor guy needs both lower canines removed?
As to the cat issues. This dog looks to be a pure bred working line German Shepherd. These dogs are often bred with 'high prey drive'. So yes, the sudden movements of a cat will trigger a response to chase and the dog may become very determined in the chase. Whether he'll bite or not is hard to tell.
It really depends on the dog but for some it can be trained, for some it will be a combination of training and management and sometimes the management will be necessary for a long time.
I apologize for sounding like a broken record but sometimes these high drive GSDs are a different ball game then other breeds and it sounds like this is your first foray with a German Shepherd?
If you're going to spend the money to get this boy healthy (which is wonderful of you!) I really think you should spend a little money on a trainer too. A trainer that understands this breed can evaluate the prey drive level of the dog, show you how to use tools properly such as the prong collar or an e.collar if necessary and set you and this dog up for success plus keep your cats safe.
I really hope this will be a successful happy ending for you, the dog and the cats!
|10-04-2013 07:14 AM|
|DHau||With time the cats and dog will get along. When I first brought the puppy home, the cat would hide. As time went by, cat came out and dealt with the sniffing and whatever. As long as you are watching the two, things will work out. Now here the dog and cat have accepted each other. They can be lying down in the same room within a foot of each other.|
|10-04-2013 12:59 AM|
This is odd. I couldn't find a way to edit my previous message. Isn't editing available?
Anyway, I had just wanted to add that the dog is 88 pounds.
|10-04-2013 12:17 AM|
Just to update on the critter. (Still haven't found a good name.)
He is 3 years old. He needs two lower canine extractions. Will make an appointment for that tomorrow (as well as a teeth cleaning).
No fleas, which puzzles me since he was a stray. He does seem to have itchy skin and may need a bath in something to help relieve that.
Have the neutering scheduled, a full ablation, and of course all shots and a chip.
He is still trying to eat my cats, so am researching what to do about that. I don't like having to imprison them in my walk in closet, large bathroom and bedroom (and the kitty door to the outside) when they have been used to having the run of the house for years.
I'm looking at some kind of crate training, but I just don't know how successful it will be. I think it is their quick motion that sets him off. I think he would kill them if he could get hold of them. This is my only major drawback. I'm sure I'll be successful with the running/walking thing, but this one worries me.
I tried the prong/pinch collar yesterday. I had been given one by a co-worker who had used them on her Dobermans. But the length was 17 inches and my critter has a 19 inch neck, so I either need to find links or buy a new chain.
I appreciate all the feedback I've been given here. Thanks much!
|10-02-2013 11:26 AM|
Also to inspire you as to what these dogs are capable of this is a video produced by one of the members of this board.
The first part is Obedience (with precise competition/focused heeling) the second half is protection.
Note how the dog doesn't leave the handlers side when heeling, you can get that (albeit more casual for jogging/running) with the proper training.
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