|09-22-2013 09:08 AM|
Puppies bite us because they like sinking their little teeth into skin
I also redirect and also if that doesn't work, then a correction..I also UP my exercise because a tired puppy is a good puppy
Biting is fun and also an attention getter.
|09-22-2013 08:47 AM|
correcting a pup when it's chasing the cats doesn't have to be harsh.
telling the pup "no" and moving the pup from the situation isn't harsh.
holdong the pup by some neck fur and saying "no" isn't harsh.
keep the pup leashed untill he/she learns not to chase the cats. i give
my pups a lot of freedom when it comes to the cats. i want allow the
pup to be overbearing.
to the OP: keep your camera handy. once the pup and cats start to get
along there's some great shots to take.
|09-22-2013 07:45 AM|
JMHO, but I don't let any puppy or dog use me for a chew toy. I will redirect, and if that doesn't get the message across, I will give a correction. A lift up by the scruff and stern no will curb hard biting. Mouthing that doesn't hurt I will allow. I don't do soft puppies however, so YMMV.
|09-22-2013 07:09 AM|
Relax your puppy is still a tiny baby. He WILL stop biting, and he will soon learn that the cats do not want to playso enjoy the puppy because they do grow up soooo fast and you will look back and wonder where that puppy went. Take lots of pics, and keep lots of toys handy and he will be very easy to distract and redirect since he is so young and is so busy exploring his new world. I would start thinking about getting him enrolled in Obedience Classes, and make sure his shots and vaccinations are all up to date before you start socializing him with other dogs in the Obedience classes too, Making sure of those little things will protect your dog from a lot of puppy borne issues/diseases and make the classes much more enjoyable for both of you from the very beginning. Hope this helps quiet your nerves so you can relax. You and your puppy will turn out just fine, even if you make some mistakes along the way!!!
|09-22-2013 06:30 AM|
Sometimes inexperienced owners can be bowled over by a crazy pup. I found it very difficult to deal with a fearful aggressive pup when I got it but had been well able to bring up other pups and dogs with no problems.
You have to manage and work with the dogs temperament and if it is off it is not easy.
|09-21-2013 11:28 PM|
your pup is only going to be as good as you are a trainer.
you train and socialize properly you're going to have a well
trained highly socialized dog. how your pup grows up, learns
and behaves is all on you.
|09-21-2013 09:15 PM|
To the OP - I am having slow but consistent improvement with my pup and cats with baby gates and treats when they can see each other. Some days it may feel like it is a stalemate, but I think patience is crucial here. And as the dog gets older and calmer it will become better Sookie did really well today when she came across Oliver (cat) unexpectedly when she was on leash in the hall; so hopefully it will continue to improve! Try treating and marking when your pup stays in a down/stay around the cats - this is working for us - slowly, but surely.
|09-21-2013 08:57 PM|
Basically if redirection doesn't work then a physical correction might.
Many times you gotta try different techniques to be successful
These things take time and patience.
Some times it's best to research and think about an issue, but sometimes you gotta follow your own animal instincts.
I'd advise anybody who corrects to do it with a clear head. Never act out of frustration with a dog.
|09-21-2013 08:53 PM|
|09-21-2013 08:48 PM|
You contradict yourself by saying you do not tolerate biting because it will transcend into adulthood and then advise the OP to redirect the biting. Not tolerating biting by physically correcting a puppy is contradictory to redirecting the biting to a toy. You also say that you redirect by using "out" so that contradicts your claim to be more fond of a physical correction. Do you really bite your puppy back like its mother would? I hope not...
You sarcastically ask me "you do realize that animals are exactly that" but that is exactly why I don't expect my different animals to work out their co-existence without human interference! I don't see many lions and gazelles cheerfully sharing space in the wild. If you truly advocate animals establishing a pecking order without human interference then I suppose if you had a pet mouse you would chuck the cat in its cage? It is because they are animals, and not people, that the "pecking order" they establish could get them seriously injured! It is seriously irresponsible to advise someone to let a gsd and cat just sort it out themselves - especially when the OP has said how much tension there is between them. Irresponsible to the point of negligence.
I can imagine many people will disagree with you on this, but I also agree. I do not tolerate biting, I believe it will transcend in to adult hood if you just allow it to go on. If you are a push over - your dog will find out. As for the cats... I have a 12 week old pup who loves to harass my Skam (shes about 4 1/2 years old, lived with big dogs since she came home with me as a kitten) and I was always trying to seperate them when he chased her. Then I took a step back - they are animals. They will establish a pecking order no matter what the type. Skam put up with it but as he got bigger she actually jumped on him and bit him good on his back as he was running off. Vado has backed off every since.
If you are feeling uneasy about that just try redirecting him with a toy or calling him over to sit if he tries to chase your cats. The biting and nipping I would also redirect (I use OUT). Offer him outlets to chew, hes probably still teething.
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