|08-25-2013 04:46 PM|
|cliffson1||I definitely don't think he is sharp per your description....I think probably better handling by you would have helped with this earlier....keep working with the trainer.|
|08-25-2013 11:21 AM|
|Liesje||I think this dog is at a stage in his life where he's getting more big boy hormones, testing his limits, not really sure how to act. I don't necessarily call it "fear". He needs you to tell him to knock that crap off and show him exactly what is expected/allowed. The prong collar should help and you will probably need to actually correct him, not just let the collar do the work (don't just let him pull/lunge into it). Praise him when he's behaving right. When he's not around other people, work on basic obedience and have fun with him. He needs to learn to trust YOUR judgment around other people.|
|08-25-2013 07:35 AM|
train and socialize everyday. i like training in short sessions.
each session last 5 to10 minutes. as the dog learns the
session can last a little longer. you can have many sessions
during the course of a day. start out slow. find a dog and train
near it. train at the dog park. don't enter the park. train
from a distance. as the dog learns start getting closure to
the park. train along the fence. that will give you a lot of
distractions but no contact. training at the dog park may
prove to be to much for your dog in the begining. if so use
something with less stimulus. if you train in front of a pet
store you'll have people and dogs as a distractions. if you
train in front of a store that's not a pet store you'll have
more people as distraction. you could invite a lot of people
to visit. maybe have the visitors stand in front and near your
house. use the people as a distraction.
|08-25-2013 06:52 AM|
Your dog is sharp, it's reacting aggressively to unfamiliar things/people that he fears. It's a natural response, especially common in livestock guardian breeds. its a trait that was bred into them because thats what shepherds required, a dig that would react aggressively to non-pack members. All dogs either choose fight or fight in such situations, it's all part of defence drive. So what you're dealing with is a very aggressive display of defence. You need to teach this dog that the people and other dogs that it encounters are things to be ignored, not threatened by and not interested in. This is done by starting at the minimum working distance - the closest distance that you can get yourself to a source of reaction (person or other dog) without eliciting a defensive response from your dog. You want to work on engaging your dog within this distance, reward it for engaging with you. The progression comes as you gradually decrease the distance to that source of reaction until you can comfortably walk your dog within close proximity to people or other dogs without an elicited defensive response.
You could do this with a prong if you,re struggling with handling your dog but the point is that if you're at a distance from a source of reaction that you need a prong to stop you're dog from chasing after and barking at someone/another dog, then you're too close to begin with anyway. So that's why I say a prong shouldn't be necessary. They're an awesome tool to have in your arsenal but if used without the necessary amount of forethought then you can end up making your dog even more neurotic around strangers because it begins to associate the pinch of the prong with the things that they're getting defensive about - thus worsening the cycle.
You need to do this around neutral strangers and neutral dogs. Don't get people to come up and pat your dog, this will only channel all their energy into your dog and elicit a bad response. Your dog does not need to learn to be best buddies with every joe blow that comes walking down the street, it needs to learn that dogs are just fixtures in the environment. Dogs are pack animals, they don't need to be best buddies with every single dog and person that they meet, in fact, the way we force this expectation on our dogs often is the cause of problems, I know it's caused some major dog aggression in my dog.
And don't feel totally down hearted, it's only natural and it's never too late to change and correct the mistakes that you might have caused by neg,eating the dog in its early stages of development.
Hope that helps.
|08-24-2013 10:27 PM|
|sarlo||we are getting him trained . i just met up with a trainer last wednesday, and he gave me a prong collar to use for now when on walks, but told me that it would take months pf training for him to change his behavior, and didnt give me much on what to do when he acts this way besides pulling on the leash to get him to stop . I just wanted little tips here on how to maybe avoid this behavior or lessen it a bit until he's properly trained, especially the barking at other people.|
|08-24-2013 10:09 PM|
come on, 8 months old and behaving in that manner. i know
it's always the dog but i think it's your fault. find a trainer
and train and socialize.
|08-24-2013 10:06 PM|
|sarlo||yeah fear aggression never came into mind. His tails never between his legs, and he does engage them. after barking at them and running up to them and everything, he just sniffs around and then he leaves them alone, only jumping up when hes really excited or energetic.|
|08-24-2013 05:53 PM|
Maybe you could give some more examples. Doesn't sound like fear aggression. Sounds like that dog enjoys barking and holding, but there may be underlying insecurities.
Do you find the dog ever retreats and barks or is it always going forward.
Does it ever tuck it's tail or give any fear or stressful signals
Does it always engage if it can, ie get so close to smell and check the persons body for items and scents.
|08-24-2013 05:17 PM|
How do you greet the pup/dog or how does the pup greet you?
Basically I wrote this reply for a separation anxiety case. It is mainly based on the meeting ritual and I think it is relevant to an excited dog jumping on people too. If you teach your dog to be calm when greeting you then you may be able to help him greet others in a more appropriate way
I walk in, ignore the dogs and make a cup of tea or get a bite to eat. I will acknowledge the dogs after a few minutes. This tells them 'when this guy arrives we relax and wait'. The dogs will be brushed off if jumping or excited.
The act of brushing the dogs off or pushing them and avoiding them jumping up is exciting in itself for a dog, so if the dogs are over excitable, I only open the door a small bit and allow the dog to get my scent and when they relax then I would enter.
At the beginning when you are trying to condition the dog to be relaxed when greeting you can open the door slightly and allow the pup to get your scent wait til it relaxes and then close the door and do it again and again until you see a relaxed dog or pup.
The aim is you walk in and walk out like that is normal and not a big deal for the pup or dog.
|08-24-2013 12:20 PM|
|sarlo||thanks for the tips! we've enrolled him in obedience classes already and will be starting soon.|
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