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Anybody competing in Nosework?

16K views 132 replies 23 participants last post by  TaraM1285 
#1 ·
Would love to know more about the sport of nosework, itself. Anybody competing in it?
 
#31 ·
"....the more I learn the more I realize how much I don't know...." --CynRes,

The more I wade into the vast sea of knowledge the more I need to surround myself with SWIMMERS haha......but I think what you said would make a better fit for a tattoo on my forehead!

Three of our girls are in tracking.... mainly for educating GM and myself. So I really love reading these threads.
 
#32 · (Edited)
I've been doing it with Yukon for two days now and trying to use the food approach.
He's quite determined.

So those that are doing it a little longer, what ya'll think?
What can I do? How many boxes? Anything else than just boxes? How long should I use the boxes before I use something else?

http://youtu.be/lEsIVZeY_B0

He really likes doing it, literally enjoying it and picks it up quite fast but I don't want to rush it.
 
#33 ·
I've been doing it with Yukon for two days now and trying to use the food approach.
He's quite determined.

So those that are doing it a little longer, what ya'll think?
What can I do? How many boxes? Anything else than just boxes? How long should I use the boxes before I use something else?

Yukon doing a little Nosework - YouTube

He really likes doing it, literally enjoying it and picks it up quite fast but I don't want to rush it.
We did two sessions with just boxes (an hour long class, probably 4 searches each + some time at home) before we moved to hiding in other objects. during the second session we worked on hiding treats in clear pastic tupperware with holes in the lid for scent to seep out, to transition them to searching for that in other areas, instead of putting treats in a pile of towels, etc. Then third week started hiding that NEAR the boxes, in towels, under tables, etc. Third week we got rid of the boxes and hid in kitchen places, etc. Fourth week we were doing vehicle searches.

Frag did this stuff as a puppy (I trained him) so he had a better idea of what was going on, but if Yukon is picking it up quick, there's no harm in trying to transition a little quicker or doing harder hides. You can always move closer to the hide to help him & then move back a step in the training process if he doesn't get it and you're moving too fast. Frag climbed a ladder to find a hide in our second week of classes. XD
 
#41 ·
As others have said, anything the handler can recognize as an alert is acceptable according to the K9 Nosework rules.

Our trainer teaches the sit and stare at source that Renee recommends. You can see an example of it in the video of Ruxpin that I posted above.
 
#35 ·
From what my trainer has told us, any behavior is acceptable as an alert, the handler just has to be able to recognize it and in a competition, say "Yep, my dog found it right here!" or "Nope, this room has nothing!"

Frag's "alert" so far (has not been developed much yet) is backing off of a scent and either sitting/looking at me, or just turning at looking at me. I can tell when he has a scent, so it's easy to know after I see him catch a wiff if he's serious when he stops and looks at me.
 
#37 ·
I have a question on the nosework. Am I correct in the understanding that the odors being used are odors such perfumed oils and such? Cannot find the rules.....
The three oils used are Birch, Anise, and Clove. Never anything else. These are the three that the dog has to be able to recognize and distinguish between.
 
#38 ·
gotcha. awesome. Something for you all to ponder. Using any other odor to start the dog's training is wasting effort. If you are using a toy reward, use the target odor with the toy for imprinting. You all can train your dogs the exact way that we train our narc,bomb and cadaver dogs. Personally,I would also put some kind of definitive alert on the dog. :)
 
#39 ·
gotcha. awesome. Something for you all to ponder. Using any other odor to start the dog's training is wasting effort. If you are using a toy reward, use the target odor with the toy for imprinting. You all can train your dogs the exact way that we train our narc,bomb and cadaver dogs. Personally,I would also put some kind of definitive alert on the dog. :)
Everyone does use definitive alerts for their dogs. They're all just different. :)
 
#40 ·
Well, FYI, standing and looking at you can cause you problems. I would suggest going with the sit if you want passive. Stopping and looking back in distracting venues could be misinterpreted by you. A sit /stare at source would be easy to you to do Also,FYI for those training in this,you will be faced with the same maintenance training issues that we cops have with regard to false alerts .
Aggressive alert is also easy to train and maintain:)
 
#46 ·
Well, FYI, standing and looking at you can cause you problems. I would suggest going with the sit if you want passive. Stopping and looking back in distracting venues could be misinterpreted by you. A sit /stare at source would be easy to you to do Also,FYI for those training in this,you will be faced with the same maintenance training issues that we cops have with regard to false alerts .
Aggressive alert is also easy to train and maintain:)
I guess it all depends on the handler/dog. Frag never stops looking and I just "know" when he stops and looks at me after catching a whif that he's found it. It's the only time he stops! :)
 
#42 ·
Yes, I understood that the alert ,per se, was not mandatory however, not having one can increase false alert issues. Just trying to help. I like to encourage this new thing because at least it shows a bit of the dog's capability of using its nose plus I think folks might enjoy it. :)
 
#43 ·
We had some trouble with Halo looking back after finding the scent and had to work on getting a few seconds of duration with the stare, so if she looked at it and turned around we'd wait for her to turn back to it again to reward.

She also tends to offer a down rather than a sit, which is okay as long as the scent is low enough, but could be a problem if it's higher up. Down is her strongest default behavior so that's what she'll do if I don't cue something else. We did start out cuing the sit once she was indicating on the scent, but need to fade that out so she does it automatically. She's still a work in process. :)
 
#44 ·
It takes time for you to get 100watts on that lightbulb..... haha
The main thing we use to get that solid sit/stare is the desire for the reward. Once they understand that the only time they get their reward is when they exhibit the response that you demand,they will be solid. :)
just never compromise. Always remember,when we work dogs it is a contract. The reward is their paycheck. Exhibit the behavior that I want and the dog gets his paycheck. Nothing less gets him paid :)

where are the rules for this? cannot find them . I have some friends interested.
 
#48 ·
Here's the rulebook, there were some changes made in November: National Association of Canine Scent Work (NACSW)


thank you! Notice that on the NW2 a definitive final trained response will be required and that it appears that the rules changed to present the possibility of a blank area. The blank area is where the false alert situation will come into play. Is AKC moving toward recognizing these titles?
 
#53 ·
I've got the Birch Scent. Just imprinting the ball with the scent and going to work Nala on the scent tomorrow or the day after.

Question, what known Indications are out there? Is it all passive indications?

Is the sit the most common indication?
 
#54 ·
Stella just finished up a nosework session not too long ago. She loved it. Her trainer started with food in boxes and started pairing the last class we went to. Unfortunately we had to take a break this month but I would like to start again. I am trying to decide whether to continue with nosework or try agility.....
 
#57 ·
oh,ok,pawing a car bad. sigh Well, that leaves you with the passive sit stare or a bark alert . I think there are regulations with regard to putting it too high. Passive dogs really have a problem with high. One can teach the paw touch as opposed to the dog scratching the paint off of something which is what I train:D

Also, why in the world are these "trainers" training the dog to find food??? There is no reason to start out with that unless someone is dragging out the training for more sessions which equal $$$$


I am going to help some folks down here with this training.
 
#58 ·
Because it's supposed to be a sport for the little man and some dogs just don't have that high prey/hunt drive but they have food drive, so they are working with food instead.

It's not the police or the military so they don't have to worry about drives. Just let them have fun with whatever the dog is offering.

That being said, I was shocked when I saw the price for the Nosework Camp. Over 700 Dollars for a weekend with the dog... sorry but I'm not going to pay that much.

And I wouldn't work my dog with food when hunt/prey is available but some dogs, just don't have it.
 
#59 · (Edited)
Interesting thread. Just starting Beau on his HRD indication. Have a BSD and wooden boxes for a week [we are rotating the equipment around the team HRD handlers-so I should get once a month or so].

All the blank boxes have visual tennis balls and he has unsuccesfully attacked every one with no balls, and is learning that the only way he is going to get is ball is to sit and stare at the right box. He has indicated on all the wrong boxes but he seems to have figured that out quickly. He has also tried to dismantle the right box too.

Having to elevate the set up as he is throwing a down and I want to encourage a sit.He is definitely staring at source.

Also- the backing up and dancing on the front feet. Is that an excitement anticipation thing? Should I adjust for less throw? Want to work towards a steady calm indication.

---

Grim was reliable with sit at source and I did not push the stare but I want it with Beau.
 
#63 · (Edited)
Also- the backing up and dancing on the front feet. Is that an excitement anticipation thing? Should I adjust for less throw? Want to work towards a steady calm indication.

---
.

That is the problem with the BSD. That is why I do not use it much. I can tell when a dog comes to me that has had over exposure. Lose that for a while. The dogs back up in anticipation of the reward being launched. Back up a step or two. Place the training aid or scented reward at the dog's eye level. Demand the instant sit/stare as close to source as possible EVERY time. Then deliver the reward. This must get to be a habit before you move on. Does this make sense?

Also, the Randy Hare style box is great for passive sit/stare and you can deliver the reward yourself. Look at those. I bought five of them but they can be built fairly easily

The main thing is to always demand the sit/stare close to source and never compromise. The alert needs to be rock solid before moving on to working scenarios. Once the lightbulb goes off the dog will transition the crisp alert to the field. BUT BUT the foundation must be there before moving on or it WILL get sloppy:)
 
#60 ·
I was thinking about building a two-man BSD. Meaning, without the automatic system. You can have a second person behind the wall that actually drops the ball into it without the ball being visible to the dog. However, that's the thing. You need a helper.
 
#66 ·
I think the general idea with food is just like the one you have with tracking. First the dog needs to learn that he actually has to search something and what he's searching for. You can't just put the source out and expect your dog to find it since he has no idea what he's looking for.

With tracking you lay food tracks and have the dog track the food. Same thing you do with the boxes. You put the food out in a box and let the dog search.
With tracking, then you add the articles to the food but you still have a piece of food underneath the article. At least that is how I learned it from my father. Then the food is completely removed and at the end of the track they get the jackpot.

Same with the boxes. Once they have the general idea what they are supposed to do, you add the scent and then you remove the food and use it as reward.

That being said, I wouldn't let them search boxes for food for too long. I'd have them do it two or three days and then add the scent right away and remove the food as soon as possible.
 
#70 ·
Try that with a bunch of people that come from the city and have never done anything with their dogs whatsoever. You go the easiest route possible. The easiest way is to go via the food.

It's not trailing, it's not SAR, it's not police work... it's a sport for every dog owner team out there. You want to break it down so the general public can do it.

What you do, or I do is different, we chose the direct way via the prey/hunt drive.
 
#68 ·
I took a class last year. It seems like the organization send out DVD's to anyone who wanted to "teach" a class or it was something they bought. I was friends with the teacher and she said I could borrow it but I never took her up on the offer. Reading through the posts it sounds like everyone did exactly what we did. It just seems to be the "hot" thing to do right now. Errow is way too extreme in his antics and indications meaning he actually wanted to search. I had a hard time dealing with the pet poodle strolling through the scents and clearing not wanting to be there. So I didn't continue on with it.
 
#75 ·
Those boxes are pretty cool. Dont get caught up in that tug stuff. Only works on dogs who like to tug. My soft mouthed retrievers would look at him like he was nuts......LOL He will tell you that too those boxes rock though and would not be that tough to build.
 
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