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#22 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,536
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Let me back up and clarify something. My dog has ball drive but not crazy over the top ball drive. What gets him amped up is the game. His drive is increased during the engagemt with me. My in laws have a lab that I could not ever call off a retrieve. He is old though. And he is getting slow. Often while playing fetch with the two dogs together I have had to call my dog back so the older dog can have a chance to get the ball.
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,943
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[quote=hunterisgreat;2647841]
Quote:
Yes, it's the control while in highest drive that "proofs" this type of obedience. I began at half way to the ball, now I ask for platz right before he reaches it.. when he is at his highest, about to get the ball, focused and going in for it. Must still listen to my voice and respond immediately.
__________________
~ Angel SG S-Hunter vom Geistwasser CGN TT (DM Clear) AIRPORT WILDLIFE & BIRD CONTROL K9 http://www.k9instinct.com |
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#24 (permalink) | |
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Master Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 779
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Quote:
First, if you want to enforce a command you need a way to enforce a command. So, use a long line and a smaller space (so she doesn't accidentally run to the end of the line and get enough speed to hurt you and her). Now, start with this: you already can have her wait before she goes to get it, so throw the stick, give "down" command (be forceful). If she doesn't down - you have line to correct her, if she does down immediately release with your release word to go get the stick. After she does this reliably you can increase the distance a few steps at a time. throw it let her run like a split second and down her... You can also go the other way: put her in a sit, walk maybe 30 steps, show her the stick / toy / ball whatever. tell her "get it" or something (dont use your release word - to me release word means ok you can go get your reward. It's unfair to add more obedience after - my opinion)... as she's running to the stick you step in front of her and give a forceful "down" command. You can put a little pressure by pushing on her between the shoulders if u are fast enough. You then increase the distance, but going backwards (i.e. you put the ball at 30 steps, walk towards her x number of steps and make her down there). If you want, we can do it together saturday I can show you on my dog (who understands the exercises already so it'll be smooth) and then we can work on Kira (who doesn't understand the exercises so might need a few attempts).Final note: I like to do one down every 4-5 send aways, no more but definitely less (sometimes I won't even do a down - I'll just send him and let him have it, and finished). Otherwise you run into anticipation of the down, or drive being lowered, etc... |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,383
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Don't agree with what?
__________________
Hunter, USA trial helper, Charleston Working Dog Club Training Helper Beschützer des Jägers v. Sportwaffen, HOT, IPO1, AD, CGC Katya v. Hügelblick, HOT, IPO2, CGC SG Aska v. Ketscher Wald, 2 x SchH3, Kkl 1 |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Master Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: CA, US
Posts: 712
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I see what you guys are saying. I'm training for emergency down by using my dog's toy drive to simulate a wildlife chase (closest chase-like event I can create myself) and I thought I'm suppose to work it up - start with no distraction, little distraction, then higher and higher distractions. Right now, I have difficulty getting a down in real life situations when she's on a chase for something and I understand it may just be a matter of more practice. Otherwise in practice, she is just not crisp enough but comply usually on the first "down" command. But it's the back-legs-down-then-right front leg-then-left front leg speed, like an old lady. I don't know how to get the faster down. She has no problem doing a fast down when we're doing tug training. Could be the drive factor but I want a fast down for emergency reasons to which she may not have the toy drive to help her.
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#28 (permalink) | |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,383
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Quote:
There are a lot of ways to get faster downs... some dogs just fight it. My male slides into a down.. its the only thing he does with "pop and flash".. Katya, my mal-like GSD, does everything super flashy, except her down. Its a step-step-step down... as of yet I have not gotten it to be a faster down.
__________________
Hunter, USA trial helper, Charleston Working Dog Club Training Helper Beschützer des Jägers v. Sportwaffen, HOT, IPO1, AD, CGC Katya v. Hügelblick, HOT, IPO2, CGC SG Aska v. Ketscher Wald, 2 x SchH3, Kkl 1 |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 4,689
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I would also have her sit nicely and make eye contact before you throw anything. She shouldn't be prancing around showing teeth and yelling at you.
![]() This is what we do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...2D_aYJgnk#t=0s Last edited by Sunflowers; 12-05-2012 at 08:25 PM. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,295
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I am glad to know I have been doing some things right, and glad to see how to go further. Rocket's training suffered a bit while I was working, and just today we started the down on send away again. He has gotten rusty.
![]() I'm so glad you ask these questions Anthony. We all learn much from them!
__________________
~Elrond's Rocket of Rivendell, aka The RocketDog 06/15/11 hiker and runner extraordinaire http://redheadsrocketsandramblings.blogspot.com/ |
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