Please critique this training exercise - Page 3 - German Shepherd Dog Forums
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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 03:30 PM
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I don't agree. I get the fastest obedience durning the highest drive moments. This is different than when the dog is chasing a squirrel. This is when the dog is 100% engaged with me.
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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 03:48 PM
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Let me back up and clarify something. My dog has ball drive but not crazy over the top ball drive. What gets him amped up is the game. His drive is increased during the engagemt with me. My in laws have a lab that I could not ever call off a retrieve. He is old though. And he is getting slow. Often while playing fetch with the two dogs together I have had to call my dog back so the older dog can have a chance to get the ball.
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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 03:52 PM
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[quote=hunterisgreat;2647841]
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Originally Posted by Anthony8858 View Post

#1, only ask for a down when the dog is in her highest state of drive to go get the ball... if she's "trotting" out or paying attention to you, let her get it and bring it back on those fetches.

Yes, it's the control while in highest drive that "proofs" this type of obedience. I began at half way to the ball, now I ask for platz right before he reaches it.. when he is at his highest, about to get the ball, focused and going in for it. Must still listen to my voice and respond immediately.

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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 04:31 PM
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OK.... This is something I had some trouble with.
How do I enforce a down, with a ramped up dog on a send away?

She's obviously in overdrive, and not looking at me
Anthony, I can suggest a few things.

First, if you want to enforce a command you need a way to enforce a command. So, use a long line and a smaller space (so she doesn't accidentally run to the end of the line and get enough speed to hurt you and her). Now, start with this:

you already can have her wait before she goes to get it, so throw the stick, give "down" command (be forceful). If she doesn't down - you have line to correct her, if she does down immediately release with your release word to go get the stick.

After she does this reliably you can increase the distance a few steps at a time. throw it let her run like a split second and down her...

You can also go the other way:
put her in a sit, walk maybe 30 steps, show her the stick / toy / ball whatever. tell her "get it" or something (dont use your release word - to me release word means ok you can go get your reward. It's unfair to add more obedience after - my opinion)... as she's running to the stick you step in front of her and give a forceful "down" command. You can put a little pressure by pushing on her between the shoulders if u are fast enough. You then increase the distance, but going backwards (i.e. you put the ball at 30 steps, walk towards her x number of steps and make her down there).

If you want, we can do it together saturday I can show you on my dog (who understands the exercises already so it'll be smooth) and then we can work on Kira (who doesn't understand the exercises so might need a few attempts).

Final note: I like to do one down every 4-5 send aways, no more but definitely less (sometimes I won't even do a down - I'll just send him and let him have it, and finished). Otherwise you run into anticipation of the down, or drive being lowered, etc...
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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 04:55 PM
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I don't agree. I get the fastest obedience durning the highest drive moments. This is different than when the dog is chasing a squirrel. This is when the dog is 100% engaged with me.
Don't agree with what?

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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 05:18 PM
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Don't agree with what?
I was responding to bearL. You posted while I was formulating my response. Sorry about that!
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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 06:36 PM
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I see what you guys are saying. I'm training for emergency down by using my dog's toy drive to simulate a wildlife chase (closest chase-like event I can create myself) and I thought I'm suppose to work it up - start with no distraction, little distraction, then higher and higher distractions. Right now, I have difficulty getting a down in real life situations when she's on a chase for something and I understand it may just be a matter of more practice. Otherwise in practice, she is just not crisp enough but comply usually on the first "down" command. But it's the back-legs-down-then-right front leg-then-left front leg speed, like an old lady. I don't know how to get the faster down. She has no problem doing a fast down when we're doing tug training. Could be the drive factor but I want a fast down for emergency reasons to which she may not have the toy drive to help her.
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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear L View Post
I see what you guys are saying. I'm training for emergency down by using my dog's toy drive to simulate a wildlife chase (closest chase-like event I can create myself) and I thought I'm suppose to work it up - start with no distraction, little distraction, then higher and higher distractions. Right now, I have difficulty getting a down in real life situations when she's on a chase for something and I understand it may just be a matter of more practice. Otherwise in practice, she is just not crisp enough but comply usually on the first "down" command. But it's the back-legs-down-then-right front leg-then-left front leg speed, like an old lady. I don't know how to get the faster down. She has no problem doing a fast down when we're doing tug training. Could be the drive factor but I want a fast down for emergency reasons to which she may not have the toy drive to help her.
Like I said... train at the level of *prey* drive... prey... where it is a challenge to get the behavior.

There are a lot of ways to get faster downs... some dogs just fight it. My male slides into a down.. its the only thing he does with "pop and flash".. Katya, my mal-like GSD, does everything super flashy, except her down. Its a step-step-step down... as of yet I have not gotten it to be a faster down.

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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 09:17 PM
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I would also have her sit nicely and make eye contact before you throw anything. She shouldn't be prancing around showing teeth and yelling at you.

This is what we do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...2D_aYJgnk#t=0s

Last edited by Sunflowers; 12-05-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 09:18 PM
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I am glad to know I have been doing some things right, and glad to see how to go further. Rocket's training suffered a bit while I was working, and just today we started the down on send away again. He has gotten rusty.

I'm so glad you ask these questions Anthony. We all learn much from them!

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