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Old 01-05-2013, 10:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by msvette2u View Post
How would a vet worm differently?
Exactly how I feel. We will go in, she will check her poop which is not nec. Cause it's 100% obvious and they will give her medicine which we can get anywhere. Don't see why that extra 300$ in expenses is necessary.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:12 AM   #12 (permalink)
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all puppies have worms. Period. They are born with them. As a breeder, I start pups on a cycle of worm medicine as soon as they are eating food (gruel). I mix in either panacur or strongid at 1cc per 10 pounds of puppy. Two days, wait 10-12 days and repeat - usually 3 times...rarely do I send a puppy off with roundworms. Once in a while I will see a few discharged by a puppy.

Since the pup was not from a litter from a knowledgable breeder, it is not surprising that 1. it has worms, and 2. they gave him to you too early....he was probably eating on his own and taking care of pups is alot of work and poop to clean up!

A puppy with this heavy a load of rounds should be wormed - I think you can get Nemex which is one of the other brand names for strongid in Tractor Supply or online....doseage is easy - 1 cc for 10 pounds, and give 2 or 3 days in a row....wait 10 days (some people say 14 days) and repeat....with a pup throwing up worms, I would do 3 days in a row and do 1.5 cc per 10 pounds as this is a very safe wormer.

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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puppies need to be wormed every 2 or 3 of weeks with pyrantel paomate from about 4 weeks until 12 weeks or longer if needed. I start worming babies at 4 weeks, then at 6 weeks then at 8 weeks, then hopefully vet will continue cycle until 3 or 4 months old. Pyrantel paomate is pretty safe, we give it to puppies and kittens all the time, even older dogs if needed. Piperzine, sold in lots of stores is the same type of wormer, but is bitter tasting, while paomate is almost banana smelling and they seem to really like it.
Roundworms grow in cycles, if you worm, you kill the adult ones, hence the globs pooping out or even throwing up. But, you need to keep worming every 2 weeks because the undeveloped ones still in the puppy/kitty will develop into adults and need to be killed.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Mine had worms when I got her too. I used the Safe Guard 4 Canine Dewormer(Petsmart has it and its good for 6 weeks and older) Gave her it and within a very short time she pooped out worms that were about as long as a ruler. It was 2am and everyone in my house was up, I couldn't believe what I was seeing I waited a little bit after I treated her and then brought her poop in for a fecal and it came back negative.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Not impressed with the breeder in that they let a puppy go at less than six weeks - about four weeks to early! Also not impressed because your puppy should have been wormed by the breeder!
IMHO you should go to your vet.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfstraum View Post
all puppies have worms. Period. They are born with them. As a breeder, I start pups on a cycle of worm medicine as soon as they are eating food (gruel). I mix in either panacur or strongid at 1cc per 10 pounds of puppy. Two days, wait 10-12 days and repeat - usually 3 times...rarely do I send a puppy off with roundworms. Once in a while I will see a few discharged by a puppy.

Since the pup was not from a litter from a knowledgable breeder, it is not surprising that 1. it has worms, and 2. they gave him to you too early....he was probably eating on his own and taking care of pups is alot of work and poop to clean up!

A puppy with this heavy a load of rounds should be wormed - I think you can get Nemex which is one of the other brand names for strongid in Tractor Supply or online....doseage is easy - 1 cc for 10 pounds, and give 2 or 3 days in a row....wait 10 days (some people say 14 days) and repeat....with a pup throwing up worms, I would do 3 days in a row and do 1.5 cc per 10 pounds as this is a very safe wormer.

Lee
You can start worming puppies @ 2 weeks, we do 2, 4 6 and 8 weeks here.

Since we have the rescue we buy the human preparation, it is much more concentrated than the dog one, and cheaper even, so it's way cheap to do it, as they need so much less of it.

All other dogs and puppies are wormed upon intake.

Piperazine, which is something you often find at petstores, always makes the dogs puke. I never use it, although I did when working at the shelter as it was so much cheaper than pyrantel, and I didn't know about the human preparation back then.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #17 (permalink)
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everyone in this scenario tried to save money.

the family that had the pups -- don't want to say what is on my mind - it is not good !
toss the pup out as soon as possible

who knows what other issues there are .

who knows what the temperament is like .

New owner you have just encouraged people like this to continue because there is $$$ in it for them.

My thought is - get this pup to the vet because I bet it has never had a health check . For a worm load to be that heavy you can bet the pups nutrition has been compromised. Likely the pup was on the worst , cheapest food possible . You may want to know if the pup has a good heart, whether or not it may have a hernia , take a stool sample in to test for ALL worms .

It is not going to cost you 300 $$$'s . Not for worming .
Hopefully your dog is okay and hopefully poor breeding and raising will not cost you many $$$$$'s down the line.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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People are assuming that the OP got a dog from a breeder and paid money for it...I'm thinking that the OP didn't pay at all or a ton of money for the dog, got the dog from someone they know(possibly a oops litter?) like they stated. The question at this point really isn't where the dog came from, what was paid for it, or its age. The OP needs help getting the puppy well...everything else is done, no sense in making anyone feel bad...the puppy didn't do anything wrong and didn't ask to be here(no matter how it got here)....Lets get the puppy better
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by orgazmo1009 View Post
Exactly how I feel. We will go in, she will check her poop which is not nec. Cause it's 100% obvious and they will give her medicine which we can get anywhere. Don't see why that extra 300$ in expenses is necessary.
Why would it cost you $300? It should be the cost of a fecal test. Have you not had the puppy to the vet at all yet?

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I had a puppy puke up worms at 6 weeks. The vet would only deworm for one worm at a time because he was worried about to many dying off at once and causing a blockage.
I didn't realize I would need to expand on this. This puppy had 3 different types of worms and was dewormed with the appropriate dewormer for the specific worm. I was there...they did come out in large clumps that could have easily caused a blockage. If you do a quick google search you will see that, while many dewormers are general to most worms, there are different dewormers for different parasites and obviously in my case she needed different dewormers. I have no idea what worms your puppy has. I was simply sharing my experience with you.

You have several breeders and one very experienced vet tech who responded. Lee (Wolfstraum), Sue (Selzer) and WyomingGrandma gave you excellent advice and wouldn't steer you wrong. Follow their instructions and you should be fine. I wish you the best with your puppy.

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. take a stool sample in to test for ALL worms .
And another experienced breeder I missed listing above. THIS^^^ was the reason I posted my experience. If a fecal test is not done, you have no idea what kind of worms you are trying to kill off.
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selzer View Post
I know that some have suggested I use panacur at some point besides just strongid.

I get nervous when pups have symptoms from a worm infestation. To me a pup with worms is no big deal, worm them, but if they are having symptoms, then the infestation is great enough to go up a level in severity, and I wouldn't be comfortable with a young puppy having vomiting from worms, I would want a vet on board.
I've used both Panacur and Strongid. Strongid for "normal" puppy worms and Panacur if there are any tapeworms. Both are good products.

I do agree if puppy is puking up a bunch of worms, you need to get to the vet. A puppy at that advanced stage of worms you need to diagnose properly and treat properly. Don't play around with them, your pup is obviously VERY heavily infested and that can kill a dog so young. If puppy is puking then dehydration could kill it really quick too. And as someone else mentioned, that many worms your puppy is probably getting very little nutrition no matter how much you feed. It won't cost you $300 to treat the worms, your dog is going to need to be checked by a vet anyways so kill two birds with one stone. Pay the price of the check up and then get everything done in one go; the fecal and the dewormer. Puppy is going to eventually need vaccinations too, you need to get the puppy cleared of worms and get it healthy so you can get those. A fecal will also be the only option for picking up parasites that can't be seen without a microscope. Puppy could have something like coccidia which needs a VET to diagnose and treat.
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