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His momma has his back?

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Moriah 
#1 ·
My dog was jumped at 13 weeks by two dogs bigger than him in puppy kindergarten and while my dog was screaming the instructor said to "let the dogs work it out." We never went back and I found a new trainer.

My dog was "reactive" towards other dogs after that and the new trainer helped me to greatly lessen the problem. The new trainer said I had to absolutely ensure that no dog ever got to my dog again.

I've read over and over on this forum how people have protected their GSDs from other dogs in public, and I wondered, "What I would do?"

Usually I go at late hours to my favorite park, but today I went earlier. Well, while I was giving my dog a drink of water from a bowl I brought at a park water fountain, a loose dog came up. I turned around and there was this bigger dog. Without thinking, I got my pup behind me and told the man and woman walking by to get their dog. They weren't concerned, and did nothing, and kept walking.

The dog kept advancing and came up to me and I blocked him. He looked like he was interested in my dog, so I tapped him with the palm of my hand on the side of his muzzle and he stopped.

Then the lady rushed over and screamed at me for hitting her dog. I said, "Your dog is not under control, get him away from my dog. My dog has already been attacked by another dog." She grabbed her dog (rougher than I touched him) and she said to me, "You're making your dog a wussie!!"

I knew better than to say anything. I wanted to say, "Well, there's a whole bunch of GSD owners (on the forum) who know what I'm doing!!"

The best news--my boy never reacted at all. He knows his momma has his back??
 
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#2 ·
It really has to come down to how your pup was reacting and the other dogs body language.

If your dog was acting afraid or reactive, then you are in the right. If your dog was calm and relaxed and the other dog was calm and relaxed and behaving appropriately and YOU were panicking, then I would worry you have now shown your dog that other dogs are scary.

It's a fine line. You don't want your pup to get from you that dogs are scary, if anything you want him to think that other dogs are no big deal.

So a friendly dog approaches, you just move on. Get your dogs attention and move on. No big deal. Don't create a scary confrontation when there is none.

If the dog was behaving aggressively, or your pup was reacting negatively, then stepping in and moving the other dog away is warranted, but then just move on. We can't dwell on the past. Our dogs don't.


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#4 · (Edited)
It really boils down to what the other dog is doing. I had a happy dobe approach ty and I did nothing because ty can handle a happy dog, usually by rolling around playing with him lol but I get the odd dog who charges aggressively and tyson remains calm because I step in and tell the agro dog to go home sternly.
I do not think I would step if the dog was not agro just bc they have there own social process.

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#5 ·
My dog was jumped at 13 weeks by two dogs bigger than him in puppy kindergarten and while my dog was screaming the instructor said to "let the dogs work it out." We never went back and I found a new trainer.
Good for you! That is NOT the way to instill confidence in a young puppy. :(
 
#12 ·
Good question. I want him to ignore people and other dogs in public.

I take him everywhere it's possible. I want him friendly and socialized to my friends. For instance, after my haircuts, my hair dresser always comes out to my truck and I get Simon out of the trunk for her to visit. He stays in the trunk at friends houses, but they always come out to visit before I leave. Simon waits well in his crate in my truck. We usually go to a park on the way home.

Simon is very friendly to adults, children, and babies. He's good with my three little dogs and two cats. My breeder really socializes her litters. She takes litters to a retirement center for the elderly to hold; they are socialized to horses, farm equipment, etc.

I live in a downtown area with full fencing--cedar in back and 4-ft chain link in front. Lots and lots of foot traffic goes by my house. Simon has been amazing. Since he came home at 9 weeks, he watches people, bicycles, skateboards, strollers, etc., go by without any response--except he stops playing and watches them until they pass the property.

I do not want him going to the fence and interacting with anyone. I've never had to train this. He does it automatically. He likes kids , but does not go to the fence. Since I have a lot of kids playing around my neighborhood, I don't want any trouble in the future with a child doing something "stupid" with my dog right there at the fence.

I am ALWAYS outside with Simon whether front or back yard. He has a very high prey drive and so we play a lot and he knows there is always more fun inside the fence than outside it.

He was very reactive to the American Bulldog next door. Fence aggression, barking, etc. The trainer really helped with this and I have spent hours with Simon on a lunge line playing with him and correcting inappropriate reactions to the bulldog with a prong collar. (Control Unleashed was not really helping, although I am continually working on those exercises--like rewarding default behaviors like sit and down, etc.)

The bulldog shows aggressive posturing (staring eyes while frozen with tail up), but he does not bark--he will do fence aggression big time, if my dog starts it. Simon has gotten much better with lowering his threshold, but I doubt these two males will ever be "friends."

Simon is a West German Showline with a lot of Kirschental bloodlines. I wanted him as a companion and as a deterrent as my neighborhood is not as secure as it used to be. I would like to do nose work with him so, of course, I would like him not reactive to other dogs in classes. My OB trainer gives private lessons and has years as a helper and very involved in SCH.
 
#13 ·
Have you taught "leave it" I did this with shiggies when she barked at things thru the window. Food was miss shiggs motivation lol she would go off and I would distract her with cheese, she made the connection but now when people pass by she is up my ass looking gor a treat, that's shiggs tho :). Maybe leave it and then make your activity way more exciting then greeting or fence fighting?

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#14 · (Edited)
Have you taught "leave it" I did this with shiggies when she barked at things thru the window. Food was miss shiggs motivation lol she would go off and I would distract her with cheese, she made the connection but now when people pass by she is up my ass looking gor a treat, that's shiggs tho :). Maybe leave it and then make your activity way more exciting then greeting or fence fighting?

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:groovy: My dog is very food and toy motivated.

I need to rehearse what to do in MY MIND if a loose dog comes up to us on a walk.

GSDSAR noted that it's best to be neutral as a handler and make no big deal about it and walk-on if the loose dog appears to show no threat and if my dog is relaxed.

Keeping in mind what you are saying, I need to be ready with food or toy if my dog is reactive, but dog shows no threat, so that I can keep my dog focused on me.

Either way, I need to relax and follow through on my plan. If a loose aggressive dog comes up, I'll have to trust my instincts...
 
#15 ·
Yes well it is all dependant on what you want, you know your dog right! if you want the "pay no attention" then try the "leave it" command. If you want your fog to just be neutral and okay with dogs approaching you can do that by going to a training class and targeting the issues and working on them but if yyour dog is not reacting like a nutter to non agro approaching pups chances are your dogs is perfectly fine at reading social cues.

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