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Old 02-19-2014, 09:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It makes me wonder what if he was able to get up close to a dog and sniff/inspect another dog? Would this help at all. It might not be he wants to hurt another dog maybe BC he feels at a disadvantage and thinks it's a threat? We had dogs come in our yard before and he just sniffed them. They weren't on a leash either. He just ran around them not knowing what to do BC he is not use to encountering another dog up close. I assume it's my fault for keeping him away from other dogs! I can admit that but now I have to correct it so he isn't this way. I'm not saying I want him to be good buddies. I want him to not act like an idiot and not pull me trying to get to an other dog. I can't take him places this way. The trainer also said to take him in the car with my as much as possible even on short trips which I have done today. There is no way he will be able to go into an actual class and learn more if he acts this way. All these dogs walked past him and he went crazy. I just stood there thinking I don't know what to do.


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Old 02-19-2014, 09:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok DJ. I get it now. I will start that ASAP. Make more sense now. Sorry u basically had to spell it out for me although I do appreciate it a lot. He is a great dog at home but his manners suck. He knows his commands well but has soooo much energy. More stimulation and exercise will help I know! I also bought one of those toys where he has to search for treats and find out how to get them out. He needs a job. She also said to put him in his cage the same time every night and leave him for a bit for downtime. Also to make everything routine and let him know I'm the boss!


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Old 02-19-2014, 09:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It makes me wonder what if he was able to get up close to a dog and sniff/inspect another dog? Would this help at all. It might not be he wants to hurt another dog maybe BC he feels at a disadvantage and thinks it's a threat? We had dogs come in our yard before and he just sniffed them. They weren't on a leash either. He just ran around them not knowing what to do BC he is not use to encountering another dog up close. I assume it's my fault for keeping him away from other dogs! I can admit that but now I have to correct it so he isn't this way. I'm not saying I want him to be good buddies. I want him to not act like an idiot and not pull me trying to get to an other dog. I can't take him places this way. The trainer also said to take him in the car with my as much as possible even on short trips which I have done today. There is no way he will be able to go into an actual class and learn more if he acts this way. All these dogs walked past him and he went crazy. I just stood there thinking I don't know what to do.


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It's not your fault. He is either aggressive, excited, or fearful of them - add in the tension of the leash and he is reactive because he can't get to the other dogs or away from the other dogs, wherever it stems from. It is completely separate from how social he may be off leash, but allowing him to meet other dogs when he is behaving this way is unacceptable and will just reinforce that he will get what he wants if he acts up.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok DJ. I get it now. I will start that ASAP. Make more sense now. Sorry u basically had to spell it out for me although I do appreciate it a lot. He is a great dog at home but his manners suck. He knows his commands well but has soooo much energy. More stimulation and exercise will help I know! I also bought one of those toys where he has to search for treats and find out how to get them out. He needs a job. She also said to put him in his cage the same time every night and leave him for a bit for downtime. Also to make everything routine and let him know I'm the boss!


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You are very welcome. I have had reactive dogs and worked through it using this method with great results and use this method for all of my students in group classes or for private lessons and it works VERY well for every dog I've encountered so far.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Think of it this way - there are many dogs who are very dog aggressive - would kill a dog if they came into contact with it...

But are trained to not be reactive on leash, so they could be within a few feet of other dogs, walk next to them leashed, etc. very calmly - just couldn't actually come into contact with them or they would hurt them. This is a great example of how aggression and reactivity do NOT go hand in hand always. They can, but they are not dependent on each other whatsoever.

9 times out of 10, the students that I have who are reactive towards other dogs are really friendly off leash and go to daycare/the park, etc and play all the time. The tension of the leash is just too much for them and they don't know what to do other than bark and pull.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok thanks so much. I will keep in touch and see if this improves. Wish in a perfect world we didn't have to use a leash and maybe I could see if that was it which it may be. But for now this will have to work. I won't take any chances with other dogs. I have to be trained to handle him and I totally get that! Wish me luck.


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Old 02-20-2014, 12:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm working on this very issue with an over excited 5 mo old puppy. I stopped going to puppy classes because...well multiple reasons, but mainly this issue.
Love your instructions DJEtzel.
I go to Petsmart right now and stay out in the parking lot. I'm about 10 parking spots away from the entrance & am using the parking spaces as my progression markers. He actually only barked once today. If he is nonreactive the next few times I am going to move myself up a parking space or two.

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Old 02-20-2014, 07:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Kathryn. When he was a puppy it didn't seem to matter to him. He took classes up to intermediate but these only help with commands. It's more of a behavior thing at this point but I am going to start doing what DJ said and hope this works. The parking lot thing sounds like a great idea. To me it's like to reward our dogs and take them inside when they are acting like that. Show them they have to behave then they get rewarded. makes sense.


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Old 02-20-2014, 08:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Kathryn. When he was a puppy it didn't seem to matter to him. He took classes up to intermediate but these only help with commands. It's more of a behavior thing at this point but I am going to start doing what DJ said and hope this works. The parking lot thing sounds like a great idea. To me it's like to reward our dogs and take them inside when they are acting like that. Show them they have to behave then they get rewarded. makes sense.


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Old 02-20-2014, 08:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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the petsmarty type place is probably the worst place to try to fix a dog reactivity problem . You are likely to meet more people like yourself , and there is no control of the environment or encounters , all which might fuel the very problem which you are trying to remedy. Too many possible "spontaneous eruptions". People have dogs there that are clearly confrontational - sometimes both the dog and the person !
They don't recognize their own dog's signals nor your's .

A socialized dog need not make contact or play with other dogs. The dog needs to be able to negotiate and deal with the presence of other dogs and be in an emotionally level, neutral, self controlled and controllable state. On and off leash .

The dogs that are reactive on leash but okay when off leash are in the drivers seat , acting out of frustration. I think that early socialization where there is too much uncontrolled exposure to other dogs without instruction . They see the dogs , they focus on the dogs , they are released to "go" , and as dogs do they focus on the one thing , the other dogs , anything else becoming an obstacle . Later when the expectation is there , they become near neurotic leading to all sorts of unwanted behaviour.
Too much freedom , too soon. A pup should be taught how YOU want him to behave in the presence of other dogs and when you have good attentive behaviour, a good bond established with yourself , manners and control to be able to be called back to you reliably , then you can give freedom to romp with dogs that you know .

In the meantime I would stay away from those places and situations where the dog may go into this aroused excitable state. Take him for walks at times and to places where there won't be encounters. Decompress, get to a calmed state , work your connectivity and obedience and positive reinforcement first. Then plan to set up a situation with a co operative dog owning friend , who has a dog with manners . Have them appear at a distance beyond your dogs arousal point. Have the dog move side ways then away from , not approaching . Have your dog attentive to you. Praise. That is a beginning.



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