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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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And correction, to my first post...full on attack mode actually wasn't attack mode. It was an angry growl and jaws snapping in the direction of the cat. Shelby never actually touched the cat with her mouth. I was just out of the incident and now realized I could have worded that better.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,950
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Quote:
__________________
Misty- Samoyed Mix Tannor- Golden Retriever CGC Robyn- German Shepherd CGC Cats-Thunder, Harley, Miley, Bandit, and Ferah RIP Boo..Black Lab "A dog is the only thing on this earth that loves you more than he loves himself." |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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Brought home a new roast beef flavored Nylabone and tried to let one of the cats be around. It did not turn out well at all. I let both sniff it and Shelby immediately went into death stare at the cat. I removed the bone but lost the grip on the dog and she started her territorial bark and chased the cat off. She didn't just do a short chase to scare her off. She was going after her. I'm worried now more than before because I know the male cat wouldn't run. He'd stay and shred her face. Not a good situation. Please help! Should I give up on making peace and let cats stay away during the food and special toy time?
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: California, US
Posts: 5,928
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Quote:
I suspect that if the cat stayed and fought your problem would be half over! (Not well though! as the cat would be dead) Is there any pro trainer that you can contact there who can actually be with you to advise? |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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We can't get her into any classes until February if we go with the best in the area. So frustrating!
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#16 (permalink) |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 15,535
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For now I would give bones in her crate only. She is resource guarding. I would work with her, using positive reinforcement, that it is ok for the cats to be around when she has something really good. So, put her in her crate with the cats in the room. When the cats go by and she doesn't react reward her with something better than her bone (like sliced chicken) and reward the cat too. The idea is that you want her to associate the cats with good things, not bad (as in the food getting taken away, etc.).
Ultimately, as you realize, you have to protect your cats.
__________________
Ruth & the 4 Legged Rescue Gang Rafi the malaroo http://www.dogster.com/dogs/693238 Gio & Varda, the krazy kittens ....In my heart: Cleo Kitty Chama Kai Basu Massie |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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On a side note, she just had a regular interaction with the male cat in which she slowly approached the cat, he meowed, step towards her, and she did an immediate 180 away from the cat. it's only a food aggression and its only food aggression towards the cats.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,950
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Quote:
I would find a class that was half way decent and get her going on basics, socialization, etc. You can take her to the classes that you want in February, but I would do something now to tide you over.
__________________
Misty- Samoyed Mix Tannor- Golden Retriever CGC Robyn- German Shepherd CGC Cats-Thunder, Harley, Miley, Bandit, and Ferah RIP Boo..Black Lab "A dog is the only thing on this earth that loves you more than he loves himself." |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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I had an idea about this tonight. I might try using a mirror by her bowl. Dogs react to mirrors and this removes the possibility of hitting the dog cat relationship. I'll try using the mirror first then I'm going to do the cat food on a plate in neutral territory and dog on a leash trick after that.
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