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Old 02-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hot wire for dogs?

Has any one used a live/hot wire for dogs? I've seen them recommended for diggers or jumpers. I have a little bit different problem and I believe a hot wire would help (can't do a standard e-fence b/c 1) I don't want to deal with collars and 2) I can't have a "shock zone" it's got to be touch = shock or not). I've been looking at a few available locally but what I cannot find out is whether they will work if the dog is standing on concrete.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes it'll work. My husband says "as long as the fence that you're attaching it to is grounded well, it'll work". The device that sends electric to the fence has to be grounded and so does the fence you're attaching it to, with those little plastic things.

So the concrete can't work unless it's wet. But if the dog can touch the main fence while touching the hotwire (about 6-8" from the fence) it ought to work.

Get a solar one. That way if the electricity goes out, it'll still be "hot".

We use one for our dogs and they don't dig out any longer
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmm, not sure it will work then. I was going to run it close to the ground in front of the fence (they aren't supposed to be touching this fence at all) but the fence crosses concrete.

Basically the long story is that we moved into our house almost a year ago and the yard was already fenced with 6' wood privacy fence. However along the side there is 4' chain link and then a chain link gate that crosses the driveway. The gate is farther back than the side door and there is no rear door b/c of how our house is laid out. I wanted to be able to open the side door so the dogs have direct access to the yard, without having to grab collars and lead dogs one-by-one into the fenced area. I also didn't want to extend the fence and move the gate forward until I was sure about this decision. We have a one stall detached garage and living in MI I didn't want to immediately rule out the possibility of parking in a garage for the first time in my life. However I've decided that I'm OK parking in the driveway ahead of the side door, I'd rather brush snow off the van than not have a totally secure yard or have to constantly open/close the gate to drive into the garage. Plus the garage is so narrow my van won't fit with our yard stuff. Anyway.... I have sort of a temporary fence extending down the driveway and across. This worked OK until today. It's hard to explain if you haven't seen my fence but basically Pan flipped a panel outward and made a gap just large enough for him and Nikon to escape (my Coke is a digger so he's always on a tie-out even inside the fence). For now I've made it impossible for this to happen again (I added multiple T-posts and permanently attached the temp. fence and also stacked cinder blocks where they pushed it open), but this means I can't easily open the temp. fence which I do on occasion like when I'm putting the trash out front and such.

Just yesterday my dad and I were talking about completing the fencing project. Unfortunately that conversation happened a bit too late since two dogs got out today. I've already made inquiries to some local fencing contractors and hope to get someone out for a quote ASAP. I'm also working on a new fencing permit for the city Planning Department. But in the mean time, I was thinking one of the cheaper hot wire kits would work to keep all the dogs off the temp. fence. They can't get out now but that's not to say they won't keep testing it. However since the temp. fence crosses the concrete driveway it seems the live wire won't work?
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is probably better than my explanation:


The original chain link fence and gate only extent to the corner of the house. To get in/out, I unhook a series of bungee cables that hold the temp. fence to the T-post on the far left, then slide that panel forward and fold the fence open in a zig-zag. Pan somehow got that corner pushed so that they could squeeze out between the last T-post and the siding on the house.

If it takes a while to get the new fence extension and proper gate installed, I wanted to run a wire out the bathroom window, under that last piece of siding below the door and above the step, and then across the driveway. As you can see I can't use a normal e-fence there because the shock zone would be WAY too close to the door and that's just mean.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I will have him look @ this and have him reply.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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AND, if anyone has any suggestions for the new fence, post away! I'm thinking 6' chain link (good quality) from the edge of the wooden fence forward (actually it would jog inward a bit so it's basically along the edge of my driveway, since the dogs have too much fun digging on that narrow strip of grass inside the current 4' chain link). Then a nice 6' chain link gate across the driveway meeting up with the house, in about the same spot or maybe a few feet farther forward.

According to the Planning Department I can use 6' chain link for this project (if it passes in front of the front corner of my house, is within 10' of the sidewalk, or a corner lot I'd have to use 4' or shorter).

The rest of the yard is fully enclosed in 6' privacy fence. We have some digging issues with Coke but I already planning on dropping some chicken wire along the bottom. Once he figures out there's something in the way he gives up.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msvette2u View Post
I will have him look @ this and have him reply.
Thank you! I know a hot wire is kind of a lazy solution but I'm just looking to keep the dogs safely contained until we can get a real fence contractor out. None of them would be psychologically damaged by a few shocks and they'll figure it out quick if I can get it to work.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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if the hot wire for dogs works like the hot wire
for horses it'll work if the fence is touching concrete.
it's the wire that's hot not the fence. the fence isn't the
conductor.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It works the same but isn't as strong. In order for it to work you have to be standing on the right material. I don't know exactly how electricity works. The packages recommend "moist soil" but don't offer anything in the way of what WONT work other than touching it yourself wearing rubber soled shoes.

PS. I suppose I could wet the concrete, often it's already wet and I'd rather dump a bucket of water out the door than having to use something like an e-collar with three different collars. But not sure if just "wet" is enough or standing water?
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi this is Jeff--
A temporary quick fix is is get some longer T-posts. It looks like the fencing or X-pen panels are about 4 1/2 ft tall. The T-posts need to extend above the upper most end of the panels about 12 inches or more. This way you can attach the t-post insulators to them 3 or 4 inches above the panels and at the top end of each post. You could put some a nose height along the side of the panels but you will need to make sure that they are off set inside the fence line at least 6 inches so that they don't short out in the fence. Of course the hot wire goes between the posts horizontally.
About grounding the fence----the hot wire Zapper has to be connected to grounding rods of the system to work. Ok. Now to insure that the system is always hot make sure that the fence line is also connected to the grounding circuit. The problem is the panels are not directly tied together other than with the hinge tubes between each panel. You will need to directly tie each panel together with wire to complete the fence circuit and to the hurricane fence too. if you have any questions feel free to ask.
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