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Old 01-21-2012, 11:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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It's either not tight enough or it's set too high (or both I guess). It doesn't *have* to sit right under the dog's ears. Sometimes I put mine there for specific things but it rarely stays *that* high all the time.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Improper leashing. Are you using a shorter working lead and at the head of the dog using the prong to work corrections or are you trailing behind your dog using the prong to slow the dog and help with pulling without training?
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info. It truly is tight and initially positioned just behind the ears. I'm wondering about trying the next size smaller prong. I hate to throw $35 or more to find out that isn't better, though. Maybe I can ask to borrow one at Obedience Class for part of the class.

GermanShepherds6800, short lead at my side.

Liesje, ok, so you don't get too bothered if it doesn't stay where intially placed? Do you worry about it correcting at the wrong spot of the neck.. ie, trachea? I'm incredibly paranoid about that. (Had a dog 20+ yrs ago that we were taught to use chokers with. I think I hurt that dog's trachea in that training, he almost made strange grunty noises in his later life.. I contribute to my ignorance with that choker.)

Thanks for the idea of putting his flat collar underneath, that could help.
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liesje View Post
It doesn't *have* to sit right under the dog's ears.

Exactly! That position should be used only for extreme situations. About mid-neck is just right
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think too much emphasis is placed on trying to keep the collar high up under the chin and behind the ears, and having the collars too tight while being overly concerned about them being too loose.

The collar can be quite loose within reason, the only thing that will keep the collar in the top half of the neck is the angle of the lead. There's no need to garrote the dog or have the collar so ridiculously tight the martingale simply won't work, or is permanently taut and correcting the dog.

I agree entirely with GermanShepherds6800 that improper leashing is a factor. A hand loop or short lead means you can keep your hand and the lead above the head or easily alter the angle of the lead to prevent the collar slipping back. In the case of collars that are being put over the head (sheesh!!) there won't be much adjustment in the sizing and inevitably having a loose collar it's up to the handler to compensate for the equipment.

I've personally used a 22" collar with a 17" neck and not had the collar keep slipping down by using a hand loop and paying attention to what the lead and collar are doing. It just takes a change in technique and a little practice.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuvMyDog_Worldwide View Post
I've personally used a 22" collar with a 17" neck and not had the collar keep slipping down by using a hand loop and paying attention to what the lead and collar are doing. It just takes a change in technique and a little practice.
And a lag in correction time which could be a big problem.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregK View Post
Exactly! That position should be used only for extreme situations. About mid-neck is just right .
I'm glad to hear this. When reading about proper fitting, it is said, time and time and time again that it must be HIGH.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuvMyDog_Worldwide View Post
I think too much emphasis is placed on trying to keep the collar high up under the chin and behind the ears, and having the collars too tight while being overly concerned about them being too loose.

The collar can be quite loose within reason, the only thing that will keep the collar in the top half of the neck is the angle of the lead. There's no need to garrote the dog or have the collar so ridiculously tight the martingale simply won't work, or is permanently taut and correcting the dog.

I agree entirely with GermanShepherds6800 that improper leashing is a factor. A hand loop or short lead means you can keep your hand and the lead above the head or easily alter the angle of the lead to prevent the collar slipping back. In the case of collars that are being put over the head (sheesh!!) there won't be much adjustment in the sizing and inevitably having a loose collar it's up to the handler to compensate for the equipment.

I've personally used a 22" collar with a 17" neck and not had the collar keep slipping down by using a hand loop and paying attention to what the lead and collar are doing. It just takes a change in technique and a little practice.
A trainer at my last class, (not our instructor, but another trainer in the facility) dropped in on class one day with her dog, prong skyhigh, and mentioned mine was too low and I should remove a prong and get it higher. But your statement above is really making me rethink this. I seriously think it is too tight.

I'll also be working on being much more aware of the other things mentioned.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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not a big fan of some of his stuff, but this does show how to fit the prong properly.
Leerburg | How to fit a Prong Collar
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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This in particular is the one I disagree with. There is no way the collar should be that tight. It's pointless even having a martingale on the collar if that's how it's being fitted. He does make a point of showing when the collar is too low down the neck and I agree the placement is too low when walking, but it's an issue which can be addressed with the lead.

Too many people default to this particular picture for fitting, it's simply the view of one trainer and it doesn't make it right. The pressure from the prongs has to come off, otherwise there's no correction. With the exception of Ed and his dominant collar I've never seen a trainer anywhere fit their slip collars or leads that tight either. I'd wonder how tight he fits a flat collar........?
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