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#21 (permalink) | |
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Master Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Houston Pearland
Posts: 750
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Quote:
Hard wood floors need MANY special treatments. You have to be careful with all the scratches and they are GLUED in place. With laminate flooring they just float it above your sub floor. If you have to fix something you dont have to break all the boards up, you just remove them to fix and then replace. Laminate can be graded to keep scratches at bay. Oh and the cost!! Lets not forget that it costs almost 10 times more than laminate! I just dont get it. I just can not see the appeal to hard wood. I have small children and am getting a puppy. Active life and hard wood just dont mix imo.
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LuLu 09-14-12
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#22 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,295
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Someone should tell the floors back east, that are several hundred years old, (I lived in a house that dated from 1792 and those floors are still there) that active life and hard wood just don't mix.
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~Elrond's Rocket of Rivendell, aka The RocketDog 06/15/11 hiker and runner extraordinaire http://redheadsrocketsandramblings.blogspot.com/ |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 2,324
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Mine are 100 years old except for the spots we replaced. They take a beating but can be sanded down and refinished. The laminate do not take that kind of beating. Here is what the floor looked like when we uncovered it.
Before ![]() and after
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#25 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,295
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Also, they often used Tung Oil, which is what I used on mine. It's a waterproof oil that becomes part of the wood over time. And you don't have to do anything in terms of refinishing, you can just reapply right over the top.
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~Elrond's Rocket of Rivendell, aka The RocketDog 06/15/11 hiker and runner extraordinaire http://redheadsrocketsandramblings.blogspot.com/ |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,295
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You can apply it over stain but not over other finishes--it actually soaks into the wood so you would have adhesion problems if there's another finish already present. It's also difficult to get if your state has VOC laws-- there are several Tung oil mixes on the market though, Waterlox being very well-known one. I prefer the 100% Tung oil though. It was smelly for sure, but very easy to apply once you got the hang of it, and it is waterproof enough that the Chinese used it 1000 years ago to waterproof their ships.
![]() I should clarify "easy": I applied four coats of tung oil to my floors. I mopped it on with a lambswool applicator, let dry between each coat for a couple of days and fine sanded each coat and then wiped off the grit before I reapplied the next coat-- but they're spectacular.
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~Elrond's Rocket of Rivendell, aka The RocketDog 06/15/11 hiker and runner extraordinaire http://redheadsrocketsandramblings.blogspot.com/ Last edited by RocketDog; 11-09-2012 at 01:14 AM. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,295
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This is actually a pretty decent description: http://http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wik..._oil#section_2
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~Elrond's Rocket of Rivendell, aka The RocketDog 06/15/11 hiker and runner extraordinaire http://redheadsrocketsandramblings.blogspot.com/ |
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#30 (permalink) | |
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Knighted Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 2,324
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