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- - food aggression (http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/aggression-good-bad-ugly/442945-food-aggression.html)
Hi, I'm looking for ways to stop food agression. I have a 6 month old german Shepard pup. We rescued him at 41/2 months. A day after bringing him home. He came down with parvo. When we got him back he was very under weight and starved. He was on a diet of chicken and rice for a week. Now he is crazy over people food. So here's the problem he doesn't have agression with his normal dog food but if he gets people food(we do not give him people food) he gets aggressive towards my other dog and the kids if they try and take it away, not so much me and my husband tho. Today he ate a hole through my 9 year Olds back pack to get to a bag of popcorn and when she tried to take the backpack from him he growled and nipped at her hand leaving marks. Please help we have been through so much with this pup and would hate to have to get rid of him over this.
No people food. When he gets his own food, he eats in a crate. When you're having meals, he's in his crate.
He's young and you can fix this. No table food.
Also watch out when you bring home groceries. My food assertive male when he was about one decided the fridge was his. He went after my older female a couple times for being around the fridge while I was putting food in it. No more, not allowed near the fridge - he'd either go in the crate or outside.
That's dangerous. Do consult a behaviorist.
Besides what SunCzarina says, because there will always be potential for him to find food no matter where you are, I would teach him impulse control around food, start slow with low value food cheerios, his kibble etc.. I dont know where you are in terms of training, but teaching him leave it will help. Rather than completely cut out all human food, phase it out gradually. If you see he has some high value food or toy dont take it from him, go toward him and drop a piece of food. Build his trust. Play exchange games.
While it is not the same thing, when our puppy was pushy about food and big enough to push himself in I would ask for a settle and throw him treats as we eat. Gradually increased the time between the treats, and now he is comfortable lying down near us without begging for food as we eat.
But do consult a behaviorist. They will tell you what is best for your situation.
Here is what Patricia McConnell says :
TREATMENT FOR INTERSPECIFIC GUARDING: I’m going to talk here about resource guarding between dogs and people. Treating it between two dogs uses the same basic principles, but requires enough alterations in technique to deserve its own article. That said, the most effective technique for stopping a dog from guarding resources from human intervention is to change your dog’s internal response to anothers attempt to possess their “treasure.” That is why you are best off using Desensitizing and Classical Conditioning to teach your dog to love it when you approach and reach toward an object. In other words, in this case you are not training your dog to respond to a cue, but conditioning an internal response to someone approaching something that they cherish.
Before going any further, stop here an contact a behaviorist or progressive trainer who understands how to use classical conditioning if your dog has ever put you at risk of being seriously injured. You’d call an electrician if you thought your wiring was unsafe in your house, wouldn’t you? Meanwhile, or if your dog is threatening but not dangerous, follow the steps outlined below.
STEP ONE: Be an armchair ethologist by thoughtfully and specifically writing down what objects your dog guards, what your dog does to cause you to say she is guarding, and how close you need to be to see any sign of guarding. Here’s an example:
Objects: Chew bone, stuffed Kong, favorite stuffed toy in the shape of a deranged dinosaur.
Behavior & Distance: My dog first stops chewing or eating, and stands motionless if I get within 4-5 feet of her while she is chewing on her Kong. If I move to within 2-3 feet, her body tenses and her mouth closes. If I walk right up to her and reach toward the object, she will growl.
STEP TWO: Find something your dog likes even better than what she guards. Usually it will be some form of meat, but every dog is different. Be sure to experiment–every trainer or behaviorist has seen X,000 numbers of people who swear their dog “doesn’t care about food” until we get out our super stash of cooked chicken or freeze-dried liver and get their dog turning somersaults for it. Food is ideal because you can have it on hand and chop it up into pieces that allow you to create lots of reinforcement.
STEP THREE: Stocked with lots of treats, set up a situation in which your dog would guard. In the example above, give your dog a stuffed Kong, leave the room and re-enter with a handful of cooked chicken. Stop WELL BEFORE you would predict a reaction (any reaction) from your dog. In the example above, that would be at about 7-8 feet away. Toss a piece of chicken so that it lands right beside your dog’s mouth. (If you are like me, and flunked softball in school, just toss another one if you miss.). Wait for your dog to eat it up, and toss another piece. Repeat once or twice, then leave the room. If your dog leaves the Kong and comes over to you for more, look up at the ceiling and ignore her. You want her to learn that food only comes out of the sky if she is eating and you are standing nearby.
STEP FOUR: After a few sessions of this, start where you began in the last session, but don’t toss any food until you walk forward one step closer, no more. Toss chicken and withdraw one step. Walk forward one forward again, toss a treat and then WALK AWAY. You want your dog to think “NO! Don’t walk away!!” If, however, your dog reacts by stiffening, make a mental note to start farther back or to only approach in half steps. You can either stop there, or leave the room and re-enter it, repeating Step Four one or two times.
STEP FIVE: Gradually, ever so gradually, decrease the distance between you and your dog. Walk to within 5 feet in one session, then 4 in the next. Go back to just 5 feet for 2 sessions, then go to 4 and possibly 3 IF the dog is responding well. “Responding well” means that your dog is switching from “Oh No! She’s going to take my bone away” to “Goody! Here she comes! Whenever I have a chew bone and she comes close to it I get something better! How cool is that????” That means your dog’s body is loose and not stiff. She does not start chewing frantically as you approach. Her mouth is open and she looks as if she is happily anticipating your approach.
What if she leaves the bone and come to me? Well, good girl Fidette, that means you’ve stopped guarding the bone in search of something better. Again, simply ignore her and wait for her to return to her bone. It might take awhile for some dogs, but if you look away (this part is important) she will eventually give up and go back to her Kong or dinner bowl.
STEP SIX: Once you can approach your dog and stand right beside her, begin skipping the food toss until you are a few strides away, and start classically conditioning a reach toward the object. Keep in mind that you are working on re-wiring her brain so that she forms a new association between your actions and how she feels about them. Walking toward her is a different action than reaching toward her, so you need to think of it as a different category. (Understanding the distinction between each action you make is perhaps the most important aspect of being able to use classical conditioning to turn around a behavior, and it is not something we do naturally without training ourselves to be expert observers and thoughtful analysts of behavior.) First, bend toward the food or toy, drop a treat and then straighten up. Do this several times, or as often as necessary for your dog to remain relaxed. Remember: your dog drives the system here, not an idea you have in your head for how long this should take. Gradually move your arm and hand closer and closer to the food or object, eventually taking it away and giving your dog something wonderful in return. I once convinced a head-strong and very RG’y dog to give me the dead bird she had in her mouth, and when she did, I gave it back to her. The people watching were appalled, but that’s what she wanted more than anything in the world, and she trusted me ever after.
STEP SEVEN: Keep it up. Forever. Not every day, or even every week, but at least every month or so you should remind your dog why it is in his or her best interests to let you take anything away.
PREVENTION: That’s easy–just follow the step above, but you don’t have to go as slowly as you would if you were trying to turn around an established behavior. Willie and Tootsie both love it when I pick up their bowls, because it means they are getting something even better. Neither have ever even suggested a modicum of RG’g, which is exactly why I continue to remind them how fun it is to let me take things away from them!
OPERANT CONDITIONING?: One last comment–there is a role for operant conditioning here, which is to teach dogs to “Leave It” or “Drop It” (those are different in the mind of a dog I suspect: in one case the dog is focused on something, in another he or she has it in his or her mouth, and possession is the law in canid society.)
- See more at: Resource Guarding: Treatment and Prevention
I have learned from this forum and much smarter folks than myself in here....that good things come from the hand.
If I had a FA dog....I would revisit my initial indoctrination regarding food and treats. Yes, I understand you rescued this dog ( good for you ! ) and perhaps there is some extra baggage creating this situation....unknown to you.
I'd start from square one since he is only 6 months and this uphill battle is not set in stone. The hand that feeds him is to be respected not feared....and whatever the competition is, for acting in such a strong right of ownership manner by your dog need/will not exist under the " new management".
I'd start small....doing good gets a reward..praise and some food from your hand...and taking it "nice" is the quickest way to get more...and expand on it....slowly but surely.
Thanks everyone for the advice! I've learned so much from this site. Ready to start retraining this dog a little differently.
Look at NILIF - nothing in life is free. I think you may just have a boss dog. I have a boss dog - Otto. Otto has to be treated differently than Venus. She's very easy going, just wants to do the right thing, learn her job and everyone to be happy.
I'm not more harsh with Otto, just more stern. More drill sargent for Otto and goodtimes friend for Venus. If I'm eating, he'll come boss over next to my chair look at me like hey gimme some. Stick his nose in my plate no matter how many times over the last 6 years I've not given him some. I look at him and say 'it's MINE' firmly.
Venus will look at me cute, wiggle her butt and raise a paw to say Please. She's not pushy like the boss dog. She's not out to challenge him and she doesn't understand why I'm so strict with them around the kids and food. Even the water dish - it's a double - he might grumble at her so she backs out of the room. She knows to wait for him to finish. He's the boss.
Otto's not going to try anything on my watch but there were incidents over food with my last female. They once tried to kill eachother over an empty chicken nugget box.
It's a lifelong management issue and it sucks but I deal with it. Otto knows he's not allowed in the room when my kids are eating. He's allowed in the kitchen for water but if I'm cooking, he's not allowed to hang out with me. He knows Momma's a brick when it comes to rules for him. It's kinda funny but the 15 month old is better about rules than he is - he's almost 6 and he'll try to push but I just push back because he's pushy. He's the boss dog.
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