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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
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I've been working on the resource aggression issue with my now 9 m/o for the past couple of months and I still haven't really been able to completely resolve the issue.
I've tried the whole NILF approach and the "trade-this-for that" approach and other popular suggestions on the forum. He's gotten better, particularly with food, but with toys and playing, I still have problems. If he gets something, whether it be a toy, or something that belongs to me (like my expensive textbooks) and I try to take it from him, he will growl and bite me pretty hard. It's just plain painful. I've actually started wearing working gloves while playing with him because he can suddenly get aggressive. I'm not one to get physical with my dog to prove dominance, but honestly, if he's going to get all physical and nothing else will work, then I'll just have to do the same so he'll get the message of who's boss. But in the meanwhile, any other ideas I might try?
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The misery of keeping a dog is his dying so soon. But, to be sure, if he lived for fifty years and then died, what would become of me? - Sir Walter Scott |
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#4 (permalink) |
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The Agility Rocks! Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bushkill, PA (The Poconos!)
Posts: 22,198
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I can't play near my Bretta's mouth or I WILL get bit. For sure.
It's play for her. It's blood for me. So I only play tug with her or with toys with long ropes/things to pull. What does your dog class instructor think is going on? How is your dog in class? Fact is there is a HUGE difference (to the dog) in real agression and play. But both may look and sound EXACTLY the same to a person until we know better. They can growl. They can snarl. They can bite. There can be blood. And, for the dog, it's still PLAY. Real aggression is completely different and how it's managed must be COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. Sadly, this is best addressed when our pups first hit the house and can be more difficult as they get bigger. This is what you should have been doing. Notice the age of the puppy and length of the toy!
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MACH2 Bretta Lee Wildhaus CGC TC TQX Glory B Wildhaus NA, NJ, NF + LOL (still) "Always forgive your enemies; nothing annoys them so much." - Oscar Wilde |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Crowned Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 5,177
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Dealing with aggression and resource guarding can be difficult. You can apply everything you read over the internet to your training, but sometimes it's the trainer (you). Not trying to call you a bad trainer, but sometimes you just need an outside sources opinion on the situation.
My advice would be to start looking around for trainers with experience with dealing with this type of behavior in your price range and start saving up. I think that would do the most good when dealing with these issues.
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Paul |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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The Agility Rocks! Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bushkill, PA (The Poconos!)
Posts: 22,198
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Quote:
Plus if your dog is then registered as a dangerous dog with all that entails (and since loss of life is fairly dire as far as 'expense' goes for a dog). Talk to your breeder. I'm sure you got your dog from a responsible breeder and they may have hints/tips to help.
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MACH2 Bretta Lee Wildhaus CGC TC TQX Glory B Wildhaus NA, NJ, NF + LOL (still) "Always forgive your enemies; nothing annoys them so much." - Oscar Wilde |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 1,381
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Most trainers offer free consultations, just call around.
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http://www.secondchanceshepherds.org/index.html "If you don't train them, don't blame them" Zelda(husky), Optimus Prime(doberman),Rogue(BGSD) |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
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Well obviously a trainer of sorts would be the best way to go, but I can't afford that for now. In the meanwhile, I wanted to try some more things myself.
Quote:
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The misery of keeping a dog is his dying so soon. But, to be sure, if he lived for fifty years and then died, what would become of me? - Sir Walter Scott |
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